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Re: Low return water temp protection methods
The circulator should pump away from the expansion tank so it adds it's pressure differential to the system.
It does not need to be on the supply side of the boiler. In fact some high head mod cons prefer you pump into the boiler.
The air purger works best at the supply, the hottest water in the system.
But the expansion tank does not need to be below the purger either, as you show.w
it is also preferred to pump away from a 3 way mix valve, so it pulls the hot and cold through the valve.
The red and blue water to get to purple :)
It will work great as shown
The pump does not push water into the expansion tank! Where would that water come from? There would be less water somewhere in the piping if the pump was to push water into the tank.
The expansion tank connection into the system establishes the PONPC point of no pressure change, the pump cannot effect that.
Water enters an expansion tank from the expansion of the water as it is heats, volume increases, or comes out as the water cools.
hot_rod
Re: Would Like to Separate Upstairs and Downstairs Heat & Hot Water
Just a thought , fuel is burned to replace the heat that was lost .. The basement normally is subteraiaian with minimum heat loss . Most of the heat loss rises to the main floor and warms the floor anyway … Is it worth the cost of separating the heating fuel other then a electric meter or roll it into the rent ….
Zoning yes , every floor and addition should have its own zone for comfort ..
Big Ed_4
Re: Replacing gas Navien boiler with electric boiler for hydronic heat?
there are actually controls that can switch back and forth between the propane and electric. Both when you have available PV, or if you have off peak rates.
I’m in Utah on Rocky Mountain Power. Their TOU, time of use program has 6.0 Oct-May, 7.1 June- Sept.
See if your utility has a program.
Then go here and. Insert the costs.
Make sure the cost is actual delivered cost with all the tax and fees.
LP is a fickle fuel to get a price on, as you may know
https://coalpail.com/fuel-comparison-calculator-home-heating
hot_rod
Re: Augusta Stone Church
@leonz , one would need to check local regulations to see if coal-fired boilers have been outlawed due to air pollution. I know in Baltimore they are prohibited, and have been since the late 1960s.
Re: How can I use 90 F degree water to heat my new house?
It looks to me on casual research that they can handle 90 degrees. Some can go to 120 it appears.
Even if they couldn't, I would consider some kind of bypass loop that recirculated some of the water exiting the heat pump back into the supply in order to moderate/cool the incoming temperature. That nice warm water is too valuable to ignore IMO
Re: Augusta Stone Church
I heard from Beckett today and they said that the boiler could be down fired to 3.25 gph @ 140 psi = 3.85 gph, 539,000 btus. That’s still twice the size needed (265,000).
I’m looking at removing this beast and installing a Megasteam MST892 which would be a precise match to the radiation and maybe less in cost than fixing this nightmare.
Ironman
Re: Richardson
You'll want to choose the trap carefully, since the vent holes in Richardson return elbows are rather small. I'd use a Hoffman 17C with a Dura-Stat inside (which current models have) since the air throughput of the DuraStat is lower than usual.
Re: Would Like to Separate Upstairs and Downstairs Heat & Hot Water
While you can split thing most place will not allow you to have a separate sub meter for billing purposes.
The easiest way with a small house would be to put the basement on its own electric water heater and electric baseboard heat and have them pay their own electric bill by splitting the electric service with two panels.
But it may not be so simple to convince the town to allow a two family house
Re: Burnham v8 no start.
@joea99 I agree that you may be able to reset it once, and if it runs for a month before needing another reset, then the next time you have no heat a month later, it would probably be acceptable to reset it once again. Your post did not indicate that, so I assumed the worst.
Back when I started working on oil burners, the primary safety control was a “stack switch.” The most common one was the Honeywell RA-117 with a 90-second safety timing. Think about that for a minute—actually, a minute and a half (LOL). If your oil burner was running for 90 seconds with no flame because of weak ignition, and you had to reset it three or four times before the burner finally lit off, all that extra unburned oil would accumulate in the chamber. There could be a substantial BOOM when it finally ignited.
That is why I still have a stack of “RESET ONLY ONCE” stickers on the shelf—although the glue may be dried up by now. Situations like that happened more than once with both customers and mechanics from the 1940s through the 1970s.
Later controls improved safety by reducing the timing to 45 seconds. That was a big improvement. Your control only allows 15 seconds to prove ignition, which is considered the gold standard today. In fact, if someone still has a 45-second safety control on their oil burner, we strongly recommend replacing it with a safer 15-second control like yours.
So if I sounded a little extreme, that is because my younger brother ended up in the burn unit after repairing an oil burner where professional boiler operators had ignored an ignition problem for an entire week. Three shifts of boiler operators had recorded the same note in the logbook every day:
“Boiler #3 not operating / Reset once / Still not operating.”
Day shift, night shift, and graveyard shift all did the same thing for a week. That is 21 resets with no flame (but only once a day by each boiler operator. At the end of the week, the supervisor reviewed the logbook and asked, “Why has this not been addressed? Call the oil company and get this repaired.”
My brother found a bad ignition transformer and replaced it. While looking through the fire door to verify ignition, he started the burner. With all that extra oil built up in the chamber, the delayed ignition blew out his eyebrows and mustache and gave him a glowing sunburn in the middle of winter.
Thankfully, he recovered completely. His eyebrows eventually grew back, although he is permanently bald now—but I believe that has more to do with age than the burns he suffered that day.
And if you look at my previous post, the control itself does include a warning label.
So I am an alarmist when it comes to reset buttons.
Re: How to get ash auger out?
that brick collum needs work.
do not bump it removing that beast.
pecmsg