Best Of

Just a coupling that fits that type of tube is fine. No harm in heat shrinking it also. That is mostly for repairs in concrete pours.

Maybe make a map of the exact location, for peace of mind.

What brand of tube is it? Do they offer a crimp coupling, or just compression style?

On my Warmboard installs I would get a roll of butcher paper, lay it across the room to make a map of the exact tube location. pics or drone shots work well also.

I guess at the end of the day…. it is a loop from the top of the low loss header to the bottom of the low loss header with a check valve preventing the return water from being pumped back into the zone before returning to the low loss header first…… i.e. one direction flow only.

A smaller radiator will offer you less heat. Is the kitchen too hot? …then reduce the size of the radiator.

If your kitchen is just the right temperature when the heating system is operating, then installing a smaller radiator with less heating output, will result in your kitchen will be colder.

If the system is set up and adjusted properly, the boiler should only run to heat domestic water when there’s a call from the indirect through the 2107 Logamatic control on top of the boiler.

The Logamatic control operates from a heating curve which means it doesn’t call the boiler on for SPACE heating from a thermostat demand, but instead, it uses an outdoor sensor and water temperature sensor to regulate the boiler’s water temperature. This is known as outdoor reset (ODR). It also has a feature known as warm weather shut down (WWSD). This turns off SPACE heating at around 68* outside. The control probably has a radiant heating card installed which operates a mixing valve for a lower heating curve for the radiant floor since the boiler must operate at a warmer temperature to prevent flue gas condensation.

I suspect that something (maybe a bad outdoor sensor) is keeping the boiler on all the time at a high temperature resulting in excessive fuel consumption.

Unfortunately, the Logamatic control is no longer available from Buderus unless there’s one on a shelf somewhere. There are other aftermarket controls that can be incorporated by a competent tech should the Logamatic be faulty.

The boiler is the best cast iron made and was the most efficient system around when it was installed. I believe the AFUE rating was 84%. If properly maintained, it could easily last 40+ years. The indirect, depending upon water conditions, 25-30 years on average.

I would recommend that you get someone like @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes to evaluate the system and see what needs to be done to correct any issues. Again, it could be something as simple as an outdoor sensor gone bad.

If the time comes, or has come, for a system replacement, a 95%+ mod/con boiler with fire tube heater exchanger + a new indirect would be the best way to go.

@amaiale , take a pic from the end of the radiator so we can see what type and capacity are the sections it uses. Also how tall is it?

perfect application of a Thermostatic radiator valve. Turn up or down as you need or as your cat prefers. Just swap the valve, much easier than a new radiator.

Edit: Except that’s not the problem you are trying to solve! Less radiator not just less heat.
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