Best Of

Re: I need temp and pressure gauge

To me a tridicator is sort of a compromise gauge. I've never met a top quality brand or version.

I prefer a good quality pressure gauge and a good quality thermometer as separates.

hot_rod

1

Re: I need temp and pressure gauge

I have a MARSH Instruments Tridicator and it has performed flawlessly with my coal stoker boiler.

If you visit the Marsh Instruments home page you will be able to order the correct tridicator for your boilers tapping size. Please be aware that the tridicator MUST be installed with no teflon tape or thread paste as it will prevent the gauge from reading the system pressure correctly.

leonz

1

Re: Air Scoop/HyVent Leaking

you should be able to remove just the top of the float vent. Inside a rubber seal and a needle type valve, easy to clean.

Although you may need to drains down or isolate it somehow.

hot_rod

1

excess air even with shutter at \"0\" on beckett

As Steamhead has already stated, there are two firing rates for the V83 Hot Water boilers. The standard firing rate is 1.05 gph utilizing a .85 x 60A Delavan nozzle and 140 psi of pump pressure. The reduced or V83WM firing rate is .75 gph utilizing a .60 x 60A Delavan nozzle and the Low Fire Baffle needs to be installed. Extensive testing has already been done by Beckett and Burnham so there is really no need to experiment with other nozzles, nozzle brands and settings. Your air shutter should remain at a setting of 10 and your Air Band can be lowered to 0.5. Pump pressure stays at 140 psi also. I might add that after these changes are made, the instruments have to be put to this burner to check for proper combustion and clean combustion. Setting up burners is no longer a "by eye" process. Hope this helps.

Glenn Stanton

Manager of Training

Burnham Hydronics

U.S. Boiler Co., Inc.

Unknown

1

Re: Trade school curriculums - how could they be better?

Hi @CharlesKuang , One thing that seems to be missing is money smarts, or education on business fundamentals and financial literacy. Knowing these things is just as important as knowing the trade work. We need both.

Yours, Larry

Larry Weingarten

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Re: Homeowner and plumber disagreement

BFD back flow devices are to protect a potable water system or source from water of a higher hazard.

Basically on the main line to a home or building a RPZ type BFD is the most common. Some water meter yokes have a BFD built in, but non testable.

The public water supplier doesn't want water back once it has entered a building or piping system off the main, ever. They have no control over what cross-connections or hazards are in your building. Even a garden hose in a mud puddle could contaminate the public water, in a back flow or back siphonage condition.

Once the water is in your building additional BFDs may be required to keep YOUR water safe, boilers, lawn sprinks, fire protection various faucets, etc.

As such the plumbing codes identify typical hazards that need protection, and usually the ASME listing number.

Hose bibs

Kitchen faucets with spray hoses

Tub fillers with spray hose

Hand held hose type showers

Old style tube spouts below the flood rim of the tub itself

Hydronic systems

Drink dispensers

Lawn sprinkler

Fire sprinkler system

etc, etc

Different levels of hazards require different ASME listed BFDs. A boiler with EG is a high hazard, needs a testable RPZ

A boiler with tap water is a low or medium hazard, a vented dual check is acceptable, some ADUs allow unvented style dual checks.

AHJs identify boiler water hazard differently. We sell 3 different boiler BFD devices. In NY state alone 3 different types are accepted depending on the area.

A swing or spring check is not a listed ASME BFD, unless it specifically has an ASME listing number permanently affixed on the device.

I read through the UPC, don't see a requirement for BFDs on tank water heater supply? Check valves yes, for backflow within the recirc, but not a listed BFD. Unless you know of another?

hot_rod

1

Re: No air scoop

Those "expansion" tanks (technically a compression tank) are incredibly simple and reliable. But it may well be waterlogged.

Which is easy to fix. As you say, close valve B. Open valves C and A and drain all the water out of the tank. Close them. Reopen valve B. Use you feed valve to bring the system pressure back to where you want it.

End of story. No need to add air to the tank….

Now it probably waterlogged as the connection to the rest of the system isn't really quite right. Ideally there would be a direct connection with an Airtrol fitting at the tank, but it is what it is. You just may have to drain the tank from time to time. Try to avid removing air by bleeding or whatever anywhere else — you want all the stray air in the system to end up in that tank if possible.

Jamie Hall

1

Re: Need new Gauge

"A" is in a well. "B" is in the water.

HVACNUT

1

Re: Baffled: Weil-Mclain startup and delay on break relay

More information about these 'Delay after Break' timers.

Seems they are marketed under a few different band names and various versions (probably over time).

MARS 32392, multiple versions, with different delays, 2 and 3 terminal, all with the same part number (confusing).

Long Term QD-072

SUPCO TD-73 (Sealed Unit Parts Co. Inc.) Shorter maximum delay.

ICM Controls ICM203, ICM203F (wire leads) .03 to 10 Minute delay, rated at 1.5 Amps.

I have a ICM203F and last heating season I connected to my old steam boiler that has a standing pilot and it appeared to work as expected.

The odd thing about the ICM203F and others is the jumper that you have to cut for the higher voltages. With the jumper intact there is a 560 Ohm resistor across the two connection terminals or wires (easy to see with an Ohmmeter). If the higher voltages were applied with the jumper wire intact the resistor would burn up since it is only a 1/2 or 1 watt resistor.

So why the need for the 560 Ohm resistor in the first place for 24 VAC operation ? May never know, I suspect it is not actually needed for 24 VAC operation but satisfied some other need for some other special application and that other special application never made it to the documentation. I don't see any benefit to having the parasitic current through the resistor and the load, the circuit seems stable without it.

My experiments so far (24 VAC nominal) with the 560 Ohm resistor disconnected, is the timer works fine from just over 1.0 milliAmps (0.001 Amps) to over 400 milliAmps (0.400 Amps) tested so far, the ICM203 is rated at 1.5 Amps. (it actually works under 1.0 milliAmps (0.001 Amps) but the units burden voltage is higher since the SCR does not fire.

It appears the "Minimum: 40 mA" is simply to overcome the 560 Ohm resistor in parallel with the rest of the circuit, so rest of the circuit it has enough voltage and current to work properly.

For folks that want to use the timer before the damper, possibly in series with the pressuretrol, I would cut the jumper. BTW with limited testing on my boiler it still works fine with the jumper removed. Probably better, no parasitic current through the 560 Ohm resistor and the load.

I will continue with more experiments.

A video showing the circuit board of the SUPCO TD-73. Not in depth enough in my opinion.

" Edu1: Delay on Break Timer (Too In Depth Do Not Watch) "
https://youtu.be/g4keOpObPVY

109A_5

1

Re: Weil McClain Evergreen Pro Boiler Line (299, 399, etc) vs Lochinvar Knight XL Opinions

Running 185 during coldest days and using outdoor reset for the shoulder seasons will still net fuel savings. More heat emitters can be added later to improve efficiency. That is a June project not November.

Charlie from wmass

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