Best Of
Re: Prevent mold in mini-split heads
proper sizing. Because they can ramp down doesn’t mean bigger is better.

Re: short cycling on combi boiler.
I don't see how a tank of any kind will increase the flow thru the tankless water heater. If you have a low flow shower that is put thru a tank, the flow out of the shower will not increase, that won't stop the short cycling. If you add a circulator pump to maintain a temperature in the tank then you may stop the short cycling but then you are storing hot water outside of the tankless water heater. Why would you want to do that?
The proper fix is to clean up all the parts in the system that have to do with the flow rate. The flow meter, the orifice plates in the shower head, and any other restriction there may be. It worked before when these items were new. Make them like new again and see if that does not solve your problem. Cleaning something is often less expensive than replacing or adding stuff to a system that has operated properly for years. What changes in a year or two from something new? Corrosion and build up of debris on parts. That is why we do maintenance. To keep stuff looking like new and operating like new.
Just my two cents. (that today, cost more than a nickel to produce)
Re: header and main piping configuration
the piping up in the ceiling is the header from 3 boilers ago, it should have been removed when the coal boiler was replaced.
it has places for condensate to collect which will stop or slow the steam at that point so the mains won't heat evenly. it is very likely you will have balance problems and problems with water hammer if you don't remove the old header and pipe each main separately to the new header. each riser should slope toward the main so the riser can't collect water. the tees should come off the top or off the side at a 45 from the header and you should use 45s to offset to connect the mains to the header. If the mains aren't parallel flow they need to be dripped before the header and all drips need to go below the water line before they connect.
the header should be connected i the order of:
riser(s) from boiler
risers from header to mains
equalizer.
the equalizer should reduce in the vertical either with a vertical reducer or reducing ell so it doesn't trap water in the header
you may need to make the header a u shape to get enough space for the fittings for all the mains.

Re: Another glitch on a steam install
Make sure they know you do steam.
That way when it's leaking in the near future you'll get the call.

Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
Looks like a 100 series. If the rubber bushings the motor is mounted in rot out it will misalign the shaft and start breaking couplings. Replace them when they get soft.
Is the system still set up as a gravity system, did anyone change any of the piping or the emitters? If it is not changed almost any circulator will work since it is designed to be gravity.

Re: Ladder standoffs for roofs
I agree with @LongBeach Ed
A little giant type ladder is the best investment you can make. I bought one 30 years ago and it does 95% of what you need.
When I was working I used it for everything almost indestructible. It will make a 19' extension ladder, 6'-9' stem ladder and on stairs its unbeatable. Safest ladder you can use. Well worth the price.
A Co-worker had one and at first I thought it was a "gimmick" a little heavy etc but after I used his I loved it.
There is another way. take a 2 x 6 or 2 x8 and span it across the porch roof supports up under the gutter. Secure it with screws and lean the ladder against it.
Or clamp the 2 x 6 with big C-Clamps
Other techs drove around with 6', 8' 10' step ladders and an extension ladder on their vans I just had my little giant that did it all. If I needed another ladder, I would grab one at the shop.
One of the best things I ever bought.
I even set it up like an A frame with a chain fall dropping down through the middle and picked up a 500# pump.
The 19" extension ladder would get you on most roofs.
A regular 24' extension ladder overlaps 3' so you only get 21' out of that.
Re: Laars MFTCW 199 Harmonic Noise
I can’t believe that tech support would advise you to do something as dumb as that.
As mentioned, it’s required that the boiler be set up with a combustion analyzer and set to factory specs.
By running it with the gas cock partially closed, you’ve probably created a situation that’s worn the burner and/or the electrodes out.

Re: Well pump issues
Has anyone checked the well itself? Over time, it is possible for the well screen to become clogged. This will result in the water level in the well dropping further than it did when it was new, and the pump performance will be affected since it has to lift the water farther. Another possibility is that the overall static ground water level has decreased over the years, with the same result.
Since this is a deep well jet pump, it might be worth looking at the water level in the well with the pump off (the static level) and the water level in the well with the pump on (called the dynamic drawdown). Since you do not see bubbles — and the pump shuts off at 40, though it takes longer than it used to — you are not likely drawing the water down far enough to dewater the well — so that's good. But even so, you may need a pump capable of a greater lift and shutoff pressure.