Best Of
Re: Trying To Estimate Heat Pump kWh Usage
There's a lot of ways to skin that cat. I'd start by going to the GBA Detail Library and searching for "Basement."
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/detail-library
Re: R7284B (Oil primary) Setup
The primary control that is set to NO for the thermostat contacts turns that control into a 120 VAC control only. That means when you get both the LIMIT and the L1 powered by 120 VAC, the control will operate and does not need a thermostat input. The Thermostat YES setting is usually used on furnaces that are connected to ductwork. The 24 volt thermostat will call for heat by closing the T T contacts to start the burner. Then the fan limit control will operate the fan and stop the burner if there is a over temperature condition in the furnace.
Since you burner is on a boiler, there must be some boiler temperature measuring control that is connected to the LIMIT terminal of your Primary control. It may be an electronic control that has a B1 terminal that is connected to the primary's LIMIT, or it could be the L8148 or L8124 that has a B1 terminal. There MUST be some control that is measuring the boiler temperature. that control will also be where the thermostat is connected. Can you see where your thermostat is connected to on your boiler? What is the part number or model number of that control? Or better yet, take a photo and post it using the Photo icon next to the smiley face at the bottom to the comment box.
Re: Delay of boiler firing?
Honeywell T9 thermostat
Vesta VRC80 or VRC100 combi gas boiler
Becket AFG oil burner.
Oil boiler is not commanded on by anything affecting the gas boiler. Just runs on an aquastat that keeps the water between 160 and 180. IE not a cold start.
Oil boiler pumps commanded by the thermostat. Either I'll do a 24v signal to a pump control in the connex or 120v off the pump control in the shop.
nate379
Re: KBR 42 3 Bosch Greenstar
cool
if it 'didn't light' at all, it definitely wasn't water quality.
There's another old tale that is the lp co overfills the tank by a smidge, you'll struggle to light off.
Glad its back on
GW
Re: OT: Underground Wiring Options
By the time I'm done planning for "future work", the rough-in generally costs more than if I just did everything I actually wanted.
ratio
Re: KBR 42 3 Bosch Greenstar
2 years is a very short amount of time for a boiler. Look at those pics you posted, you are having these ignition issues after only 2 years. Thats typically when a boiler gets serviced for the first time with no failures. Issues with poor combustion, recirc, water quality etc take time to manifest. usually a couple of years. I would not write off anything at this point, 2 years and it looks like THAT in the heat exchanger tells me that a whole lot of problems have existed since install. I'm still more concerned that there may be a heat exchanger issue given it looks awfully wet in the fire side.
to be clear flue recirc is NOT going to cause an immediate failure, It will slowly destroy everything the flue gas comes into contact with. you would need to sample the intake air with a meter, or look at tell tale signs in the cabinet, the venturi etc to confirm this is happening. wind load in the exhaust can cause issues, and can cause more flue gas recirc.
Poor water quality and too much makeup water will kill your heat exchanger, but it will NOT happen immediately. The amount of time this takes depends on several factors. How hard the makeup water is, the exact chemistry of the boiler fluid, how much makeup water is going in, and even flow rates and supply temp can affect this.
Poor combustion will destroy igniters, door seals, plug the fire side of your heat exchanger etc. it will NOT immediately shut down your boiler
all of these issues need to be looked at, a boiler firing and doing its job on install is not indicative of there being no problems. The majority of boiler issues take a couple years to do their damage. That's where you are now.
GGross
Re: high humidity in my house
Um. Well, follow @EBEBRATT-Ed adivce. But don't confuse velocity with volume. You need to move all the air you can across those coils, because that's where the moisture is removed. And that's volume — velocity times area.
Re: Looking at options, not sure about terminology
issue 25 takes you through the steps to upgrade a legacy high temperature hydronic system to one compatible with A2whp
If any structure improvements have been made over the years, the load has already been reduced
The correct answer comes from some data collection and number crunching
https://www.caleffi.com/sites/default/files/media/external-file/Idronics_25_NA_Lowering%20water%20temperature%20in%20existing%20hydronic%20heating%20systems.pdf
hot_rod
Re: Air in oil lines - potential tank relocation
keep the system 2 pipe. keep the tank where it is. Pressure test the lines, if they leak replace them.
I would be more suspicious of a leak around the burner pump, fittings and oil filter etc.
A pipe in a vacuum like your suction pipe may NOT show a leak because it is pulling oil in.
You need a technician willing to take some time and figure it out. Not easy to find one these days.
This old saying I herd 60 years ago is still true "if the oil can't get from the tank to the burner the burner will not run"
Re: Air in oil lines - potential tank relocation
Is that a flap check valve on the return line?? WHY???
It would be worthwhile to reroute a new single oil line and place it in the ceiling of the basement routing it to the boiler and then have the plumber install a tiger loop air purger in your delivery line near the burner.
I would seriously consider replacing the 2 pipe system with a one pipe system using a tiger loop ultra air purger and a new oil burner.
leonz