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Re: Help with Goodman GSXC16 Error code 04
the phase shift is always 90 degrees. there are some parasitic things that happen that shift it a little, but theoretically it is always 90 degrees. the capacitor acts as a resistor with ac current so it limits the current to the start winding by dropping the voltage.

Re: Help with Goodman GSXC16 Error code 04
"In a capacitor, the current leads the voltage by 90 degrees. When an AC voltage is applied, the capacitor charges and discharges in response to the changing voltage. As the voltage rises, the capacitor begins to charge, allowing current to flow immediately. However, the voltage across the capacitor builds up more slowly, reaching its peak after the current has already started flowing. Conversely, when the voltage decreases, the capacitor discharges, pushing current out before the voltage drops fully. This creates a phase shift where the current waveform precedes the voltage waveform by a quarter cycle (90 degrees) in an ideal capacitor."
The angle of the phase shift is determined by the interaction of the winding resistance, capacitance, and hertz. This allows the start cap to dump current into the start winding until the voltage reaches the preset level on the start relay. The start relay then drops out the start cap and leaves the run cap in the circuit.
So if the the start cap is to large, it will dump more current than the start winding is rated for before the voltage reaches the required drop out level.
Re: Help with Goodman GSXC16 Error code 04
Hard starts are fine-ish. As long as you compare the actual specs on the capacitor and relay to what the manufacture has designed for. That's all they are, a start cap and pot relay in 1 container. The ratings they give them, like 1-5 tons, ect. are garbage.
The compressors are not borderline. The HVAC manufacturer puts them in a borderline envirnment. The Copeland data sheet will tell you exactly what components to use dependant on application.
I recently had to replace a 3 ton compressor out of a York HP. It was an electrical burnout out. As I did my research to determine cause, I found the generic hardstart kit on it had over twice the capacitance allowed by copeland for that compressor. Unit was only like 5 yrs old.
Re: What size pex tubing do you recommend?
@hot_rod in what world does SIM need a 20* delta? Twelve 1/2" loops at .8 GPM with a 50* delta is 240k. I'm not here to argue or complain, but let's be realistic here. 130* SWT w/ 80* RWT is still going to melt the same amount of snow as 100-80 with a 2.5x flow rate. If I'm not mistaken, I believe I've seen you mention more than once the superior European method of a high delta system. We've adopted 20* as a baseline (mostly because it's easy to calculate), but from a practicality perspective, it serves no purpose in a snowmelt system.

Re: Learning my system: WGO-4 firing up-to12x/day in summer
There is a problem with your system. It could be that wiring has been damaged, it could be a defective thermostat for the water heater, it could be incorrect wiring design for the Indirect water heater tank. What you described to me sounds like the boiler is maintaining a temperature and it does not have the proper control for maintaining temperature. That boiler is not designed to maintain temperature with the control system you have described.
Here is what the sequence of operation for your system should be.
- Start with a cold boiler on a summer day when there is no call for heat. The boiler should be the same temperature as the room the boiler occupies.
- The water heater is maintaining a temperature based on the setting of the water heater aquastat. (120°)
- The water heater temperature drops below the temperature set-point of the aquastat as a result of hot water use, or just because of off cycle loss over several (16 or more) hours of non use. The aquastat calls for hot water
- The call for heat reaches the Taco SR 504 (or SR 506) control and the LED indicates that there is a call for DHW (Domestic Hot Water)
- The DHW circulator operates to move water from the boiler to the DHW tank
- The oil burner operates to heat the boiler water.
- The burner continues to operate until
- The call for DHW is satisfied and both the calculator pump and the burner stops.
- The high limit on the L8148 is reached and the burner stops but the circulator continues to operate until the call for heat is satisfied.
- The burner may restart once the boiler water temperature drops enough to allow the high limit to close contacts. The circulator is still operating.
- The call for DHW is satisfied and the burner and circulator both stop.
- The boiler temperature will slowly drop over time and eventually get to the room temperature of the boiler room.
My first step is to see if the circulator for the DHW is operating. They are very quiet so I take a straw and use it like a stethoscope and place it on the pump motor and the other end close to my ear to see if I hear anything. (unless you are in the medical field and you own a real stethoscope)
If the circulator is not operating then I would check the wire that goes from X X on the Taco SR504 relay to the T T on the L8148 aquastat. If that wire is damaged and connected (often called shorted) then that is the problem and the wire needs to be replaced. You can test that by removing one of the low voltage wires from the T T on the L8148 aquastat if the burner continues to operate, then the L8148 is defective, if the burner stops operating then the wire is defective or the Taco SR504 X X terminals are defective. To see if that is the case, I would need to see inside the cover of the Taco SR relay.
Re: Bit the bullet: bought an HTP UFT-100W on ebay
The Kiturami HX has some weird aluminum diverter plates in the SS fire tubes that tend to plug up with scale when running low temp and are just about impossible to clean. I installed a crap load of UFT and Laars Mascot FT from about 2016 to 2020 (hated HTP customer service and switched to Laars, then started seeing these issues come up) and have been kicking my own butt for it on a regular basis. High temp systems and low temp w/ indirect seem to be doing okay, but low temp only have been a nightmare. @Ironman and I have talked about this, I believe he's replaced a few HX as well that were not salvageable

Re: high humidity in my house
Not in a position to run all the numbers right now, but that HRV isn't helping you a bit. Consider: all the moisture it is bringing in from outside gets into your inside air unless it is taken out on the cooling coils.
You want to crank that chiller coil as low as it can safely go — and since it is water, 32 is it. Then crank up the air flow in the return (not the HRV) and the chiller power to run as much air as you can to get a discharge air temperature from the coil not higher than 40 (lower will be better)..
Re: Recommendation for highly reliable natural gas water heater?...
Hi and yes, more tappings means more failure points, both inside and out. I like a tank with more tappings as it gives more opportunity for adding a second anode. As most people don't maintain tanks, the added tapping probably doesn't matter much. Way back when, we had copper and Monel tanks, and over 150 manufacturers, so some tanks were made to last far longer. 😇
Yours, Larry
ps. About the ten year thing, it's sort of a standing joke that if a plumber thinks the tank is ten years old, he says "Time for a new heater. This one could leak anytime." I've seen this happen with copper tanks too 🤔
Re: Bit the bullet: bought an HTP UFT-100W on ebay
Whether or not it was dumb depends on how the boilers arrive! Certainly if you get 2 new boilers for that price then you got a great deal. Personally I think I would install one and just save the second one in storage. I think the system would be overall more efficient with a single right sized boiler, slightly simpler piping requirements as well so less that can be messed up. Also 2 vents means twice the chances to recirculate flue gas, keep those intakes far away from the exhaust
Re: high humidity in my house
This is true — but in a colder season, the latent heat recovery benefit of an ERV is more than offset by the potential for poorer (maybe much poorer) indoor air quality, and you can't just switch the operating mode from one to the other — they are very different beasts.