Best Of
Re: Any new feelings about Stay Brite 8 soldering vs brazing?
if you are good at controlling the heat you can fill gaps with soft solder too. it gets more liquid as it gets hotter so if you go for just melting it is less fluid and will fill a bigger gap. look at how they do bodywork with lead or wipe lead pipe.
mattmia2
Re: Any new feelings about Stay Brite 8 soldering vs brazing?
That is the difference between Stay Brite #8 and regular Stay Brite and 95/5. and Silver Brite
I haven't looked this up recently so I could be off but 95/5 was always hard to work with because the temp it melts at (going up) and the temp it freezes at (going down) is the same temp you get no mushy middle ground so very difficult to fill gaps . I always avoided 95/5.
Silver Brite is different it melts and freezes at different temps so you can fill gaps.
I believe that the difference between regular Stay Brite & #8 is for the same reason and that #8 is easier to work with.
Re: Trane ac air handler
@HVACNUT, although the Honeywell version of that RLY2087 time delay relay with the add-on PCB is no longer available there is a White Rodgers version with the part number 57T01-843 for a lot lower price from SupplyHouse.com . You can also get he RLY02087 from SupplyHouse.com for a lot more $$$. It is the same part and does the same thing but is not a PCB attached to a general purpose relay (like the R8222). Here is the cut sheet on the WR control that shows the old and the new style as having the same part number. 57T01-843 If you look up RLY02807 on Supplyhouse.com, you can see it is more expensive, for the same exact part, purchased thru Trane/Am Std.
This is all just too much discussion for a super high efficiency air handler from 20+ years ago. You don't need the dime delay if you are trying to keep an old system operating. So you loose a quarter of an SEER point. If you are that concerned about efficiency, you would no longer own that air handler.
Just throw the TD PCB away and wire up the relay without it. Then you can get paid and move on to the next service call.
But that is a Pro view point… On your own equipment, that is a different story…. Why are you still using that old stuff? If you are waiting to save up to get a new system, finance it and put it in now ans use the savings of the new system, along with the rebates to get the lower electric bill NOW! then use the savings from the lowere electric bill to pay off the financing. Someone in your area has to be offering a financing plan with low interest.
Unless you don't use the AC that much, then keep the old gal running!
Re: Any new feelings about Stay Brite 8 soldering vs brazing?
I have piped DX systems that were 3 1/8" OD
Re: Replacing cast iron radiator with smaller one
I removed an old radiator when I the kitchen in my house and installed a kick in the bench of the breakfast nook
pecmsg
Re: Help Sizing A Multi-Zone Mini Split System - Minimum Capacity?
Yes.
Now, when it comes to sizing I'd be looking at your average annual low, which is -1F, and has a 27% higher heating load as 12F, which is the design temp I used, so you can go as much as 27% higher without really oversizing. You said earlier your designer was using a design temp of 6F, which accounts for some of the difference.
You try to get the heat loads as close as you can, and then you look at equipment. Typically it comes in half ton increments anyway.
Re: OT What is this metal piece found in excavation?
cistern, septic tank, cesspool
cisterns were really common in the early 20th century for clothes washing and that sort of thing, the downspouts would empty in to it and it would usually have a pipe in to the basement to draw water out of it.
mattmia2
Re: OT What is this metal piece found in excavation?
galvanized will bend but it takes a lot of force. lead bends more easily. galvanized that has been in the ground for decades unless it is a very dry climate usually is very rusty. if it was a cistern that would have clay pipe from the downspouts going in to it and pipes returning to the house.
mattmia2
Re: Accidentaly hit PEX with nail. Above subfloor radiant heat
I had a similar problem about 15 years ago when our plasterer managed to slit the PAP tube in a warmboard installation. I wound up shortening the loop by routing a new return into the floor which provided slack to effect the repair. I cut out the damaged portion and poked both of the ends through the subfloor into the cavity below where I used the manufacturers recommended compression fitting to splice the tube in a location where I could more easily get at it if I ever had an issue in the future (thinking it would be a lot easier to cut and patch some drywall from below than to pull up and repair a hardwood floor). I haven't had any issues so far…
Phil_17