Best Of
Re: How Do I Connect This Wire?
This past month I assisted several using private message and I just wanted to save the wiring diagrams so I can find then in the future.
Steam with Nest
Add on Hydro coil for heat on variable speed air handler using a ZVC 404 for the zone valve control
This diagram uses the Heat Relay C an NO contacts to operate a zone on the ZVC 403. (Not powered) like an end switch.
There is a similar diagram that uses the 24v. transformer from the air handler to operate the zone valve.
Same concept but the zone valve is powered differently. we are looking to fool the variable speed fan by using the G and the W on the AHU control PCB to get both a call for heat and a call for fan simultaneously. Otherwise a call for fan only (G) may indicate that variable speed fan to operate at a 10% or 15% IAQ filtering speed which will not be enough to circulate heat from the Hydro coil to the conditioned space. Any questions? just ask me.
Re: Steam kettle trap
Might not be a bad idea to replace the bucket trap with an F&T. Bucket traps don't vent air that well, and if the air can't get out of the kettle, the steam can't get in.
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
A thermometer with a clamp type probe will give you more accurate readings.
mattmia2
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
Looking at the 13 minute numbers here is what I might want to look into
The temperature difference (∆T) between the supply and the return water is a little high. 29°F (almost 30° ∆T) means one of two things. Either the water is staying in the radiators too long, or a new zone just opened and is sending cold water to the boiler and mixing with the hotter return water from the previously operating zone(s). You need to have a more controlled test procedure. Perhaps have all zones calling at once, then check steady state operation after 15 minutes. That will show the real operating ∆T
11.8% CO2 with a gross stack temperature of 383.6°F does not equal 92.43%. When you look on a combustion efficiency chart for #2 heating oil and you take into consideration the NET stack temperature. (383.6° minus 70° room temperature is a net of 313.6°, for example) you will get a combustion efficiency closer to 85%
Of course you may get different number if you set your electronic instrument to "LP" or "Nat" gas. Double check your settings
Re: Radiant flow not pushing fast enough
A very hot pump could indicate an air lock, it is not moving adequate or any water to cool the motor.
hot_rod
Re: Radiant flow not pushing fast enough
Since the circulator is pumping in to the hot port of the thermostatic valve, isn't the thermostatic valve going to close that port off and fully open the cold port when the outlet of the valve gets to the setpoint. Won't the valve get to the setpoint very quickly when they boiler is up to temp because it will be pushing water that is hotter than the mixing valve setpoint in to it? There will be essentially no flow in to the cold port because the circulator will pull the water that goes in to the loop back to the boiler through the return when the valve is open on the hot side and once it closes the hot side completely there will be no flow at all. I think the combination of hot boiler water and deadheading the circulator is making it hot. That will eventually damage it but it may still be ok now.
The valve does modulate between hot and cold but if the setpoint is like 120 f and there is 160 degree water being pumped in to it, it will go full to cold.
mattmia2
Re: Indirect water heater drywell overflowing?
unless you stick a rolled up piece of paper towel or something in the well to soak up the water it may take a very long time to dry out.
mattmia2
Re: Indirect water heater drywell overflowing?
This is the tank that I'm referring to. This is the one that Weil McLain stopped selling while I was still working in the trade. Weil McLain Plus indirect brochure This was the tank within a tank that had the leaking well issue.
Weil McLain's current indirect tank offering Weil McLain Aqua Plus Indirect Water Heater. I believe this one uses a coil that is serviced from the top. I never installed one of these myself.
Re: Drip leg or the end of main steam line
Looks like the supply rises up and goes through the wall and the drip comes down into the return.
