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Taco zone valve
I have 2 zones. The upstairs is not getting any heat while downstairs is fine. Replaced the upper thermostat. The valve control shows 2 yellow lights indicating calls for heat.zone 1 red light is on while furnace heats downstairs.No red light for zone 2. The zone 2 baseboard water line is not warm. T h e valve units power supply is open and the unit is hot to touch. Could the power supply unit be burnt out and stuck open? Any other suggestions as to why zone 2 isn't heating ?
virgb
1
Re: Any hope for my National Heat Extractor 100 series oil boiler?
Yeah, @Steamhead I used to use the Beckett SR and liked that burner.
Carlin also had flame retention with 1725 rpm 175 FR and others.
But not sure if they used the same chassis with 3450 which was your point.
@billtwocase Ah the old soot makers, Petro was one of the best at that and the odd motor with the two diameter step shaft. The old stuff was dependable, you could drop it off a cliff and it would still run.
When the 100crd and the AF came out (about 1970?) we thought we had died and gone to heaven. Some complained about noise, lining the chamber helped and also standardized parts, the 100crd and AF used mostly the same parts.
Carlin also had flame retention with 1725 rpm 175 FR and others.
But not sure if they used the same chassis with 3450 which was your point.
@billtwocase Ah the old soot makers, Petro was one of the best at that and the odd motor with the two diameter step shaft. The old stuff was dependable, you could drop it off a cliff and it would still run.
When the 100crd and the AF came out (about 1970?) we thought we had died and gone to heaven. Some complained about noise, lining the chamber helped and also standardized parts, the 100crd and AF used mostly the same parts.
Re: Attic Radiator Sloshing/Spitting Water
That radiator or the horizontal pipe that may feed it is holding water, lifting the whole thing up a 1/2 or more. Just be very gentle you don't want to break anything.
Bob
Bob
BobC
1
Re: Wood-fired Steam Heating
I forgot about that.SlamDunk said:After experencing Canadian smoke from forest fires 1000 miles North of me all last summer, I'm surprised there are any trees left.
That stunk.
ChrisJ
2
Re: Prestige Solo 110 boiler. Is there a way to switch modulation off and on?
Does it have a boost function that you could set aggressively
hot_rod
1
Re: The case of the backward flow, this Friday's case
@mattmia2
Actually, they are piped the way they should be piped. If each boiler connects to the primary separately, they will get different return temperatures and if running both boilers one boiler will affect the other boilers temp.
Most manufacturers with multiple boilers will show them that way. You want the boilers to get the same return temp and the supply temps from each should mix before it goes into the primary loop.
Actually, they are piped the way they should be piped. If each boiler connects to the primary separately, they will get different return temperatures and if running both boilers one boiler will affect the other boilers temp.
Most manufacturers with multiple boilers will show them that way. You want the boilers to get the same return temp and the supply temps from each should mix before it goes into the primary loop.
Re: Door blower test came back 2000 below 4k sq ft - ERV recommended
They typically get tied into the HVAC distribution system.
Usually an interlock to run the fan on an AE.
You could do bath exhaust on timers.
Usually an interlock to run the fan on an AE.
You could do bath exhaust on timers.
HVACNUT
3
Re: Another Moline System
The house pre-dates the system by many years.jumper said:In Michigan real estate they call an area that is more or less a crawl space with a bit more head room a "Michigan basement". It isn't really habitable space and usually has a mishmash of floor elevations and usually dirt floor.Cities condemned homes without heating systems. Houses were rehabilitated by digging out enough space to instal heater. But Moline was cadillac grade so one would expect a nice basement?
Ironman
1
Are bushings & plugs leakers?
JMHO they are not the best fitting to use, but sometimes you don't have a choice. Putting a vent alarm in an oil tank for instance. 2" tapping in the tank and the vent alarm is 1 1/4 in some cases. Yeah, you could use a 2" VA with a reducing coupling on it but that's extra $$$$$
I learned my lesson once about bushings and pipe plugs. MA used to have their own oil code which required the manufacturer to pressure test their oil tanks to 5psi. (both inside and underground tanks) I know for a fact some did not do this.
Working for an oil company back in the day we installed a lot of tanks. Everything from 275s up to 20,000 gallons and 50 years ago New England was 80% heated by oil.
In MA. the local Fire Dept. is responsible for oil burner and tank inspections. We had one town that would make us pressure test any underground tank after it was set in place but before being backfilled.
The Chiefs reasoning was even if it was factory tested it could have been damaged on the road or while being set in place. The tank companies you to have the big tanks delivered on a low bed tractor trailer. The driver would show up with a bunch of used tires and a rope. He would tie the rope to the tank lifting lugs and around the trailer tie down to act as a pulley and push the tank off onto the used tires .
Back to the bushings and plugs. So I had one to test and it would not hold 5 psi after being set in place and the GC was getting on my nerves about wanting to backfill and the fire chief was scheduled to show up after lunch and at 19 years old I barely knew what a pipe wrench was. As it was a 20,000-gallon tank I had to go rent a huge tow behind air compressor (like you would use for a jack hammer)
I called my boss and told him it was leaking where the plugs threaded into the tank bungs, and I had taken them in and out used big wrenches and Teflon tape and 3 different kinds of pipe dope.
He told me to take out any plugs and bushings and replace them with 6" nipples and caps. I did that and it worked the first time and passed the test.
When I got back to the shop, he explained that sometimes when the bungs are welded in the tank, they may get more weld on one side than the other. The weld metal shrinks when it cools and makes the bung not truly round maybe slightly oval. A plug or bushing being cast iron can't conform to the hole, so it leaks.
Putting in a long nipple and a cap give the nipple a chance to "go oval" and conform to the shape of the bung.
That is why bushings and plugs tend to leak, not always their problem it's what it is being threaded into. Same think with close nipples.
I learned my lesson once about bushings and pipe plugs. MA used to have their own oil code which required the manufacturer to pressure test their oil tanks to 5psi. (both inside and underground tanks) I know for a fact some did not do this.
Working for an oil company back in the day we installed a lot of tanks. Everything from 275s up to 20,000 gallons and 50 years ago New England was 80% heated by oil.
In MA. the local Fire Dept. is responsible for oil burner and tank inspections. We had one town that would make us pressure test any underground tank after it was set in place but before being backfilled.
The Chiefs reasoning was even if it was factory tested it could have been damaged on the road or while being set in place. The tank companies you to have the big tanks delivered on a low bed tractor trailer. The driver would show up with a bunch of used tires and a rope. He would tie the rope to the tank lifting lugs and around the trailer tie down to act as a pulley and push the tank off onto the used tires .
Back to the bushings and plugs. So I had one to test and it would not hold 5 psi after being set in place and the GC was getting on my nerves about wanting to backfill and the fire chief was scheduled to show up after lunch and at 19 years old I barely knew what a pipe wrench was. As it was a 20,000-gallon tank I had to go rent a huge tow behind air compressor (like you would use for a jack hammer)
I called my boss and told him it was leaking where the plugs threaded into the tank bungs, and I had taken them in and out used big wrenches and Teflon tape and 3 different kinds of pipe dope.
He told me to take out any plugs and bushings and replace them with 6" nipples and caps. I did that and it worked the first time and passed the test.
When I got back to the shop, he explained that sometimes when the bungs are welded in the tank, they may get more weld on one side than the other. The weld metal shrinks when it cools and makes the bung not truly round maybe slightly oval. A plug or bushing being cast iron can't conform to the hole, so it leaks.
Putting in a long nipple and a cap give the nipple a chance to "go oval" and conform to the shape of the bung.
That is why bushings and plugs tend to leak, not always their problem it's what it is being threaded into. Same think with close nipples.
Re: Radiant System not heating
Water out of the expansion tank? Where? There should be an air valve on the tank -- a Schrader valve, on the end opposite the connection to the plumbing. If you got water out there, the tank is done and you need a new one...
