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Ironman

Whenever we do a boiler replacement, we do all of the ancillary components too. If it’s time for a new boiler, it’s also time for them to be replaced. The Taco Sentry is a totally different design and that’s what we use.

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Ironman
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  • bobby32x
    heating the house until it needed to heat the loop again. Hence the "boiler" circ pump and the system pump/s. thanks you for all the help you have given thus far. Bob
    December 2019
  • bobby32x
    Ironman, can you shed a little light on this please? I am looking at my manual for the boiler. On page 53 in the section for "dip switch 2 (8 switch unit)" it says 7 space heating thermostat used 7-off, unused 7-on. It comes from the factory in the off position which indicates that a thermostat is used<b. My question is, when is a heating space ever run without a thermostat? The reason I am even asking that question is because I have a 2 zone switch selector board and that is wired into the t/t ch. Is this dip switch for "direct" thermostat wiring (meaning from 1 thermostat) and set to the off position, and on if it is coming from a zone switch board?
    Also, I now see what you mean by p/s looping. It didn't make sense at first but essentially, what I was doing was heating up the loop as if it were the manifold loop and the boiler would just run longer trying to achieve that temperature. Once the total loop was within range, the circulator would shut off and stop
    December 2019
  • Whenever we do a boiler replacement, we do all of the ancillary components too. If it’s time for a new boiler, it’s also time for them to be replaced.
    The Taco Sentry is a totally different design and that’s what we use.
    December 2019
  • bobby32x
    s and the upstairs gets plenty warm. The upstairs is the further zone to heat up. I have 2 taco zone valves. There is a decent amount of corrosion on each valve and the flag you open to open the zone valve is even a little hard to move. I was considering replacing the valves when I came across the zone heads as replacement options. I guess my question is: Do you think the zone valve has gone bad? and do you think replacing just the head might do the trick? I just dont want to spend the money on a head and find out its the valve body as well. Trying to save a little money if I can. Thanks, Bob
    December 2019
  • bobby32x
    Hello Ironman. I feel like this is turning into a Frankenstein project. I have always felt like there was just something off about the old heating setup. I have not received all of the new parts to plumb the system up properly and I will once I get everything as it will require me breaking into the side of the system that has no shut offs in place to stop the water from backflowing. I will figure that whole thing out when the time comes. Anyway, I am contacting you because I may be having a zone valve issue. I didn't remove any of the wiring from either zones and I also didn't change anything on the zone switch that selects which zone to open. I only wired the power wire from the new boiler to the old switch and it is working, don't get me wrong. Its just that the 2 zones (zone 1 is level one of my home, zone 2 is level 2 upstairs). Well when morning time comes and each zone calls for a new set point from the "sleep schedule" the downstairs temp is taking forever to get up to 70 degree
    December 2019
  • bobby32x
    Never mind my earlier comment about the mag filter. Looks like I was referring to a pex fitting filter. I will just sweat in a new caleffi filter and at the same time, I will sweat in the p/s loop
    December 2019
  • You should also install a Caleffi DirtMag in the return line as indicated by the drawing.
    December 2019
  • The boiler needs to be setup with a digital combustion analyzer.

    P/S piping is mandatory on that boiler to maintain proper flow through the heat exchanger. I'd recommend that you use Navien's manifold to prevent errors.

    Posting some more pics that show the rest of the piping may help.
    December 2019
  • bobby32x
    Thank you for responding in an non-demeaning manner. I will look into getting the suggested valves per the manufacture. I was hoping what I made was close enough. I know there is a tee at the bottom of the supply and return which I assumed was for tempering and not a deal breaker. I will also be putting in a whole house filter on the incoming water for the entire house, pre water softener (is that sufficient?).
    , but if that is not enough, I guess I will be putting one on the heating system as well, no biggy.
    Lastly, I flushed both zones for quite a while, maybe a half hour or so until the air seemed to be purged and the water was definitely dirty and eventually cleaned up pretty good. I will also check the gas pressure. I just don't have one and was hoping that I would get lucky and the old boiler would be similar in pressure. Thanks again, Bob
    December 2019
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