Best Of
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
Piping is horrible. No two ways about it. Maybe try to get the manufacturer involved
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
For me, he’s either BSing, or just doesn’t know. I question the knowledge when they can’t size it correctly. There are generous factors built into those rating to cover piping. A properly sized IN4 has enough factor for 140’ of 2” piping. I’m going to guess you don’t have close to that. With the IN6, it’s hundreds of feet. Are you planning on adding an addition to the house and expand the system? If not the additional radiators comment makes no sense. Also made me chuckle, like he’s making future plans for your house, on your behalf.
One step at a time makes no sense. The piping is wrong, it’s not really a discussion topic, there’s a picture in the manual showing what’s correct and that isn’t it. So is this like trial piping and he’s going to rip it out and do it over as part of the process? That wouldn’t make sense at all.
I would also suggest you contact Burnham about them disconnecting 2 burners. That very likely will void the warranty for the boiler if the contractor didn’t get their approval for it. To be very clear on this comment, you contact Burnham, I wouldn’t take the contractors word for it.
My assessment, they are doing a few things to cover up until you go away out of frustration. And yes, I’m sure they are being super nice while they are doing it. Nice won’t make it work.
This lack of knowledge in my area is why I ended up replacing my own boiler, I just had zero confidence in any of the local contractors.
I wish you luck.
Re: Have You Ever Left a Tool Behind?
Oh dam, I forgot about this one and it was bad, real bad.
I went on a service call late in the day to troubleshoot some electric heaters in a large AHU at a college.
Around 4:30 I was finishing up and packing up my tools and the maintenance guy kept bugging me and bugging me he wanted to lock up and go home "I am not getting paid for this" he kept saying. "Just write me out a slip so I can sign it".
I used to carry my tools in a big electrician's pouch with a belt over my shoulder. (never should have still have neck and shoulder issues")
So, I run out to my truck with my tools and hang the belt on the passenger side mirror (big mistake). Grabbed a slip went back in the building and filled it out and had him sign it.
Back to the truck, yup drove off with the belt on the mirror. Never found it (or someone stole it off the mirror when I went back inside) Lost a meter a Fluke 52 thermometer and all the tools.
Never realized it until I got to the first job the next morning and looked in the truck. Where the F…are my tools?
Oh ****.
Went back to that job and thought I might at least find a screwdriver or something in the parking lot. No dice.
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
In my experience with combustion analysis anywhere in the 200 degree range. I used to do a lot of fan assisted furnaces and they would run anywhere from 225-275 temp range. And if they used single wall flue you would always see corrosion at the joints. Nobody would use B-vent as recommended in the instruction manual because they wouldn't bother to read the manual. thats the range i would see most damage but its just from testing
Re: Taco SR501 not turning off consistently
@EdTheHeaterMan I like that illustration above and think it should be posted somewhere on this forum for instructional purposes. I don't think the physical wiring is often considered when troubleshooting. It can be one of the harder parts to replace though. Good job here.
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
All boilers should be checked for combustion. I'm just saying it is very different checking this style of boiler now that they have removed most of the adjustments then it is checking high efficiency boilers or power burners.
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
There isn't anything you can adjust on that boiler besides supply pressure to the burner. Excess air is going to be ridiculous. But as long as it doesn't soot up no one will notice or care besides the poor owner. But it is still cheaper than buying a new boiler. Becoming a less idealistic these days. I understand why old tradespeople are grumpy more every day.
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
Advice is get boiler properly piped as best as you can with the copper supply pipes of the system. Drop the pressure of the steam. Then plug one burner orifice and see if it is liveable in operation. If not plug a second one. This is what needs done if the original installer won't replace boiler with the proper size boiler. The horse left the barn, I can't worry about the door now.
Re: System 2000 / radiators won't cool off / boiler ignores thermostat
If you take the actuator off and you can't turn the shaft easily with your fingers, it's done. Drain the water pressure out of the zone, remove the four 5/16" bolts installed the new components from the new zone valve. This is a very common problem with the Honeywell zone valves. I replace a few of them every week this time of year. I never see them used on EK boilers and I imagine this is why. EK boilers usually have Erie or Caleffi zone valves.
I would recommend replacing the 3/4" automatic air vent and checking the pressure on the air bladder in the expansion tank while you have the boiler drained down. That way you don't have any other problems after replacing the zone valve. This is just a couple of the things that would be done if you called a good professional to take care of this.
Re: System 2000 / radiators won't cool off / boiler ignores thermostat
If you have the Erie 2 wire zone valves, they're easy to pop off. You can interchange 2 actuators to see if the problem switches to the other zone, or stays in the same zone. If it switches, it's the actuator. If it stays, the zone valve body needs replacement.
Turn off the power. Use the levers on the zone valves to manually open and lock into place. The side of the actuator has a button. Press it, and it just pops off. No water involved.
You'll have to swap the wires at the Z terminals as well.
HVACNUT

