Best Of
Re: Water leak problems installing cast iron baseboard
😲😲😲
I'd call Burnham. That's a serious QC issue.
Re: Water leak problems installing cast iron baseboard
I'd use RTV like @Ironman suggested if it is leaking.
mattmia2
Re: Water leak problems installing cast iron baseboard
Did you use the draw tool to assemble them?
Did you lubricate the nipples? We use RTV and have never had a leak.
Ironman
Re: Water leak problems installing cast iron baseboard
Why not just follow what Burnham says? They have clearly written instructions for how to do this.
KC_Jones
Re: Seeking advise on Kitec
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/180531/radiant-floor-with-kitec
pecmsg
Re: Faucet brands
Compression means it uses a washer. The same faucet is available as compression or washerless by using a different cartridge. If you look on their web site you can select the different cartridge options and it will give you the part number for the faucet assembled with that cartridge. There are options like auto shut off cartridges and things like that too for different applications.
mattmia2
Re: What does "Wet Steam" mean to you?
Steam.
Dry Steam = Vapor gaseous state.
Wet Steam = Liquid water droplets mixed within the vapor gaseous state.
It applies to steam heating in both states of its existence as it is manipulated through the heating plant ie. boiler, and through the systems piping, changing state as it flows.
This is how I have explained it to customers and students in the past. And this is what it means to me.
Intplm.
Re: What does "Wet Steam" mean to you?
You do like to poke bears, don't you @ethicalpaul ? I don't like the term, as it is so non-specific. As someone noted, all of the heating steam we play with is saturated, which means that it is at the temperature and pressure at which water vapour is in equilibrium with liquid water. Thus, if you cool it (or expand it) some of the water vapour will condense to restore equilibrium
But…
This is not a problem (or shouldn't be!) as the resulting water droplets are invisible — too small — to either drop out of suspension or do anything particularly evil. Think puffy white clouds…
So I suppose I would only use the term if there were visible water droplets in the flow, big enough so that if the velocity is reduced they drop out by gravity or inertia.
Now does this affect the efficiency of the boiler and distribution? No, but it can be a symptom of problems (like poor near boiler piping, or lack of insulation in cold areas where heat isn't wanted) which do.
Re: Zone Valves BANG on opening only
Yes, the zone valves are NOT directional and they are the capacitor type. When the thermostat closes, the light flashes until it opens. They do close fast, but they do NOT hammer on closing, just opening. The check valve is my thought as well. Even though the Zone Circulator is at a 0 (zero) second post purge, there is a couple of seconds that it is running full out. Not only is is putting pressure against the zone valves and manifold, it is also pressurizing the expansion tank between the circulator and zone valves. I'm thinking the pressure is what is causing the BANG when they open. The installer is coming back out Monday morning to do some more troubleshooting, since all Circulators are properly isolated with ball valves, I may tell him to lose the check valve(s).
mikted1