Best Of
Re: New boiler: hydrostatic pressure test
huh ?
I have a bad habit of fat fingering the mouse pad on the laptop,
I didn't disagree, I fat fingered it,
rescinded,
@mattmia2 , all,

Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
The RE#MS tee puller is a lot less $$ compared to a T-Drill. This is a T-Drill notch tool, however. Notching a piece of solar absorber tube .
By code it needs to have two dimples on the stub. One gets silver soldered over, the other is for inspection to assure of the depth. This older tool only does one dimple.
i have seen an even simplier tee puller that goes into a cordless drill I think Flynnstone posted it somewhere.

Re: New tank, single top line, do i need a shutoff?
Whatever you do realize that th tank when full will weigh about 2000 pounds. That is 1 ton. You don't want it to tumble over.
Concrete pad is the way to go. I would not use pavers.
If you don't want a pad use solid 8x8x16 cement blocks. Only use solid ones.
Re: Boiler Header?
My idea was as a steel pipe header as I would mount the circulators on them. I could go copper for more $.
I did slide the boiler into a rough position to start being able to visualize the piping and the gas line. I am try to determine where I want to set the indirect hot water tank so it Isa bit of a chess match!
Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
Ever watch a good electrician bent EMT condiut. Once you get the math down it goes pretty quickly. There are some bending software programs also.
I doubt it is as fast as press fittings, but faster than sweat copper.
Yes the outer radius thins and the inner "bunches up", I suppose:)
I know those return bends on the end on HW and refrigeration coils are very thin copper. They run some pretty high pressures.
Bending is addressed in the CDA manuals and I believe is accepted in all the plumbing and mechanical codes.
I have bent some type M, but it tends to pucker up on the inner radius, L works best with plenty of lube.
I have found that old copper tends to split on the bend, for some reason. Like it hardens on the shelf??
There is a rep/ wholesaler in Illinois that made hundred of copper tube radiant ceiling grids. They had a home made copper bending tool. They kept the layout drawings of all the jobs, dating back to the 1950's, till recently so they could furnish repair loops!

Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
@hot_rod in the last picture they're all mechanical tee's looks like, I only once saw a guy doing that it took quite a while. So how is that compered to sweat
This photos really make me think if at all I know what I'm doing, I mean that photo is hydronics at it best
Thank you

Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
Hi, I use REMS for bending and tube expansion. A neat thing about the long bends you get is that the water doesn't know it's changing direction with bends over five pipe diameters, so no real turbulance or friction loss. This helps prevent erosion and can even allow you to use smaller pipe in some cases. Good way to go.
Yours, Larry
Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
Rems is still around as far as I know. I have a Rems Amigo electric threader I bought from a guy that retired back in the 90s and its still going
Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)
Teal Industries in Minnesota is the importer and repair point for REMS. I've sent my tools there for repairs. Are they still open? REMSusa.com
There is a handful of guys that post on IG that do a lot of bending, Mike Flynn flynnstone1 and jeffdemhvac have done demos at some trade shows, AHR and others.
I used to do a lot of bending on my jobs, mostly hobby stuff now. You can also bend steel pipe and PVC pipe with it, cold!
I think Rothenberger has a bender also.

Re: New tank, single top line, do i need a shutoff?
The tank should sit on a concrete pad , The moisture from the bare ground will rot out the bottom of the tank. Leaves that collect under the tank will do the same. You want to protect the outside from rusting . Rustoleum any scratches that end up in the paint .
Use the bottom tap rather then the top .. Top feed tanks will collect water below the dip tube . The layer between oil and water an algae will grow . The algae feeds off the oil and poops out "Sluge" . The kicker is the algae can't digest the sulfur in the oil and the sludge is a sulfuric acid in base . Probably the reason for the new tank…..The Roth tank has a plastic liner to protect the steel . The Roth will build up sludge too . You have to keep a Roth tank treated to prevent oil flow problems..
Pitch the tank 1/4" down to the valve to drain off any collected water in the tank . Go to HomeDepot and have them cut and thread two sets of 1.25" nipples for the legs with a 1" difference to achieve the 1/4" pitch . And while you are on that isle pick up 4 x1.25" flanges for the legs foot… You say your tank sits 2' lower than the burner ? Now is time to bring up the oil level …
Replace the oil line…. Run a new contained oil line . Copper tubing with a plastic cover. This is a must have for the crawl space oil line run. Trust me on this one , every oil guy here would have stories ..
A fireomatic is required for parts with gaskets like filters, pumps and tiger loops …
As stated above , run the oil line with downward pitch into the house. Any water with the pitch of the tank and the oil line will end up down stream inside the house past the freeze zone ..Inside add the fireomatic valve and service filter ..
New tank new oil…
Hope this helps
