Best Of
Re: Well... we gotta leak.
Tom. Have a little faith in yourself. Its highly unlikely you'll have another leak like that from your soldered joints. It would've happened already. Mad Dog
Re: Question about Erie zone valve
Whatever was causing it, opening the pipes to install the new zone valves and refilling the system has solved the problem… so far. It’s only been a few days of spring weather here, not much call for heat.
Re: How can I use 90 F degree water to heat my new house?
So… we have two critical paperwork steps here. First, does this property have the necessary rights to use enough water? For those unfamiliar with Western water law — like anyone east of the Mississippi! — it is well to remember that just because there is water on a property — or beneath it — does NOT mean that the property owner has the right to use it! Water rights (and mineral rights for that matter) do NOT run with the land.
Then second, how much heat does this place need? Can water at that temperature (85 F mean temp) provide that much heat with a reasonable surface area?
Answer those two, then we can begin think about practicalities…
Re: How can I use 90 F degree water to heat my new house?
If you were to use the hot spring with a heat pump you have to understand that if you have an oil leak or refrigerant leak it will contaminate the hot spring.
What you need in order to make use of the heat from the hot spring is to use an insulated buffer tank to store hot water and also deliver it to the home using multiple copper coils in the large storage tank,
Using 2 small circulators where one can feed the hot water from the spring to the tank and the other feeding the hot water from the copper coils to cast iron or steel tube radiators with the cooler water allowed to drain back to the hot spring.
The thermal mass built into the cast iron or steel tube radiators along with the thermal mass in the water from the hot spring can be used to its fullest advantage.
Re: Augusta Stone Church
With the boiler being that much oversized you probably smart to change it out.
If the run is not too long maybe a HW zone off the steamer would work for the offices. But if not much load electric you can't beat the simplicity and lack of needed maintenance.
Re: Blower vibration issue and ideas?
I had a bad vibration on a sidedraft blower that was audible throughout the house. It was kind of a bad resonance between the blower and another component (IIRC, the electrical box, but it doesn't matter exactly). I "fixed" it by placing a one- or two-lb weight on the vibrating part. (I used a C-clamp.) This shifted the resonant frequency, and greatly reduced my audible vibration.
Re: Augusta Stone Church
the independence is the model that always rots above the water line
Re: Augusta Stone Church
I heard from Beckett today and they said that the boiler could be down fired to 3.25 gph @ 140 psi = 3.85 gph, 539,000 btus. That’s still twice the size needed (265,000).
I’m looking at removing this beast and installing a Megasteam MST892 which would be a precise match to the radiation and maybe less in cost than fixing this nightmare.
Ironman
Re: Well... we gotta leak.
Without re-soldering it, I would silver braze right over it. As long as you're not going to burn anything next to it, its the fastest, easiest fix here. Mad Dog
Re: Well... we gotta leak.
on large sizes like that you can pre-tin the tube and fitting. Basically wiping solder around the pipe and fitting first, then assemble.
If it is no too close to other fittings you could silver solder over the fitting.
Blockade is a good rod for that use.
hot_rod


