Best Of
That Pesky O₂ Molecule – How Oxygen Finds Its Way Back Into a Steam Boiler
In this weeks video, I talk about that pesky oxygen molecule and how, despite your best efforts, keeps finding its way back into the boiler water. The video goes over the damage it does and how to minimize the damage.
Re: LPG btu output in cold weather
at 0* no issue
At -20* the pressures going to drop so best to keep the level high.
pecmsg
Re: new concrete slab with radiant heat that will be polished for finished flooring
I'm not sure what happened with the original post from @RenovationWontEnd. It would be interesting to hear how his project turned out, both the heated slab and his upstairs with stapled up PEX between the joists.
Thanks @Jamie Hall, we will use area rugs where needed. I expect we'll have a few thicker cushioning mats in the kitchen. No additional floor covering is planned unless we end up hating the polished concrete.
The floor is not perfect but the minimal cracking we have is acceptable. We talked about control joints and placed the PEX low enough to saw cut them. After getting a quote to cut and fill the 4' x 4' decorative grid we wanted we decided to take a chance and omit them. Most of the resulting cracks are too small to easily fill and not very noticeable. There are no cracks in the open floor areas, they are all off the corner of doors where the concrete was not able to shrink without cracking. Some will be covered by door mats while the worst are in the garage and mechanical room where it's not a big deal if they are visible. We skipped the fiber mesh to avoid possible issues when polishing the concrete. The biggest negative came from twigs and softer material in the concrete which caused flaws in the polished surface but even that isn't a big problem for us. I'm not sure how that could have been avoided with our local batch plant.
The interior slab shrank up to 1/4" away from the ICF wall on two edges and that movement probably prevented cracking in the middle of the floor around the columns. The thermally broken thresholds for exterior doors seem to be effective when combined with adjacent PEX loops but the rebar across the break probably contributed to the cracking there.
The upstairs areas will be heated with Jaga low-temp panel radiators on a separate ODR circuit. This seemed like a much simpler approach than PEX in between the floor joists and TRVs offer independent control in each room with a single water temperature. The total heat load averages about 5 BTU/sq-ft at the design temp of 8F so the combination of radiant slab and radiators should work with relatively low water temperatures. So far there is no drywall or interior insulation and the entire space stays at 65F with about 85-90F water holding the slab around 70-72F. Keeping 800 gallons of heat storage charged to run the floor only requires one firing per day of the Froling boiler. This should improve once the ERV is operating to reduce infiltration losses. So far I'm very pleased with how well the system is working and especially the power consumption since we're off grid with minimal winter sun for power.
Re: A discussion about wet steam to not hijack anyone's thread
All those people are welcome to and are indeed urged to create their own discussions where their problems can be seen and answered by any number of fine folks on this forum!
Re: How would I drain possible airlock?
Booster is a term that was used by B&G over 75 years ago to sell pumps. It is like saying Jello™ even of your open a package of Royal Gelatin® and add it to the boiling water. You need to remember that over 100 years ago there were no pumps at all. Thrush was the first major pump supplier for the boiler industry. Bell & Gossett needed to tell the plumbers and pipe fitters of the time that their pump was better. You don't need a big pump. All you need is one of our "boosters" to get the job done. That way they sell more pumps than the other guy.
Remember you don't really need a pump back 100 years ago, so how do you get a boiler installer to add a pump. Call it something else and tell them you can use smaller diameter, less expensive pipes to get the heat where you need it.
So get the word "Booster" out of you head. It is an obsolete term and does not mean what you think it means in todays terminology. It is like saying this is a deluxe pump or a special pump or a space age pump, or a red pump. Even if you paint it purple or pink and you still call it a red pump. It does not make the pump any different. The name just sells more pumps.
The biggest thermostat manufacturer in the world lost a big market when the "think tank heads" at Honeywell called the software in their new thermostat "Intelligent recovery". Soon after the NEST thermostat became more popular because it was a "learning thermostat". Same idea inside the thermostat programing, just a different name makes one sell more thermostats than the other.
I better stop babbling on about trade names before I get too carried away.
Re: Can I run a spacepak heat pump system concurrently with my two-pipe steam boiler?
I looked up energy prices in the Detroit. Assuming you're on DTE, I get 22.82c/kWh. Natural gas seems to move a lot with the seasons, but a winter price seems to be around $1.06 per therm.
At those prices, with boiler efficiency of 80% the break-even COP for a heat pump is 5.05. There will be no time in the heating season when you can achieve that.
Re: Ghost flow help please
All temps held at 60 degrees while I was out of town. The g flow seems to have stopped since I swapped the flochecks. I'll continue to monitor.
Re: Newly Commissioned Lochinvar - Blown Gas Valve
@Alan (California Radiant) Forbes, Yes I did see that warning.
It seems quite common these days that the solenoid coils inside gas valves are DC coils and not AC coils like they have been for many decades. Inside that wiring harness connector at the gas valve there is a full wave bridge rectifier on a small circuit board, it converts AC to DC (pulsating DC) or also referred to as RAC (Rectified AC) in this industry. Attempting to measure AC volts on the gas valve side of the connector may give an unexpected reading (multimeter dependent) possibly causing an incorrect diagnosis. Also being a DC coil if the connector is disconnected while energized the collapsing magnetic field can make a high voltage spike that could possibly damage something.
If I saw a lot of these types of issues and I wanted to quickly and accurately diagnose them, I would build a dual load that I could substitute in place of the gas valve to verify the integrity of the cable and the full wave bridge rectifier, and the On-Off switch in some cases. You could also use a spare (verified) gas valve cable to independently power up the gas valve with great caution. I would also familiarize myself with the typical Resistance readings of the coil(s) in the gas valve, since if a coil is open your done. I agree 30 volts should not burn up the coil(s) in two weeks but may shorten the life a bit in the long term.




