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Union factory jobs probably stand a better chance of attracting workers. $$ talks!

Unions were started to prevent factory workers from being exploited. But the wage issue probably would be higher also, further distances the factory from being competitive.

The questions to be asked is would you be willing to pay more for 100% made in USA products? How much more?

I'm not sure what you mean by the pay is good?

Average HVAC jobs pay more than factory jobs do around me, which would you chose? Which would a guidance councilor steer a hands on person too?

Most plumbing and HVAC shops around here will take you right out of high school and train you, earn while you learn the trade. Some shop pick up high school students after school for on the job training.

With the DOE being closed down, schools around here, trade tech included are loosing funding not gaining! Less affluent states when most of the factories are locating to will not have $$ to fund the shortfalls to education from the DOE

when I worked on aircraft and needed to use a crows foot for a flare nut, I would have to do a calculation if I used it as a extention (straight out) because I added length to the wrench but if I used the crows foot at a 90, I didnt because it didnt add length. It mattered.

very first picture looks like it could have gone in a little bit further, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch but kind of hard to tell. my unprofessional view is operator error but again, what do i know. thanks matt for the topic. i learn something new all the time.

@ScottSecor

I remember when the 28s first came out. First one I saw was around 1975ish. Originally Smith had no torque spec for the 28s. A couple of years late we were called in to fix leaks on a 28 not our install. By this time Smith had torque specs. They had overtightened the lower push nipples and you could see cracks across the sections. I called Smith (the old foundry was only 10 miles away) and they came over and looked at it. Had me spray with penetrant. I think it was about 15 section boiler with about 5 cracked sections. We split the block in half and replaced the two that leaked. It was a PITA because it had the long tankless heater installed in the 6" rear tapping that ran the length of the boiler and we had to pull that.

The insurance company would only pay for the 2 sections that leaked so that is what we did. When the insurance inspector showed up he wanted me to retorque the entire boiler including the sections that were cracked but not leaking.

I refused and handed him the torque wrench and said "go ahead you do it".

I think we went back a year later and did some more sections. Too long ago to remember. Trying to remember the torque specs like 130 on top 30 on the other top and 50 at the bottom??

high temperature systems with PP and long horizontal run can be a problem if not supported properly.

I have seen the piping sag and leak condensate at the joints.

HTTP failed , standard PVC and CPVC isn’t the best solution, some stainless suffered gaskets or silicone adhesive failures,

Hopefully PP holds up better. It is a harsh environment for the tube and seals

Dirty or plugged HXers can run the flue temperatures up pretty hot. Hot enough to trip temperature safeties.
Mod cons in DHW mode are generally exceeding the PVC, maybe even CPVC temperature limits

Not to mention the lack of listing for flue gas conveyance on typical PVC pipe

Yet manufactures are still sending equipment out with PVC or CPVC “starter pieces” PVC fittings and rubber sewer pipe connectors😲 Some brands sent ABS start pieces, which would often get connected to PVC. Crazy!