Best Of

Hi @mattmia2 , I'm very careful with referrals. I'm of the "go slowly and do it well, and just once" bent. Too many are of the "go fast and mess up" approach. I don't want my name attached to that. And, although I don't mind crawlspaces, just guessing I'm in the minority. 🤠

Yours, Larry

The Low Water Cut Of Switch should be installed in one of the tapping's in the side of the new boiler and it should be wired as the first electric control to protect the boiler in the event of a water loss as it will immediately cut the power to the boiler if the LWCOS senses no water.

About the steel compression tank; it would be better and more effective keeping this tank for air management as it has a much greater capacity to create and maintain the point of no pressure change. The steel compression tank creates a huge air cushion to provide the Point Of No Pressure Change and quickly removes air bubbles and microbubbles as long as an In Line Air Separator and Airtrol valve is installed correctly.

Once the boiler, steel compression tank and system is filled with water the water feed valve is shut off completely and the boiler started the remaining air in the system will migrate to the steel compression tank dissolve from the water and will remain in the air blanket above the water in the steel compression tank to maintain the Point Of No Pressure change and keep the circulator flooded.

Chances are that your gas valve is powered by 750 millivolts. That power is generated by the pilot flame burning on the pilot power generator. There are several items that connect the electrical parts to make the millivolts open the gas valve.

• First there is the power generator sometimes called a power pile.
• Next there is a Gas Valve that uses that power
• Then there is the thermostat that opens and closes the electric current based on the room temperature
• Then there may be a Limit switch or even more limit switches placed in different locations around the furnace in order to keep the furnace from overheating.

Some of these limit switches may have a manual reset. If you have a manual reset limit, that may be the reason you have no heat. Follow the wires to see if there are any limit switches. See if those switches have a tiny button between the wire connectors and press it. If you feel a slight click when you push it then it was tripped. If you do not feel a slight click then it was not tripped.

Another reason for no heat is the power generator thermopile may be defective.

Here is a wiring diagram that might be close to what you have in your floor furnace.

If you are not comfrotable playing with the safety controls on a gas appliance then i would suggest you call a professional for service. but pushing a reset button on a limit control is usually a DIY first step. If the limit trips again, then you need to find the cause. The safety switches are there to let you know something is wrong and needs further attention. Don't bypass them.

Hi @borecrazy , What region or city in CA are you in? I keep trying to be retired, so am not looking for work, but am near Monterey and have experience with floor furnaces.

Yours, Larry

As long as its not leaking, I'm more concerned about the distance/height to that window...Mad Dog