Best Of
Re: Weil McClain Evergreen Pro Boiler Line (299, 399, etc) vs Lochinvar Knight XL Opinions
I think this Viessmann training slide is accurate in it's projections.
hot_rod
Re: Antique steam heat boiler/radiators
that appears to be a multi pass boiler, if whoever did the conversion put some baffles in it to slow the products of combustion down it might not be awful.
mattmia2
Re: Antique steam heat boiler/radiators
also you can save some time for everyone by telling them you have a steam boiler with a gas conversion burner on the phone, if they don't know what that is, move on.
mattmia2
Re: Antique steam heat boiler/radiators
I don't know who is around grand rapids and kalamazoo. maybe @GGross knows.
mattmia2
Re: Antique steam heat boiler/radiators
Might try @The Steam Whisperer - he's in Chicagoland but might come that far, and if not he might know someone. Also ISTR @dabrakeman is in or near Detroit.
That boiler was designed to burn coal, and many such boilers were later converted to oil or gas firing. During the fuel-rationing days of World War 2, they were often fitted with baffles to slow down the exhaust gases and extract more heat from them. It would be interesting to see what's inside.
And ISTR @Tim McElwain has the manual for that Republic Gyroscope burner.
Re: Residential system pressure issues
Zone 1 (the low temperature zone) does not need a zone circulator and a mix circulator if you pipe the closely spaced tees directly from the primary loop. Zone 2 and 3 can use the existing tee fittings and flow valves, Just place the circulator on the supply side of the secondary high temperature loops just before the flow valve. then return the zone with the closely spaced tee right next to the supply. A little further down you can make zone 2 in the same configuration. After all the high temperature loops are taken care of, you can then take the low temperature loop off the primary loop.
If the basement radiator is making the basement too hot, you can make a secondary loop for that radiator and use the zone 1 pump that you no longer need for zone 1.
As I said, there are better designs but this is the least amount of piping changes. If you want to start from scratch and make it the best design, I will need to know what is on the small sub loop and if you plan on a Indirect DHW tank in the future.
Re: New Weil-McClain Steam Boiler w Domestic Coil - NOT WORKING - HELP!!
The easiest way out of this is to cut your losses, cut the connection to the coil, and buy a standalone water heater.
You definitely don't want your water level to be above the gauge glass. That is a way to guarantee that water will get thrown up into your mains and radiators "percolator style"
Re: G125BE burner conversion from blue flame to Riello
As long as the boiler is chimney vented, and not sidewall, then the Riello gets set up per the OEM specs for whatever size G115 you have. If the BE is drawing outside combustion air (which it should be, because CO2 is set according to the outdoor combustion air temperature), then you could go with the BF Riello to keep things quiet. The standard 40 series F3 or F5 Riello is much louder than the BE. If an OEM burner flange and air tube aren't being used, then they must be sealed with high temp silicone as its a positive pressure boiler.
When testing, Buderus wants 0 to slightly positive draft over fire, so like I mentioned earlier, some baffles might need to be removed to achieve that, as well as bring up the stack temperature if too low.
HVACNUT
Re: Heat Exchanger vs Full Replacement
please edit to remove prices. we cant' discuss prices here although you could describe the relative costs. i'd just replace the hx if they are going to do it right and the current system works well.
mattmia2
Re: Actuator Replacement
You may find a replacement possible if you could determine the original manufacturers
If you go with all new you’ll find most all new actuators are low current draw, 250 Ma. So you will save some electricial consumption also with an upgrade.
hot_rod