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Re: Peerless 63 distributor/wholesaler
Appreciate it but at 4 and 1/2 hours each way, I think I will have to pass. I will need to make the trek to New Jersey. Even an hour and 15 minutes, is more than us spoiled New Yorkers like to travel.
Re: Gas piping
Town of North hempstead,N Y
Spoke an inspector today. He said he would not pass any union unless it's after a valve near an appliance. He could show me in any books though.
Spoke an inspector today. He said he would not pass any union unless it's after a valve near an appliance. He could show me in any books though.
347
1
Re: R-32
@EdTheHeaterMan Sorry, I know what everything in the song means, but still do not see any relation to the thread.Have you ever known anyone that does not know what everything in the songs mean?
Perhaps it's just over my head.
Or do only associate with motor heads?
Have you ever known anybody that does not understand thermodynamics, Hydronics and Refrigeration jargon? Or do you only associate with persons in our industry?
This attempt as sarcastic comedy relief however, is not all about you. As a matter of fact the joke was for everyone else except you. But it is nice that you shared your question about associating different aspects of the world with other aspects of the world and how they can not possibly have a correlation. We like when you chime in on this forum. Sometimes your opinions and information are actually helpful.
Thanks for pointing out that motor head jargon and trade jargon has nothing to do with each other. Unless you just look at the fact that it is jargon ...and all I said was that one jargon reminds me of the other jargon
Thanks for sharing
Edit: BTW, Betty Davis has nothing to do with cars or refrigerant, but it was a little funny.
Re: R-32
I'm at a complete loss..... How does refrigerant relate to 1960s cars / hot rods?. Hey Chris, I did an edit to explain the reference to the numbers on refrigerants numbers and 1960 hot rod numbers. Both sets of numbers need to have inside information on what those numbers actually mean. My sister would be clueless on what any of the refrig. or motor head numbers mean. But they all make sense to the trade that uses them. Look above at the edit
Here is another reference to unrelated topics:
The unitary products manufacturers have found the goose that lays the golden egg.
I remember gasoline at 24 cents a gallon. Then the 1970s happened, the price of fuel skyrocketed over 80 cents a gallon. The politician's step in to save the day and the price settled around 50 cents a gallon. The American people were satisfied to pay double the previous price. A few years later another oil crisis and fuel shot up over $1.50 per gallon, the politicians stepped in again to save the day and we were satisfied to pay about a dollar a gallon. This trend has made fuel cost over $4.00 per gallon and brought it back to $3.00 per gallon just recently. And we are going to live with the new higher price.
Anytime the fuel suppliers need to raise the price, just blame some geopolitical crisis and let the cost go way over what you really want, then drop it back to where they want it to be. Then America will be satisfied that someone reels in "Big Oil". But the price ends up higher each time.
About 25+ years ago the end of R-22 was in sight. The normal practice of installing an indoor coil or air handler and having up to 4 outdoor units connected to it over the lifetime of the furnace or air handler, came to an end. Can’t mix R-410a outdoor units with a R-22 indoor coil. Must replace the complete matched system. Now that those original R-410a units are getting to be 20+ years old, Those outdoor units might be replaced with another R410a unit. You can connect them to the existing indoor coil. But we can't have that… We must develop a newer, better refrigerant, so that you can't just swap out the condenser. We need to sell matched systems. More larger ticket parts. Make sure it is not compatible with anything they already have. This is a guarantee that every new condenser must have a matching indoor unit.
That is the golden egg. Planned refrigerant obsolescence!
Re: Carrier nears over $12 bln deal for German manufacturer Viessmann
Counting down until Viessmann's product quality starts dropping faster than the rate of new natural gas hookups: 3,2,1...
Re: Heat extraction from deep well
When implementing a drilled well for a heat pump it is a semi open loop.
Why build a heat exchanger when you can purchase a heat exchanger from the MESABI radiator people?
The well water used in the heat pump has to be pulled from the bottom to extract the energy from it and allowed to settle to the bottom and become cooled again.
Using a single 2 pipe jet pump pitless adapter is the simplest way to do this. All you need to do is let the return to well water pass through the lower jet pump pitless adapter and drain back into the well.
You do not need 2 pitless adapters for this.
Why build a heat exchanger when you can purchase a heat exchanger from the MESABI radiator people?
The well water used in the heat pump has to be pulled from the bottom to extract the energy from it and allowed to settle to the bottom and become cooled again.
Using a single 2 pipe jet pump pitless adapter is the simplest way to do this. All you need to do is let the return to well water pass through the lower jet pump pitless adapter and drain back into the well.
You do not need 2 pitless adapters for this.
leonz
1
Re: Heat extraction from deep well
You are going to waste good money doing what you propose.
You should be using the "Semi Open Loop Method" for heat exchange with black or blue polyethylene pipe and a submersible pump with a two tapping jet pump sanitary seal in the well casing to allow the well water to be returned to the well in the lower tapping of the sanitary seal.
Any water pumped out of the well will be returned to the well as hot water and sink back to the bottom
of the well to be chilled by the surrounding rock/gravel
The polyethylene pipe should have a check valve for every 100 feet of depth.
The deep well submersible pump has a check valve in the top of the 220 volt single phase submersible pump turbine stack.
The pipe string will need a torque arrestor, pump pulling rope, 2 wire pump wire and poly pipe centering discs that center the poly pipe in the well casing and also hold the pump wire in place to prevent it from being damaged while lifting the pump string out of the well and lowering the pump string in the well.
What is the static water level?
What is the pumping water level?
What is the actual well depth?
What is the pumping water level?
What is the drawdown? The drawdown is the difference between the pumping water level and the static water level.
How deep is the actual well casing??
Does the well have a well screen below the casing?
Is the well casing sunk in bedrock or glacial till/gravel?
Does the well water have colloidal clay in it?
We need more information from you for this.
You should be using the "Semi Open Loop Method" for heat exchange with black or blue polyethylene pipe and a submersible pump with a two tapping jet pump sanitary seal in the well casing to allow the well water to be returned to the well in the lower tapping of the sanitary seal.
Any water pumped out of the well will be returned to the well as hot water and sink back to the bottom
of the well to be chilled by the surrounding rock/gravel
The polyethylene pipe should have a check valve for every 100 feet of depth.
The deep well submersible pump has a check valve in the top of the 220 volt single phase submersible pump turbine stack.
The pipe string will need a torque arrestor, pump pulling rope, 2 wire pump wire and poly pipe centering discs that center the poly pipe in the well casing and also hold the pump wire in place to prevent it from being damaged while lifting the pump string out of the well and lowering the pump string in the well.
What is the static water level?
What is the pumping water level?
What is the actual well depth?
What is the pumping water level?
What is the drawdown? The drawdown is the difference between the pumping water level and the static water level.
How deep is the actual well casing??
Does the well have a well screen below the casing?
Is the well casing sunk in bedrock or glacial till/gravel?
Does the well water have colloidal clay in it?
We need more information from you for this.
leonz
2
Re: sump pump
Years ago, when I was a volunteer fireman, our local Methodist Parsonage had some sort of sump pump failure. The Pastor came to the fire station asking for help. He had about a foot of water in the basement, and no way to cut power. Being young and dumb(er), I put on a pair of rubber waders, sloshed across the basement and stuck a broom handle down the sump pit to jiggle the float. The pump took off. As I started up the stairs, the Pastor - who was a kindly older man - put his hand on my shoulder and said "I was praying for your safety, son. The last thing we need is an electrocuted Catholic boy in this basement"
To the post, I prefer a GFCI in the breaker box for sump pumps and sewage ejectors. I know this isn't always possible, but a separate circuit with GFCI at the panel has saved me from a few problems. Also, at the pump, I like a single (not duplex) receptacle. Keeps the dehumidifier, deep freeze, radio, or whatever from getting plugged in there.
To the post, I prefer a GFCI in the breaker box for sump pumps and sewage ejectors. I know this isn't always possible, but a separate circuit with GFCI at the panel has saved me from a few problems. Also, at the pump, I like a single (not duplex) receptacle. Keeps the dehumidifier, deep freeze, radio, or whatever from getting plugged in there.
Re: R-32
Well @EBEBRATT-Ed , there are pros and cons. I like the perspectives that having years on the planet bring. Also, I'm no longer getting dissed for being a kid... Still, I'm not sure what to think when they offer to carry my groceries out to the car, when I carried them up to the checkout. Guess there's humor everywhere.
Yours, Larry
Yours, Larry
Re: A/C started then stopped, thermostat went offline
Should be a 3 or 5 Amp fuse on the circuit board in the furnace. If that is blown then I would open up the electrical compartment in the outdoor unit and check for mouse nests or chewed up wires.
The fuse in the furnace control board did what it was designed to do.Thank you! I opened the air handler, the 3 amp fuse was dead so I changed to a new one. However, as soon as I turned the AC on, the fuse was blown again. What should I do next?
Check to see all the wiring is correct, then check for shorts.
The heat works so it seems to be on the A/C circuit.
If you take the cover off the outdoor unit to check, pull the disconnect first.
Any splices between the thermostat and control board?