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Re: Heat Loss Calculations
If you have good records, you can use gas consumption compared to HDD to get a check on the program or spreadsheet methods.
Re: Death Of The Most Well Intentioned Header Ever Constructed
That first header. I'm equal parts impressed and horrified.
Re: Zone that doesn't heat properly
Side note, I noticed you ran your exhaust vent in PVC and you are getting really close to 200 degrees on your flue temp. Just be cautious of that. I’m not saying you can or cant just be mindful of the ratings.
Re: Heat Loss Calculations
A word of caution to the excel people, the math is not hard, but the secret sauce in is in some of the assumptions (about leakage, construction quality, thermal bridging, etc) in the various models. That's why you see a 10-50% variation even when you specify the same size and construction details in the different calculators.I agree. The reason I ended up with Excel is because I wanted to see exactly what affect varying the assumptions would make. With the online tools, none told me exactly what they were doing or what assumptions they were making behind the scenes. With Excel, I put in the equations so I knew exactly what the variables were and I could do sensitivity analysis. The hardest was the edge loss through my slab as it is neither insulated nor open to ambient. It has a 1/2” asphalt expansion joint and then abuts an 8” hollow CMU. So, I guessed at a low R value and went from there. Infiltration loss was the second hardest assumption to make. I didn’t want to bother with a full blown measurement as I have only a workshop, not a McMansion, so I took a reasonable guess.
loadcalc.net is a good one, it's not pretty but seems to be more accurate in the real world than the slantfin one, IMHO.
So far, things look pretty good. I designed for a 60 degree delta T and I am seeing almost exactly that. We had a few days where the temps were in single digits during the day and -15 at night with 30 MPH winds. The shop got down to a low of 52 with the boiler running flat-out. I am pretty happy with that as it will maintain my desired indoor temp of 60 in all but the coldest and windiest conditions and the gas usage is so low I almost can’t tell it is there compared to what my home has used historically. The added gas usage of the workshop is literally almost not noticeable. So, I am a happy camper and I just hope that the little TT boiler lives a long life since I decided to spend the extra $1400 or so above what a water heater would have cost.
Re: Heat Loss Calculations
A word of caution to the excel people, the math is not hard, but the secret sauce in is in some of the assumptions (about leakage, construction quality, thermal bridging, etc) in the various models. That's why you see a 10-50% variation even when you specify the same size and construction details in the different calculators.
loadcalc.net is a good one, it's not pretty but seems to be more accurate in the real world than the slantfin one, IMHO.
loadcalc.net is a good one, it's not pretty but seems to be more accurate in the real world than the slantfin one, IMHO.
Re: Does "Short Cycling" on a new steam boiler have a negative effect on the lifespan of the boiler?
Cycling like that isn't good. It may not damage the boiler or the burner, but it certainly won't help them -- nor the fuel bill.
It usually indicates that there is a major problem with system main venting, which is easy enough to fix... if one wants to do it.
It usually indicates that there is a major problem with system main venting, which is easy enough to fix... if one wants to do it.
Re: Condensing combi boiler what one would you put in your house.
Viessmann also. Would opt for indirect over Combi though
Re: I want to add a Wi-Fi thermostat but do not have enough wires.
You can use Honeywell Redlink, they communicate wirelessly to a gateway. Does need a receiver and some wiring at boiler. Tekmar has something similar Or a common maker. Or just pull some wires
Re: new low PSI gauge filling with water
Looks good!
Your running a 1 1/4 lb differential. That's close enough for now. I would adjust the main setting a little lower. Only turn it a 1/2 turn at a time. Then let it cycle a few times before you adjust it further.
Your cut in is 1.25. try and get that down to .5 psi. If you go too low the burner may not restart. The controls are pretty consistent. the scale markings not so much
just go a little at a time
Your running a 1 1/4 lb differential. That's close enough for now. I would adjust the main setting a little lower. Only turn it a 1/2 turn at a time. Then let it cycle a few times before you adjust it further.
Your cut in is 1.25. try and get that down to .5 psi. If you go too low the burner may not restart. The controls are pretty consistent. the scale markings not so much
just go a little at a time
Re: Vintage radiators
I put heat in a house for comfort, not to save money. If people were serious, really serious about saving money. They would put a couple space heaters in critical locations to keep the plumbing from freezing and be done with it.
People are being fed a false bill of goods by garbage contractors, and it's not just the heating field.
Biggest contractor in my area builds crap, and people buy them up like crazy because, well granite counter tops and square footage for cheap.
People are being fed a false bill of goods by garbage contractors, and it's not just the heating field.
Biggest contractor in my area builds crap, and people buy them up like crazy because, well granite counter tops and square footage for cheap.
