The WallClick here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out.
It's a great way to thank those who helped you.
If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out.
It's a great way to thank those who helped you.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Best Of
Re: Sorry, but the "find a contractor in your area" button didn't work for me...
My plumbing and heating company is a smaller business currently with 18 guys and I can't afford any downtime at all. I've been advertising on HeatingHelp.com for many many years because it pays back several times over. It always has. I can't say that about any other advertising media I've ever tried.
Re: Whole House Fans
junk...
Properly insulate and vent the attic. All you'll do is pull in outdoor pollutants, making your house dirty and dusty.
But the serious consideration is putting your house in a negative draft situation, which will affect/downdraft other appliances and fireplaces, which is bad and dangerous.
I had a call from a person with a whole house fan, and an oil fired boiler with domestic coil.
Their boiler was having nuisance lockouts and there was soot around the boiler in the basement, and the other companies couldn't figure it out/fix it.
Before I even went into the basement I saw the louvers in the ceiling. The basement door swung into the basement, and with the fan running would pull itself shut at 3".
Cleaned the boiler, disconnected the fan, never a problem again.
If that was gas or a gas water heater, they could've been killed by CO
The big problem is in the shoulder seasons, you can get cool enough to run heat, but early morning sun beating on the roof triggers the attic fan, so both run. And a domestic call can happen at any outdoor temperature.
Properly insulate and vent the attic. All you'll do is pull in outdoor pollutants, making your house dirty and dusty.
But the serious consideration is putting your house in a negative draft situation, which will affect/downdraft other appliances and fireplaces, which is bad and dangerous.
I had a call from a person with a whole house fan, and an oil fired boiler with domestic coil.
Their boiler was having nuisance lockouts and there was soot around the boiler in the basement, and the other companies couldn't figure it out/fix it.
Before I even went into the basement I saw the louvers in the ceiling. The basement door swung into the basement, and with the fan running would pull itself shut at 3".
Cleaned the boiler, disconnected the fan, never a problem again.
If that was gas or a gas water heater, they could've been killed by CO
The big problem is in the shoulder seasons, you can get cool enough to run heat, but early morning sun beating on the roof triggers the attic fan, so both run. And a domestic call can happen at any outdoor temperature.
Re: Wetstock - Tickets Now Available!
Johnny White of Taco will be joining us!
And a big Thank You to our event sponsors:
And a big Thank You to our event sponsors:
20 Years Later
I went back to a job we did in 1999. The house was recently sold and the new owner wanted maintenance and repair work done.
This was one of my first “big” projects. It is approximately 22k sq ft.
Dan Holohan walked this job while it was still under construction and wrote a column about it.
My techs have worked here over the years but it had been many years since I had been on site. It was interesting to go back into time and review the job and see what I would do differently if given a second chance.
This was one of my first “big” projects. It is approximately 22k sq ft.
Dan Holohan walked this job while it was still under construction and wrote a column about it.
My techs have worked here over the years but it had been many years since I had been on site. It was interesting to go back into time and review the job and see what I would do differently if given a second chance.
Re: Replacing old cast iron boiler with - Bosch SSB, Navien, Lochinvar?
I may not be a pro at this but you're not making any sense at allThen have a pro come over and design it.
I know you're not getting the answer you want, but you are getting the correct answers.
--or--
Don't listen to the experts and you may have to come on here and ask the same people how to fix what you installed that doesn't work as you hoped..
Re: HTP Hot plastic odors
Hello, First to your question of odor; I'd be contacting HTP and asking them what's up and how to fix it. My experience is that they do care about how their equipment is behaving and will work with you to make it right.
To your question of why 118F is dangerous; ASHRAE recommends 140F for DHW last I knew. Legionella specifically needs 131F to be ever so slowly killed off. There are other bacteria that are resistant to both heat and chlorination, so turning the volume of the tank daily is good, as is right sizing the piping so you get the pipe scrubbed by the flowing water, preventing bio-film development. Make sure there are no dead legs as well.
If you do set the heater to something over 130F, yes it will go out of condensing mode, but only for a bit, as most of the heating will still be done in condensing mode. As an example, if your ground water temp is 50, and you're heating to 140, eighty degree rise is done in condensing mode while only ten degree rise is not in condensing mode. It seems a small energy price to pay to insure no bugs.
Yours, Larry
To your question of why 118F is dangerous; ASHRAE recommends 140F for DHW last I knew. Legionella specifically needs 131F to be ever so slowly killed off. There are other bacteria that are resistant to both heat and chlorination, so turning the volume of the tank daily is good, as is right sizing the piping so you get the pipe scrubbed by the flowing water, preventing bio-film development. Make sure there are no dead legs as well.
If you do set the heater to something over 130F, yes it will go out of condensing mode, but only for a bit, as most of the heating will still be done in condensing mode. As an example, if your ground water temp is 50, and you're heating to 140, eighty degree rise is done in condensing mode while only ten degree rise is not in condensing mode. It seems a small energy price to pay to insure no bugs.
Yours, Larry
Re: Well that could have been worse
But, if you’re not careful, stupid will fix you? 
Yours, Larry
Yours, Larry
Re: Dan's Still Got It....
He really does still have it. I see him all the time and for a moment there I forgot what he really does for this industry and for me. He's the best speaker I've ever seen. He grabbed my students' attention at GSMT recently and it was so much fun for me to watch happen. I saw old school enthusiasm in the class's eyes like I hadn't seen in a while. And all he was talking about was the building itself at that point. Yeah. He's the guy alright.
Re: The things I see
> @hot_rod said:
> It's to induce turbulent flow conditions.
If it's a flathead screwdriver, you should be able to turn for adjustment
> It's to induce turbulent flow conditions.
If it's a flathead screwdriver, you should be able to turn for adjustment
