Best Of
Re: Burnham 1 Series Boiler Manual
IIRC the 1 series was a standard type of 3-pass "all-fuel" boiler which could be fired with coal, oil or gas. The actual manual might be hard to find, but you can find rating information for pretty much any Burnham made before 1959 here:
and from 1959-1980s, go here:
These are posted in the site's Heating Museum. For a complete listing of Museum categories, go here:
Re: Honeywell V8043 hard to activating when connected to Nest
When using only two wires to a thermostat you may connect the R on the thermostat to the zone valve and the W on the thermostat to the Transformer. This will work fine for many years because there are only the two wires.
This will not work when you introduce the Common wire. R on the transformer MUST be connected to R on the thermostat, W on the thermostat MUST be connected to the zone valve motor and The other zone valve motor wire MUST be connected to C on the transformer.
Aree you using the V8043E (Yellow wires) or the V8043F (Screw terminals TH TR)
Double check your wiring
Re: Wiring a CK-63 Field Controller to a Centennial / Williamson Oil Furnace Model CHB-105-DD-S2
Thank you Ed. I wired everything exactly how you suggested and it works perfect now. You are awesome!!!
bento
Re: Questions regarding Two pipes Steam in 7 floors building in Argentina
Your radiator looks like it may be piped like radiator 12/61 not radiator 6/61 as you indicated. If I am correct, I do not see a problem with capping off the supply and the return.
On the other hand, the supply pipe for radiator 6/61 could only be capped off above the tee shown in the drawing. If you were to cap off the entire horizontal pipe, you would not allow steam to reach radiator 7/46.
In other words, you do not want to cap off a shared steam supply or a shared steam return.
Re: Questions regarding Two pipes Steam in 7 floors building in Argentina
and the vents on the roof are fine — in fact, tall risers like that should be vented. The fact that you can see vapour from them from time to time probably means that they aren't working properly, however — and suggests that the system pressure is higher than it needs to be. Neither of those things are your problem, though!
Re: Unknown Burnham Boiler
That's the old Burnham Series 4. It was made roughly from the 1970s through the 1990s. The only thing I can find on it quickly is this brochure, which covers several different model series:
Re: repairing a neglected chimney, flue, thimble, liner, and leaks
So you have a CMU block chimney that was improperly built on day one, improperly modified, had two combustion appliances improperly connected, improperly maintained, improperly repaired and you want to stick a Band-Aid on it? Sorry to break the news but this is waaaay beyond resuscitation. An interior chimney must be built to NFPA 211, which requires a 2" clearance to combustibles, firestopped, constructed of 4" solid masonry units and not hollow block, use a medium duty non-water soluble calcium aluminate refractory cement mixture btw flue tiles that are not eroded, deteriorated or otherwise damaged or not properly stacked one upon the other. A chimney liner is listed ONLY if there is an intact 4" wythe wall. Half this chimney is gone from the inside. The effective flue area of that 8"x8" flue is basically a 6" round or about 28 square inches. a 9" circle has an area of 63.62" square. That exterior chimney portion was so rotten they had to glue it together with Ordinary Portland Cement (OPC)-based mortar as stucco. FYI, OPC mortar and stucco tend to trap water exacerbating the erosion of the masonry as well as rotting wood-based products in contact. The water causes the soluble salts deposited over the years of acidic flue gases to migrate towards the outer wall of the chimney. Here, the efflorescence attracts water like a magnet which breaks down the masonry. The alkaline OPC mortar is converted into sand and salt, which is why most of the mortar is visibly missing from the chimney linterior. Even if you reline this chimney, there is insufficient mass to contain it (4" solid masonry units. The thimble is way too close to the combustible mudsill. The chimney connector pipe is corroded and, even new is too thin gauge for that diameter.
On top of all that, you're nursing a dinosaur boiler that is grossly inefficient. Replace the chimney with either a Class A "all-fuel" stainless steel chimney with a 316ss inner liner preferably, or type L vent. You'll have to replace all the rot, reframe/ repair the house, install listed firestops, maintain stated clearances to combustibles, use only components listed for use with that venting system, use 24ga. 316ss rigid chimney liner for your chimney connector with a barometric damper and a spill switch then install a low level CO monitor and you should be good to go.
Re: ADVICE/IDEAS NEEDED! 3 Commercial Hot Water Heaters
I always prefer tanks & boiler. The most tried and true I have ever found was the AO Smith HW 300, 420 or 670 boiler & 2 - 119 gals tanks If 2 100s have done ok for you in past. I get 20 to 30 years at least usually out of this set up. Problem is its standard 80% combustion efficiency so you give up some energy savings for reliability. You also may not be able to go std efficiency depending on your states energy codes. I have found nothing that compares for cost of ownership to the above setup. Larry I'm sure is right about checking water chemistry, changing anodes and flushing regularly to increase tank style gas water heaters life.
My .02 worth.
Re: H/W Coil replacement
one issue with stainless bolts is there is no stretch or give. Tell snap before you notice any movement.
grade 5 bolts are fine.
Never seize is your friend on the gasket and bolts.
After a few weeks tighten the bolts again.
pecmsg
Re: Broken anode rod?
I think the precharge in the well tank should match the system pressure. There needs to be a check valve somewhere on the well feed, not sure of one is built in to the pump, but the line is below the house in the well and will happily syphon back in to the well without one.
mattmia2