Best Of
Re: Question about gas valve placement on the main inside a house, allowed or not?
some gas utilities use a gas cock that can be turned off with a tool, aka Cresent wrench, but cannot be turned back on without a special tool. There is a pin on the backside that needs to depress. I think Michigan requires this type of valve at the meter.

Re: Estimated life expectancy?
I think you had it right Bob, you were talking about the 3 pass MegaSteam.
The others are talking about Burnham's latest gas atmospheric boilers.

Re: why "lime scale remover" for fireside cleaning?
Lye is "Kryptonite" to aluminum. I tried to store wood-ashes in an aluminum vat. They got wet—being outside, and uncovered—and the bottom 1/3 of the vat disappeared. An inadvertent experiment, but very instructive.
Re: Turn Down and Condensing
The damper probably covers the a high jet or high air passage so a low jet can handle the small flows sort of how you use 2 mixing valves in parallel for a wide range of flow rates.

Re: Turn Down and Condensing
Keep in mind Patterson Kelly boilers start at 300,000 BTU/hr. They play mostly in the 750,000 and up range.
A few points I would mention. He talks about the need for turbulent conditions in both the gas side and the water side. In residential sized systems, piping below 1-1/4" that would be a very low flow condition. Somewhere below .5 gpm in copper tube to go laminar.
He mentioned that modulating boilers are mainly used to correct a piping or design deficiency. I think in residential work they are more to address zoned and micro-zoned systems. Again PK deals with larger commercial systems, so that may be more of their market, solving problem jobs.
For years now we have been suggesting all hydronic systems should be designed to supply a design load at 120 SWT! So that keeps you in condensing range, 90+ fairly easily. In his example you may see flue gas a few degrees above return, now approaching 99% efficiencies!
Although when I suggested 120 max. SWT, Robert Bean asked me why not 110 or 120. Always a step ahead, that boy:) His crystal ball was already presenting A2WHP potentials.
I think the damper you see in mod cons is how they get above 10-1, the gas valve doesn't really modulate down so low, they start to chock off the air flow as he mention. That is why cleaning and keeping those dampers moving is an important part of mod con service.
As far as 20-1 and higher, that is often two 10-1 boilers inside the jacket, both running 10-1, not necessarily one HX modulating that range. Or a HX like the Sermeta DUO 260K and up.
I though he did a great job of making the presentation understandable.

New vs. Old Burnham Independence
We've installed a number of Burnham SteamMax boilers.
But does anyone know if the Independence boilers sold today are any different from the Independence sold ten years ago which suffered from graphitic corrosion ? Has Burnham modified their Independence in any way?
Since the passing of Glen Stanton, we haven't built any close relationship with US Boiler's engineering folks who can give us an answer.
Anyone know? Just for the record, we've got a whole bunch of Independence boilers with no corrosion problems that we've installed some 19 years ago.
Re: Bathroom Remodel - Some Basic Insulation Questions for Radiant Floor
Thanks for the responses, I'll try and answer some of your questions.
The bathroom is 50sqft, 28sqft of heated floor. The bathroom is on the 2nd floor of a two story 60 year old house and the space beneath is heated living space. The bathroom is currently heated like the rest of the house with forced air but due to some renovations below I need to remove the duct that supplies the bathroom. I haven't done a full manual J but chatgpt helped me come up with about 900 BTU/hr, but that number presumed adequate insulation in the floor.
The roth panels you mentioned look like they'd do the trick. Unfortunately I can't find anywhere online to buy them, so I'm guessing they're one of those B2B contractor only companies where I'd have to jump through all kinds of hoops with a sales person, so I'm going to stick with the uponor products that are easily available and seem to be competitively priced.
Re: Bathroom Remodel - Some Basic Insulation Questions for Radiant Floor
Floor warming, or trying to actually heat the space? A room with no other heat source?
Is it over a cold crawl space? Why is there no insulation in the joist bays now? The heat load of the room will depend on what is below, a heated or cold space.
The panels with foam work well for over the top. Roth for example, although other brands are available now.
The Roth panel lets you use 6" OC spacing, 3/8" tube for easy installation.

Re: Bathroom Remodel - Some Basic Insulation Questions for Radiant Floor
How many square feet is the bathroom? How old is the house? What’s heating it now? Have you done a Manual J load calculation to determine the actual heat loss?
