Best Of
Re: Vidodens 200-W Three way Valve Heating/ IDHW Testing pulling out diverter motor.
Here is a video on the B1HE diverter valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_L_0Xensix8
Re: Condensate Drain Pan Overflow
https://www.supplyhouse.com/EZ-Trap-83113-EZT-113-Economy-Trap-Kit-without-Brush?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_HVAC&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_HVAC_X_SSC_Hybrid&utm_campaignid=22357738680&utm_adgroupid=176148031665&utm_targetid=pla-2438113616355&utm_product_id=83113&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=HVAC&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22357738680&gbraid=0AAAAAD_WAyvl-jwGlG8l9aJWqc35V3hgO&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlqTRBhCBARIsANrkrxgLcI221c61vB5TY5gynL6h3zH-cK2sqH47O2jdrVOOpcQToAxsy8EaAi83EALw_wcB
pecmsg
Re: Are Air-to-Water Heat Pumps Finally Ready for Extreme Cold Climates?
You need to do the homework when considering on a A2whp
The required operating temperature at design condition is one critical number.
Staying below 120 is a good goal. So large surface area emitters like radiant panels work best.
Data is available from manufacturers and independent testing on efficiency drop as outdoor temperatures drop. No guessing required. Same with performance at higher operating temperatures
This info, in graph form was in my installation manual. Realistic numbers not sales hype.
Operating cost comparison is directly related to the various fuel cost at the insty locat. That data is also available going back 30 years or more. The question is fuel costs going forward?
I would also pull the data to see how many days a location is at or below design when considering a backup system.
Some do, some don’t consider the installed cost of a HP. ROI is another hard to pin down number. System longevity is a question Refrigerators have a 15-20 year lifespan, as far as the compressor snd components
Lots if electronics under the hood A piwer conditioner is a goid option.
Qualified installer and service people needs to be considered. It takes multiple skills to troubleshoot a HP
I’m going on 3 years with a Viessmann system running 120 SWT to radiant slabs. Just started running chilled water to the slab for cooling. So far I am pleased with the operation and operation cost
Electric rates vary between 11– 13 cents, and I have enough PV to run the system on sunny days
So for me, all the boxes checked.
Replacing or a new installation on a system needing 140 or more, especially in cold climates. This may end up with some heart break.
hot_rod
Re: Struggling to identify my radiator brand
A-HAA!. The true reason for this post:
It should be titled: Help me find the Banging
As far as this discussion is concerned "Size Does Not Matter"
That is radiator size I was talking about
"I'm renting in NYC and the risers are banging a decent amount at start-up and about half as much during shut off."
Now we need more in formation.
- As a renter you probably have no say in what goes on in the boiler room.
- As a resident you need "Quiet Enjoyment". (I learned that in business law in 1975)
- Once you have done all the research, As a non-professional you may find the answer but no one will listen to you because "What could they know, They are only a (fill in your job title)"
- That should not stop you from trying though, You never know, You may find the problem and become the hero of the building.
@mattmia2 has touched on the most common causes of the banging. So the process of elimination is the only way to get the banging to stop. I might start with the water quality in the boiler. Can you post photos of the near boiler piping? Look at the gauge glass and see if the water inside the glass is clean. Does it bounce more than 1" while the boiler is operating?
Re: Old Home full remodel in Zone 5A — need advice on new ductwork design, Manual J/D, attic ducts
I am real, just been very busy with work that I have not been able to reply yet. I greatly appreciate everyones feedback and will be posting a longer reply shortly
MichaelT
Re: Old Home full remodel in Zone 5A — need advice on new ductwork design, Manual J/D, attic ducts
@MichaelT said "I have considered adding in radiant heating but I thought if we need to run all the ductwork for AC then we might as well use it for heating and cooling. "
Don't fall into that trap. Typically, in northern states the cooling load is much less than the heating load. If you try to combine everything into one ducted system it will be wrong for at least half the year.
Up your way I'd do steam for heating, since it would be far less prone to freezing damage if the power or fuel supply were interrupted in the winter.
Re: Red tubing yay or nay
It's PEX, specifically PEX-B.
The Radiant Floor Company sold ½" and 7/8" tubing; with each size, they made one with and one without an oxygen barrier. From the writing on the tubing, it looks as though what you have there is without the oxygen barrier, so you might get some corrosion of ferrous components.
And it also looks like you have a high temperature system with bare tubing in the joist bays. High temperatures promote more oxygen diffusion, so a HX may be indicated to save the system although you will have to run a higher boiler temperature because of HX inefficiencies.
More about the tubing here.
Re: Red tubing yay or nay
sounds like they push the non oxygen barrier version claiming that temps under 140f don't cause oxygen diffusion so i'm guessing that is not the oxygen barrier version
mattmia2
Re: Struggling to identify my radiator brand
Thank you @mattmia2. Thank you @Steamhead. Thank you @EdTheHeaterMan. And thank you @TMS1980 .
I'm renting in NYC and the risers are banging a decent amount at start-up and about half as much during shut off.
I read "We Got Steam Heat! A Homeowners Guide to Peaceful Coexistence" by Holohan cover to cover. Based on that read, it could be the vents need to be cleaned. There are 5! vents by my count, although it is dimly lit and the building is mixed use, pipes are everywhere. Or it could be boiler and system size mismatch.
I've started gathering drawings of the system from DOB, asked my friendly neighbor if I could look at their radiator, and I've visited the boiler a few times.
I want to match Boiler output hourly rate to main pipe hourly rates to risers + radiators hourly rates. Is that the correct way to look at the problem?
sloomee
Re: 90%+ Boiler vs 80% boiler
All of these things you mentioned are not unique to a modcon…Leaking relief valve, you don't try to reseat it, any boiler tech will have half a dozen generic relief valves on the van (they are same as on CI boiler, local hardware stores carry them). Air vents fail on CI systems, leaky systems with open fill valves will also destroy a cast iron boiler. not trying to change your mind on what works best for you personally, just recognize that none of these things are unique to a modcon, you just had poor techs involved imo. And somewhere along the lines those techs made you feel like a "dumb homeowner" and yet here you are trying to learn more about your heating system. That isn't dumb at all, and you should not feel like you are.
GGross