Best Of
Re: Steam boilers that are piped wrong
Give them a copy of my book, We Got Steam Heat. That will convince they without a doubt.
Re: Simple Question: Brush and Cleaner
coil type condensing heat exchangers I like to use a stiff hand brush, some guys get nylon brushes that you would put on a power tool like a drill as well. if its stainless steel you can use clean F-steel from axiom. the coil type from HTP and most brands are really tight between the coils and you need to make sure you are NOT packing the products of combustion down into those gaps, they make some tools to clean between those gaps, you can use a card, or something stiff enough to get between the gap without being weak enough to snap off in there. Vac out all the big stuff, scrape out the gaps so they are nice and open (all around too!) spray on the cleaner, make the heat exchanger nice and shiny and flush out with water. You want to also clean out the condensate trap at the end of this and flush out the heat exchanger with water one more time, make sure the trap is clean, and water flows nicely out of the heat exchanger, into the trap, and out to drain. Depending on what kind of issues you run into along the way some of these steps may change slightly, the goal should always be to make it look brand new but that can be hard!
If there are refractory pieces use caution to not get them wet! if you see cracks or damage on refractory, igniter, flame sensor, gaskets this is also the time to get those parts to replace them
( I never used this site no idea about it, but this hand brush works for me for the big stuff)
some guys use a new clean toilet brush which also works pretty good!
I don't really have a recomendation for spinny brushes, I've used some from the hardware store, and I see a bunch of assortments on amazon, the ones that are sort of shaped like a toilet brush are fine, round ones are ok too
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viessmann-7883995-Cleaning-Spatula-w-3-Replacement-Blades?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_Heating&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_Heating_X_SSC_Hybrid&utm_campaignid=22330181706&utm_adgroupid=176927237232&utm_targetid=pla-2437652749588&utm_product_id=7883995&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=Heating&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22330181706&gbraid=0AAAAAD_WAyvDfqQeDCjOtwlbkiHirDt8m&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh5vFBhCyARIsAHBx2wxznRhOoNzQcR2ZdItXuS1wrRdTQtfYMp5tIvfXv3N-UoCYq00rF-YaAiyEEALw_wcB
viessmann cleaning spatula
7883995
GGross
Re: Delay of boiler firing?
I can't edit but I meant to say boiler won't fire and pumps won't run.
nate379
Re: Delay of boiler firing?
Oh, it's heated the building fine, on the coldest days the thermostat at most will call for heat for ~20 hours total in a day and I've never felt it wasn't keeping up.
nate379
Re: I'm getting solar panels. I'll let you know how it goes in this discussion thread.
Thank you, I sure will post the good, bad, and the ugly. No word yet on the inspections. Waiting on the town I think.
Re: any suggestions on pumps?
The 26-99 would easily support 3x what you have and is grossly oversized (though would modulate). Even the 15-58 will do nearly double what you have without issue. The Alpha 15-58 and two 3/4" Sentry zone valves would do a heck of a job here but if cost is of any concern, one UPS15-58 on each zone would be a great fit as well.
I typically run my loops 250ft in residential homes and use 32% glycol, and a single 15-58 starts to max out at about 14-15 loops. I do typically use the Alpha 26-99 with zone valves and/or actuators when it's 3 or more zones and 15+ loops, but something like yours would be two UPS 15-58 (if a budget build) or an Alpha 15-58 with two zone valves.
GroundUp
Re: Steam Boiler seems to be pulling a vacuum causing it to shut down on low water.
Here are some tips on setting up forum email notifications:
https://heatinghelp.com/forum-user-manual
Re: Steam Boiler seems to be pulling a vacuum causing it to shut down on low water.
With a vented boiler feed tank and pumps, atmospheric pressure pushes feedwater from the tank into the boiler and header causing the flooded condition you describe.
If this is a vacuum return system, or you're interested in maintaining a vacuum on the returns, a positively closing valve on the discharge of the boiler feed pump(s) should be installed. The actuator on this valve should be wired so the valve only opens when the boiler is calling for feedwater and the boiler feed pump is operating.
Pumpguy
Re: Steam Boiler seems to be pulling a vacuum causing it to shut down on low water.
Assuming the installation of the boiler feed pump is correct and it is vented to the atmosphere and all else is correct the steam vacuum breaker can be the solution without looking for problem that may not exist.
Taken from my book steam the perfect fluid for heating and some of the problems. Available at Amazon, Barnes and Noble and Dorrance Publishing Pittsburg Pa.
Re: Replacing cast iron radiator with smaller one
Just to let you know, I have corrected this mistake many times in my career. As I said in my first post, "It may even work in some rare cases." but I have had many situations where baseboard was added to replace a CI radiator that did not heat the space, a Kick Space heater was added to the existing supply and return, and even radiant floor tubing was connected without the proper mixing valve to lower the water temperature as required for radiant floor heating systems. Attempts to do it cheap can often result in undesirable results. If you are going to do this, then do it right the first time. Someone with Hydronics experience should be consulted.
With using the same water temperature on PEX tubing for floor heat, as the CI radiator system, you run the risk of making the floor too hot to stand on. a 165° high limit on a CI radiator might be nice to sit next to on a cold winter evening, but try walking barefoot on a 165° floor. Not so comfortable
