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Re: Taco SR501 not turning off consistently
@EdTheHeaterMan I like that illustration above and think it should be posted somewhere on this forum for instructional purposes. I don't think the physical wiring is often considered when troubleshooting. It can be one of the harder parts to replace though. Good job here.
epmiller
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
All boilers should be checked for combustion. I'm just saying it is very different checking this style of boiler now that they have removed most of the adjustments then it is checking high efficiency boilers or power burners.
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
There isn't anything you can adjust on that boiler besides supply pressure to the burner. Excess air is going to be ridiculous. But as long as it doesn't soot up no one will notice or care besides the poor owner. But it is still cheaper than buying a new boiler. Becoming a less idealistic these days. I understand why old tradespeople are grumpy more every day.
Re: New Boiler - Radiator Screaming
Advice is get boiler properly piped as best as you can with the copper supply pipes of the system. Drop the pressure of the steam. Then plug one burner orifice and see if it is liveable in operation. If not plug a second one. This is what needs done if the original installer won't replace boiler with the proper size boiler. The horse left the barn, I can't worry about the door now.
Re: System 2000 / radiators won't cool off / boiler ignores thermostat
If you take the actuator off and you can't turn the shaft easily with your fingers, it's done. Drain the water pressure out of the zone, remove the four 5/16" bolts installed the new components from the new zone valve. This is a very common problem with the Honeywell zone valves. I replace a few of them every week this time of year. I never see them used on EK boilers and I imagine this is why. EK boilers usually have Erie or Caleffi zone valves.
I would recommend replacing the 3/4" automatic air vent and checking the pressure on the air bladder in the expansion tank while you have the boiler drained down. That way you don't have any other problems after replacing the zone valve. This is just a couple of the things that would be done if you called a good professional to take care of this.
Re: System 2000 / radiators won't cool off / boiler ignores thermostat
If you have the Erie 2 wire zone valves, they're easy to pop off. You can interchange 2 actuators to see if the problem switches to the other zone, or stays in the same zone. If it switches, it's the actuator. If it stays, the zone valve body needs replacement.
Turn off the power. Use the levers on the zone valves to manually open and lock into place. The side of the actuator has a button. Press it, and it just pops off. No water involved.
You'll have to swap the wires at the Z terminals as well.
HVACNUT
Re: System 2000 / radiators won't cool off / boiler ignores thermostat
Purchase this:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Home-40003916-026-Replacement-Head-for-V8043E-Zone-Valves
Use a T10 to remove and reinstall. Two screws………10 minutes and you're done.
LRCCBJ
Re: System 2000 / radiators won't cool off / boiler ignores thermostat
@KyleO If I recall the ZVs on those systems are honeywell. If I am correct you can simple replace the ball and stem without removing the whole valve. I say simply but you will have to isolate and drain the loop. Much easier than replacing the whole valve.
Honeywell, Inc. 40003918006 Honeywell Zone Valve conversion kit
Grallert
Re: No 1 Ideal Sectional Boiler from American Radiator Company on house built in 1926
Yep, pivot needs to be parallel to the floor.
Re: No 1 Ideal Sectional Boiler from American Radiator Company on house built in 1926
that pivot needs to be mounted level across, your's looks cocked, the damper will slide to the low side and bind, again,
the wired device on top is a backdraft sensor, when heated it will/should shut down the burner
neilc