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Re: New Weil-McClain Steam Boiler w Domestic Coil - NOT WORKING - HELP!!
Your contractor purchased the wrong tankless heater for your steam boiler. You got the correct boiler but the supplier screwed up. The end section has both openings. The tankless coil is the wrong one.
The Left section with the coil openings is part number 311-800-014. That comes preassembled from the factory when you specify the tankless coil on either a steamer or water boiler. With a steamer you should get the Operating Control and Tankless Heater 35-S-29. This is the part available from supplyhouse.com WM Tankless heater Your contractor should be able to get that part from the their supplier. Your contractor is responsible for verifying the supplier's error before installing the boiler. With the incorrect coil you will never get hot water in the summer. You will get hot water in the winter whenever the boiler is making steam.
You can look at the openings in the exploded parts view. The round opening for the water boiler tankless coil is located above the water line of the steam boiler. the water in the steam boiler will not get that high so the coil will never get hot enough for a shower. If the water does not get up that high then there is no hot water until the boiler makes steam. The rectangle opening is at the water line so you get most of the coil in the water below the water line. When you make that water below the water line 150° or 160° there will be no steam, but the tankless coil is in the hot water and will get hot water all summer.
If the contractor made the mistake of installing the wrong equipment, and you can not get satisfaction from the contractor, you need to call Weil McLain Tech support and have the factory representative show up at the job with the contractor and get this taken care of.
CAUTION
Once the contractor gets the proper coil installed, they MUST install a proper automatic mixing valve to prevent scalding. In the summer the boiler water temperature may only be 160° to make 120° water to the shower. That same water will be 213° or higher when the boiler makes steam. That difference in water temperature that the tankless coil is submerged in will cause scalding water temperatures to leave the tankless coil. A proper mixing valve with an ASSE 1017 certified rating is necessary to prevent scalding water from leaving the boiler room and ending up in your shower or sink.
Re: New Weil-McClain Steam Boiler w Domestic Coil - NOT WORKING - HELP!!
The steam boiler has a rectangular coil plate. Inside the jacket. The skim port, on the steam boilers with the coil, is not a tapping, it's a round plate bolted on, with an inch and a half tapping in the plate, for skimming. The boilers without the tankless coil, have a tapping in the block, to skim. I think that he has the right boiler, but with the wrong coil.
Re: New Weil-McClain Steam Boiler w Domestic Coil - NOT WORKING - HELP!!
The skim tapping on the WM, depends on whether or not the WM has the opening for the tankless coil. The ones without the opening, just have a tapping, like your boiler. The ones with the opening for the tankless coil, have a round plate, bolted on with an inch and a half tapping that is used for skimming.
Re: Steam Near Boiler Piping
The smell and haze is normal burning the coating off the pipe. No pressure is a good thing as long as everything is heating.
Haze and smell from piping and boiler are completely normal. May need 4-6 hours of running to clear up
Re: Actuator Replacement
The actuator head may be interchangeable, but the collar that was used is designed for that manifold.
As @HVACNUT said, use new actuators and if interchangeable, keep the old heads as backup.
Dave H.
Dave H_2
Re: Replace an aging Beckett RWB oil burner?
@Jack M , what model boiler is your current burner installed on?
I would want to see what firing head is on that burner. For those not aware, a long time ago Beckett made a non-flame-retention model called the "S" before fitting it with the then-new flame-retention head to make the SR (which they also did with the original model A to make it into the AF). As long as it has the flame-retention head, runs cleanly and efficiently and is a good match for the boiler, I see no need to replace it.
We can still get all the necessary replacement parts for that burner- even an electronic ignitor. The CleanCut fuel unit mentioned above won't work on this one if the motor is 1725 RPM, but Beckett does make a stand-alone solenoid delay valve which will do the same thing.
I've even upgraded a couple S burners into SR units. They ran great.
Re: Moving steam return in one pipe system…images in thread
Rules tend to be unhelpful, because there are too many exceptions… but…
First, the pipe carrying the steam to the radiators has to be pitched to allow the condensate which it also carries to drain. It can either pitch back to the boiler or away from it. But it has to pitch.
At its lowest point it has to connect to a pipe which will carry the condensate back to the boiler. In your case, that is the pipe which you want to move. That pipe can either be high, but lower than the pipe carrying steam, in which case it must pitch back toward the boiler where it can drop to the boiler, or it must be well below the water line of the boiler — preferably at or near floor level. If it is low, it doesn't need any pitch.
The air has to be able to escape freely from the pipes. That is called main venting. Where the main vent or vents is placed depends on how high that return pipe is.
Re: Advice for replacing a Bell & Gossett 2-1/2" with a Grundfos
Important bit with a modcon is make sure the outdoor sensor is installed and a reasonable reset curve set in the boiler. This increases the efficiency and reduces the cycling on the unit so it is a win win in terms of operating cost and boiler life.
With PS piping and a modcon boiler, the secondary pump should be sized for your load not the boiler. You can look at your heat load if you have a man J estimate or fuel use during previous heat season. From there you can figure out how much water you actually need to flow. If you are not replacing with an ECM at least go for a 3 speed unit so it can be adjusted once running. Getting the rad delta T dialed in gets you a couple more precent efficiency as well. With older gravity conversions you do have to watch low flow rate though as some rads might end up getting starved.
Kaos
Re: Boiler pressure rising and expansion tank location
While you have the pump out to check if there is a IFC valve you may as well redesign the near boiler piping. It looks quite easy to do.
Re: Circulator noise when hot?
Sometimes plotting your system on a pump curve can be difficult when there are several different curves for many pumps. The fact that one brand uses a narrow pump chart and the other brand uses a flatter pump chart only confuses things. Only when you put all the pump curves that you are considering on the same chart, can you see the actual difference in each pump, and how that small change can affect your system. Here is that chart:
The left is the TACO and the right is the B&G published performance curves for several of their pumps.
In the center, I have flattened the B&G and made the TACO a little taller so all the HEAD and the GPM lines match up. Then I only selected the 5 pumps mentioned in this discussion. TACO 007, B&G 100, TACO 0010, B&G series HV, and the TACO 0012. When all the performance curves are lined up on the same chart, you can clearly see that the TACO 0010 has more pumping ability than the B&G 100. This may not be by much but perhaps just enough to cause your noise cavitation at the higher temperatures.
When throttling a ball valve on the discharge side of the TACO 0010 pump to reduce the flow rate in order to better match the B&G 100 a 10 or 15% closure may have no effect on the flow rate. You may need to get closer to 70% closure of a ball valve in order to cause a real reduction of the flow rate. Then the smallest adjustments after that may cause a large reduction in flow rate. Ball valves are not the best devices for that purpose however that is what you have to work with, so you need to use them.
Important NOT to throttle the inlet side of the pump. That will make things worse. Only throttle the discharge side of a pump to meter the flow in the system
Hope this info helps
Mr. Ed