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Odd Steam Air Vent...
"air MACK valve" made in USA
10 adjustments for air release. Mad Dog
Re: loss of system pressure and failing high limit
Most systems have some small leaks at packings and flanges and such. If the valve got stuck the pressure will eventually drop to 0.
Are you sure there wasn't a pocket of air in the boiler where the probe was?
mattmia2
Re: loss of system pressure and failing high limit
the aquastat is a Honeywell L8124a.
This aquastat never provides the true temperature based upon the dial positions. The unit itself is not that accurate AND, its response is relatively slow. A lot to that is due to the poor contact between the sensing bulb and the well. Ideally, a heat sensitive paste is forced into the well to help with this but nobody ever does it.
Just set it iteratively. Keep reducing the high limit dial until the boiler shuts off at 160°F. It is highly unlikely you need 180°F and, if you did, it would be on the coldest day of the year. Reduce the low limit so it remains 20° below the high limit setting.
As Ed mentioned, the 7224U is a much better and more modern control and it costs less than the L8124. It's my preferred choice for oil.
I am a bit concerned about the 0 psi. A closed system doesn't lose pressure if the boiler shuts down. Where did it go?
LRCCBJ
Re: Turn Down and Condensing
My prior post was written before everyone responded. I thought the presentation was good so that is why I asked the question. So it looks like a residential application is behaving differently than a larger commercial installation. The company in Nebraska was also a very large commercial boiler servicing company. Thanks I will keep an eye out maybe on the condensation output with various turn down percentages. Thanks I think I will follow everyone's advice and keep it as low as it goes.
newinnj
Re: Converting from oil to gas Eastern PA
@Ghynes440 Watch the fine print on that calculator - those are July prices conveniently, which are misleading. Obviously Peco built the calculator and know what they charge, so they consciously picked a summer month with outdated delivery costs instead of keeping it updated. Current peco rates are, at least from an online search is:
$15.70/month
+ $.68/ccf delivery
+$.59/ccf commodity cost.
+ whatever other fees they tack on. So they’ve misstated the savings by several hundred.
The issue with a gas utility (and I have a gas connection, no oil) is that they keep raising the delivery costs. You can have dirt cheap gas molecules but they’ll get ya with the shipping and handling. So conversion might look like a ten year payback, but as those flat fees are tacked in future years on it becomes a trap.
Re: Lochinvar NKC150N Water Temperature Problem
Update: Flushing the combi worked! I used a descaling solution, and then white vinegar. I couldn’t believe the stuff that came out.
I changed the water twice, reversing direction each time and running for 30 minutes each time.
Ran with just water for a last time until I got clear water.
Water gets piping hot and stays that way now.
Thank you so much guys, you have no idea how happy we were to save so much money at a difficult time like this. God bless you all!
Re: Looking for advice on balancing the system in my house to to help with heat and clanging
Make sure that the piping to the radiators, especially the far away ones are well insulated. You may be condensing the steam to water too fast before it can get to and heat some rads.
Re: Looking for advice on balancing the system in my house to to help with heat and clanging
@LRCCBJ, when I do the hot hand test, what would my ideal time be? I'm assuming I'll be worse than that time. If that's the case, I take it I'd want to add at least another #1 on to the main?
The "ideal" time would be something close to three minutes. However, this time does depend on the temperature of the piping when you do the test. If it is insulated, the piping might start at 140F or so and you should make the 3 minute time. If it is uninsulated and the piping is room temperature, the time is significantly more……………could be up to 7 minutes. If longer, more venting is needed.
If I were doing it, I would not add another #1. I would add a #1 vent right at the valve for 3-1. Get the main to give up steam to 3-1 rather than proceed down to 3-2. I'd probably steal one of the #1's from 3-2 and put it at the valve for 3-1. Some creative plumbing required at 3-1 to get it done but you must have considerably more venting on 3-1 if you want to get it to work.
ALSO: Get down in that crawl space and INSULATE that 9' run to 3-1. It will help dramatically.
LRCCBJ
Re: B & G Dou - Flo Valve??? Main loop Supply/ Return and Secondary loop Supply / Return
Thank you all for taking your time on this I feel truly honored. I also strive to be as knowledgeable as you gentlemen one day, as I sit here at the dinner and study. I wish I had the opportunity to be under your wings. Thank you again @hot_rod @delcrossv @EBEBRATT-Ed
