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Re: Co-op in Brooklyn looking for steam consultant, 120 unit, single pipe, 1950s building

Also @EzzyT @clammy possibly @Mad Dog_2 (not sure if that is something he does) and a couple others.

mattmia2

Re: would you replace these controls immediately or wait and see?

Look at the moisture in those relays and the corrosion around the resistors on the board! The control should have been replaced without any further testing.

The manufacturer of any control that’s been subjected to water like that will tell you to replace it.

You’re not doing yourself or the customer any favor by trying to re-use controls in that condition.

Ironman

Re: What is the future of Hydronics?

For houses worst issue with hydronics is dearth of young people to service them.
Folks who know enough work on bigger projects.

jumper

Re: Thermostatic Radiator Valves with Indoor Temperature Sensors

The above. And two other thoughts. First, keep in mind that a TRV can reduce the heat from a radiator. It cannot increase it. Second, when TRVs start closing, they effectively make the system size smaller, and thus the boiler will be oversized for the system (if it isn't already!) and thus will have to cycle on pressure more often.

As @mattmia2 said, get the system well-balanced first. Then add TRVs if you still need them.

Jamie Hall

Re: Co-op in Brooklyn looking for steam consultant, 120 unit, single pipe, 1950s building

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1861124#Comment_1861124

Thanks, Paul.

JohnNY

Re: Thermostatic Radiator Valves with Indoor Temperature Sensors

You need to fix the system problems before you think about TRVs. TRVs are good to help a room that chronically overheats or has a varying load, but you need to get the system basically balanced and fix issues that are causing some emitters to not hear before TRVs will help anything. If the pressure is well controlled and the system is balanced, TRVs closing shouldn't affect how fast or ho much of the remaining emitters heat appreciably.

If you try to solve system problems with TRVs it won't go well.

mattmia2

Re: What happened to Rems Tools(USA)

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1861052#Comment_1861052

The RE#MS tee puller is a lot less $$ compared to a T-Drill. This is a T-Drill notch tool, however. Notching a piece of solar absorber tube .

By code it needs to have two dimples on the stub. One gets silver soldered over, the other is for inspection to assure of the depth. This older tool only does one dimple.

i have seen an even simplier tee puller that goes into a cordless drill I think Flynnstone posted it somewhere.

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hot_rod

Re: Which is the C (common) terminal on a Honeywell Aquastat L8148E?

B2 is neutral on the line volt side. There's a reason Honeywell puts a cardboard divider between the line and low volt terminals.
W/Z is Common on the low volt side.
You will sometimes see diagrams using W for switching through the thermostats or completing the circuit on zone valves, but not on thermostats that require 24v power.

The L8148 comes in three versions. The L8148A controls line-voltage burner circuits; the L8148E,J control low-voltage burner circuits; the L8148J controls millivoltage burner circuits. All models control
line-voltage circulator circuits. L8148A,E,J have provisions for adding low-limit controllers; L8148E,J can power valves in multizone systems.

And this is where the confusion might arise. B2 is common on the line voltage models. However B2 on the low voltage model may not necessarily be common on the E and is not part of the low voltage circuit in the J model. It is isolated for millivoltage use of B1 and B2 thru the limit.

In order to keep it simple for the layman (original poster) I believe it is irresponsible for professionals to have this debate on his discussion. If we can't agree with a consensus, how is the non professional supposed to be helped by HeatingHelp.com?

If I were to be incorrect, I would admit it so as not to have the person asking for help, do something that will damage the control or thermostat they are trying to connect to the heating boiler.

Just an opinion.

Oh, By the way, I looked up an old record in my business files, it seams that I did exactly that wiring diagram for one of my mechanics in order to install a Nest thermostat. At the time I was a NEST PRO and getting referrals from NEST to professionally install their products. This added a few years to the warranty and gave me new customer leads for servicing their heating equipment.