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Re: How to size my Circulator pump ?
On a residential system we usually select the Pump Head by the longest run method. That is the farthest the pump has to overcome the friction of the piping. So use the length of the loop from the outlet side of the pump, to the manifold, then from the manifold to the radiator that has the longest travel to get there, then follow that back to the manifold and then back to the circulator.
You mentioned 300 feet of 1/2" PEX. Is that all the PEX or are you actually running 300 feet of PEX to one of the radiators? I’m assuming that you are cutting up that PEX into shorter lengths to get to each radiator.
Let’s say that you have about 60 feet of 1” PEX from the boiler to the manifold. Then you have another 50 geet of ½” PEX to the farthest radiator. (room #11) That would be a total of 110 feet from the boiler to the radiator. The return path would also be 110 feet. So, you have a total of 220 feet of pipe friction to consider. Now add to that a factor of 50% for the equivalent length for all the fittings and the manifolds. That comes to 330 feet total equivalent length for the longest path. (if the pump can do the longest path, all the shorter ones will be easier to do.)
To keep the system from being noisy, we design to a 4 feet of head for every 100 feet of equivalent length. So the equation will look like this:
- Total length of pipe for the longest run
- Add 50% to that for the total equivalent length (220 x 1.5)
- Multiply that by .04
- This is your pump head.
In this example given above you need a pump that will deliver the GPM required at a pump head of 13.2
If you could locate the manifold closer to the boiler , or perhaps central to the home so that room #11 is not so far away, then you could cut down on the amount of Pump Head required.
- Since your shared piping is 1", then I'm assuming the you do not need any more than 8 gallons per minute. (ask me why)
- That means that your pump needs to develop a flow of 8 GPM at 13.2 ft of head
- The maximum Head for the Alpha 15 pump is 19 feet head and the maximum GPM is a little over 13 GPM that pump looks fine, but a closer at the performance curve shown that at 8 GPM the maximum pump heat available is 12. So you will want to use less tubing in some fashion on that longest run, or use less GPM which means less BTUh. BTW That problem will only show up on the coldest days because you only need maximum performance when it is at design temperature. At higher outdoor temperatures the system will be able to keep up just fine
By the way… Room # 9 has no return pipe to the manifold, that room's gonna be cold this winter.
Re: How to size my Circulator pump ?
I’m not sure from your description if you’re saying the combined length of all your loops is 300’ or that’s what each one is.
You’re not gonna get 2 gpm from a 1/2 loop, particularly if it’s 300’, more like 1/2 gpm.
A pump is selected by the required gpm and the resistance (head) it must overcome.
The gpm is determined by the btus required at a specific delta T (usually 20* for baseboard).
The head is determined by the size, type and length of piping at the required gpm. You only use the longest run of piping in a parallel system to determine head plus the fittings, valves, etc.
Once the required gpm and the head are determined, that is compared to the pump manufacturer’s pump curve for the circulator being considered to see if it meets the requirements. You wanna stay within the middle 1/3rd of the performance chart when selecting a circulator.

Re: Buderas motorized exhaust question
It shouldn’t allow the burner to fire if it’s not fully opened, so something is seriously amiss.
No, I don’t see any way that you can safely bypass it under those circumstances.

Re: Ecobee pro rebooting
If it was ever shorted… poof. However, if you are getting that 28 VAC at the terminals for the Ecobee, the transformer — and wiring is at least intact. However — and this is hard to check — if there is a bad connection in any of the wires, or if one of the wires has been chewed to the point where it is hanging by a thread, that can introduce enough resistance to drop the voltage low enough to cause problems. Check all the connections for being clean and tight.
Re: How Do HVAC Contractors (and Customers) Navigate All The Chain Companies?
I am familiar with this trend. Some of those Mom and Pop companies have even kept their original names and connected with the "Chain Gangs". I owned a sole proprietor (actually registered as LLC) that I ran with my son. I had several competitors that were "affiliated". They all seemed to offer you a 3 tier price Good, Better, Best, to get just about everything done from replacing a thermocouple to installing an entire system. The goal is to upsell everyone. And taken at its base philosophy it is a great business plan as long as the leadership of the company offers reasonable “GOOD” options that were actually available for the less fortunate income wise.
The problem is that when the owners join up and take the “How to run a Successful Contractor Business” meetings they see profits and become bean counters and break away from the thing their parents started 30 years ago. “Customer Service”
The bottom line is that if you find a Mom & Pop outfit, they will probably go out of business within 10 years. that is because the good technician is not always the good business man. He has the knowledge to fix your stuff but is not as good at balancing the books. With the friends that I had in the business, I was able to find some of the secrets that make the big boys profitable, and incorporate those ideas into my small business.
If nothing else, the owner will get old and not have anyone to pass the business on to. So here I am in my disabled state, sharing my experience.
Re: Troubleshooting a mystery... leak/flow reported with no physical leak found. Expansion Tank/Indirect
My bet would be a toilet tank float valve. It won't be the main valve (likely), but either the level in the tank set just a tad too high, and overflowing through the overflow, or more likely the float valve not quite shutting off and discharging through the tube which goes to the overflow. You won't hear that, and you won't see it in the bowl, either.
If it's the bowl recharge line from the float valve, food colouring in the tank won't show you that.
Re: Troubleshooting a mystery... leak/flow reported with no physical leak found. Expansion Tank/Indirect
Try food coloring in your toilet tanks to make sure they aren't running? Sometimes its so minor you cant hear it.

Re: Cleaning/Descaling Indirect Water Heater-Or is it too rusty?
Hi, Look for flex connectors that look like this: You want them to have the plastic sleeve between tube and nut. That along with the rubber washer inside makes them real dielectrics. If you took an ohm meter you would find no continuity between nut and tube. This sort of flex along with nearly any other brass or stainless fittings will work. 😊
Yours, Larry
Re: Beckett furnace orange flakes
You have a Sales Oriented service provider now.
Time to find a Service Provider.

Re: Beckett furnace orange flakes
Doesn't leak? Runs fine? Been that way for a while? New provider? Pity the new provider is a salesman resorting to fear. I don't have much use for those folks.
Can you find a different provider?