Best Of
Re: Learning my system: WGO-4 firing up-to12x/day in summer
It appears you don't have any Zone Valves, systems usually have one method or the other, Zone Valves or zoning using circulators, yours uses circulators. The isolation your documentation requires is provided by the " X-X Isolated End Switch " terminals provided by the Taco SR504. The X-X Isolated End Switch is an isolated contact closure when one of the zones is calling for heat. That isolated contact closure is how the Taco SR504 tells the boiler to fire.
I suspect one of two things why it was wired as found.
Not enough DHW in the Winter so they forced the boiler to maintain 180 degrees with only the High Limit of the L8184A as the boilers temperature control. IMO that wastes a lot of fuel and adds to the wear and tear of the system.
and/or
They did not understand the Zone 4 priority for DHW, so in the Winter time there was insufficient DHW so keeping the boiler water at 180 degrees solved that issue at the price of a lot of fuel use to keep the boiler at 180 degrees constantly.
As mentioned above I would connect the L8184A thermostat terminals (T-T) to the Taco SR504 X-X Isolated End Switch terminals and move the DHW thermostat and circulator wiring to Zone 4 and turn the priority switch on.
Re: Worst advertising
That just screams Europe.
But two hands on KniPex? And it looks like between two fixed points.
Rick
Re: OT: Underground Wiring Options
As an extra precaution, I always place the "Caution Buried Cable" or "Natural gas" tape 6-8 inches below the grade also. I do this because I've seen overly exuberant diggers chopper right through the tape and pipe or cable, ignoring the caution tape. The tape is cheap enough. Mad Dog
Re: Worst advertising
Also, who would use Knipex style pliers that way, with two hands… and in such a way as to damage the chrome finish? He should be smoking a cigar to complete the image. 😉
Yours, Larry
Re: Off grid heating/ac minisplit efficiency
Thermal chimney. Check out the visitor center at zion NP. A tall, dark colored chimney/roof stack heats the air in the chimney, which rises, pulling air in behind it. The building itself is relatively open, and surrounded by well shaded foyer and gathering space. The heated chimney air rises and pulls in cooled shaded air from around the building. Even when it's 100F out, the inside of the building stays <80F without any active cooling. Check it out. Very cool.
But it requires very specific and thoughtful architecture design and foresight, and I doubt you want to redesign at this point. Given low humidity, and the limited nature of necessary cooling (assuming it doesn't really get >100F?) a swamp cooler is likely your most efficient option, but tourists won't be thrilled with it. A minisplit will be your most efficient (and easiest) option for active cooling. Be prepared for tourists to try to use it for heat as well, which might be ok and really efficient in the shoulder seasons.
Re: Off grid heating/ac minisplit efficiency
Anything with electronics inside is going to run on DC, why would it care about frequency or anything else?
That said I'm still waiting to hear where they are, maybe a swamp cooler will work.

Re: Forced hot water heat options in small pantry?
I have seen the tile go in both ways usually after and always after when remodeling and keeping the cabinets.
One thing to watch out for is an existing dishwasher. If you add tile you may not get the DW out.
Re: high humidity in my house
To dehumidify with DX cooling, you need the air moving across a surface (the coil) that's below the dew point. To increase the moisture removal, you need to slow down the air, lower the coil temp, or both. What is the water entering & leaving temps now? What was it when you had the entering water cranked down to 32°?
With 32° entering water that unit should've been p!ssing like a racehorse, but if there's not enough water flow to keep the whole coil cold, it ain't gonna work so well. Similarly, if the air flow is too high, it's not going to remove very much moisture either.
You're going to have to take some measurements to find out what's going on.

Re: Adding tankless coil to Peerless Boiler
If you do this, your fuel consumption will probably increase by 30-50% since the boiler will have to remain hot constantly (even in the summer) to heat the domestic coil.
Replace the indirect is the best option.
