Best Of
Re: What size pex tubing do you recommend?
Tube diameter has little to no effect on BTU output per SQ FT if properly installed. 1/2" is cheapest and easiest, and with only ~1800SF, 5 loops per bay at 250ft each w/ 6" OC is going to be more than adequate. There is absolutely no reason to run larger diameter, and anything wider than 6" OC would be a mistake.
GroundUp
Re: Utica Combi Boiler (MAC-150)-Error 133- Causing big bang noise after few trial of combustion
The boiler was installed new. So the manufacturer put the part in. I believe the part bent under normal operations, which shouldn't happen. If deposit accumulates on it, I would call it normal wear.
budalb
Re: Can someone explain this hydronic loop heating.
As I alluded to before, I believe it was an attempt to reduce or limit the heat output, not enhance the heat output. Did the home have gravity or coal fired heat at one time ?
As illustrated below when the upper air chamber is cold the convector has full flow, when heated up the air expands entering the convector coil, thus reducing the volume of water that could pass through the convector coil, limiting the heat. Whether this worked well or not, I have no idea, apparently the concept never gained any traction.
109A_5
Re: troubleshooting hot water convectors
mattmia2
Re: Replacing cast iron radiator with smaller one
I've replaced an rad like that directly with floor heat. No extra zones, just plumb to the new floor heat to the existing rad.
This was with UltraFin install from bellow. These can be sized to run with the same temperature water as your exisiting rad then you match the sqft of heated floor to be the same output as the existing rad. Depending on how restrictive the existing rad piping is, you might need multiple short loops in parallel, if doubt go with a small local manifold with multiple short loops.
If you want to get fancy, you can even add a TRV or zone valve on this for local temperature control but simple adjustment on the manifold is good enough.
Kaos
Re: Cold Radiator
If the height of the main is such that you can't get it to slope toward the main without cutting the joists, you can do as @109A_5 alluded to in 2 and bring the line below the joists, slope it toward the riser anmd tee a drip off the bottom of the riser to bring the condensate back to a return below the water line. the drip can be up high until it gets to the return as long as it has slope toward the return.
mattmia2
Re: Replacing cast iron radiator with smaller one
I understand we can't replace it with a compact aluminum radiator because that would require a lower temperature. Any advice?
who told you that? Also you could use a steel one (also lightweight).
Re: Compression fitting going from lead to anything modern (e.g. steel/brass)
Hi
Make sure to have valves before the sillcocks and I recommend adding a drain cock as well and be sure to open them before winter and make sure no water is left in the “frost-free" sillcocks or they'll freeze
An buy the Prier brand
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Prier
9326yssh
Re: New tank, single top line, do i need a shutoff?
Why are you against have a 2 pipe system with the return oil pipe at the top in the dual tapping?
leonz