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Re: Good Protocol For Keeping Water Clean in Boiler
Reddit can be good, but moderation is always a challenge everywhere on the internet. Here we are lucky to have Erin.
the Burnham Independence line seems to not be lasting as long as it once did decades ago and lots of people around here including me would be hesitant to install or recommend one today. I haven't seen a conclusive reason but my favorite theory is that they have changed the boiler castings perhaps to make them better at transferring heat in the name of increased efficiency, and their lifetime has been greatly shortened.
They also make what I think is called a "three-pass" design called the MegaSteam that is highly regarded (but is sold only as an oil-burning boiler). I have no direct experience with either product.
Re: Good Protocol For Keeping Water Clean in Boiler
Yes! Mikey Pipes! I was a little uneasy with his advice on draining once a month to the point the low water shut off activates. He argues it cleans the water and you get a safety check all-in-one. What's the deal with Burnham steam boilers. I've seen people say they were trash on the message boards. Yet, I have also seen people say they were the best residential boilers?! Go figure. Do they make a great ones and crap ones depending on the model? Again… anyone can post anything. Hard to discern good from bad. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
Re: Good Protocol For Keeping Water Clean in Boiler
You saw Mikey Pipes. He is not too bad but one strong disagreement I have with him is that he is constantly draining all the water out of boilers and replacing it. He sees muddy water as the enemy without understanding that he is creating that enemy.
I currently believe that the idea that you can remove the damage of fresh water in a boiler by boiling the water quickly after adding it, is a myth.
Of course you are going to boil all the new water in a boiler, it is a boiler. In fact I would say that almost all the new water added to a boiler is pretty much immediately boiled (think about an auto-feed—it activates when a boiler is getting a call for heat and so it gets boiled right away).
But regardless of when that fresh water is boiled, the oxygen within it is released into the boiler cavity and I think the damage is done. The evidence of this is shown by production of rusty water.
That's why for all of last year as described in the video above I pre-boiled all my replacement water or used distilled water (along with my increased pH level). The video is there for all to judge.
Re: Good Protocol For Keeping Water Clean in Boiler
I heard about the dirty water part from a YouTuber. He runs a plumbing and HVAC business. He does the occasional informational video. I think his name was Tony (or Tommy) Pipes?? I've also heard that the heating process actually "burns away" the oxygen in the water. I actually read that on this message board. The wonderful thing about the internet is anyone can post and give info. The worst part of the internet is that anyone can post and give info :) Thank you for the replies.
Re: Good Protocol For Keeping Water Clean in Boiler
The best advice for residential boilers is to put in as little water as possible. Float type low water cutoffs do need to be blown down perhaps twice a month to once a week. Ideally, other than that, you add no water at all. That said, most systems do require a little makeup water now and then — perhaps a gallon a month.
There is something to be said for blowing down the boiler itself from the mud leg/bottom drains once a year, to get any accumulated goop out — but if you are not adding much water, there won't be all that much (though it may be remarkably hard!).
Some people advocate adding a small amount of buffer to drive the pH up into the alkaline range; others don't feel it is necessary.
That said on an initial install or if significant work has been done on piping, it is absolutely necessary to thoroughly skim the boiler to get rid of any oil. This is time consuming, but critical. It doesn't use much water, though.
Re: Good Protocol For Keeping Water Clean in Boiler
It's a bit of a catch-22
Normally you'd have to constantly be draining and replacing the muddy water, but that action itself creates more muddy water.
the solution is to use a boiler treatment product such as 8-Way to raise the pH of your boiler water to around 10. This will dramatically DRAMATICALLY reduce corrosion and creation of brown water. Use less than the product instructions recommend, like 1/4 of what they call for.
Then drain as little as possible as rarely as possible. You are posting in Strictly Steam so I am assuming this is a steam boiler. So you must also stay vigilant about any steam or liquid water leaks in your system. You should aim for a maximum of like 1 gallon of replacement water every month during the heating season.
Here is my video about this topic:
Finally I'm not sure about your statement that clean water is easier to boil. Is this just your belief or are there facts behind it?
Re: Wiring Weil-McLain AquaPlus to a Taco SR503-5
No, the end switch is what brings the boiler on.
You wire the aquastat to the priority zone terminals “R & W”.
“AC1 & AC2” go to the “24V” terminals.
Ironman
Re: My steam boiler water got a little contaminated, so what can we learn?
you need to pour what you drained off in to a separation funnel:
Re: Water hammer - novice question
watch @ethicalpaul 's video. your boiler is missing the header to do the separation that his boiler has
Re: Replacing draft regulator or draft control on a residential fuel oil boiler
Einstein once said: “It is the art of the teacher to make the difficult appear easy, but not the easy appear difficult.”
@captainco said: Ed you are brilliant when it comes to mechanical issues but quite unskilled with combustion issues.
Thanks for the complement (I think) and I agree that I may not know as much as you about combustion. That is why I defer to you and Bob at times when I am not sure of certain points of combustion. But I believe that I am more skilled than the average technician when it comes to all things combustion. I posed the question after you contradicted manufacturers directions regarding my comment about the barometric location. Knowing your background and that you have performed more experimentation and field studies that “Testing in the field taught me that manufacturers are clueless when it comes to actual field operation“ is common. I was looking for your insight. There was no insult intended by my questioning your comment. I was just interested in learning something that I might not have direct knowledge of that you do have direct knowledge of. Thanks for the clarification. I will edit my previous comment regarding the recommended redesign.


