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Pump & Dump Water to Air Heat pump Failure
In the late 80's, early 90's I installed 7 WAHP with pump and dump.
Sad to report that the oldest one has failed. It was a 3 ton Command-Aire installed in 1989. So a 35 year run surprised everyone…..including me.
The owner said that the water coil started leaking. The only other failed part was the blower motor, just recently. All of these had the Cupronickel water coils. All also had the desuperheater for DHW heating. And of course good ol' R-22.
Most dumped into a small stream or pond. One dumped into old well.
Out of the 7 there are still 3 running. I credit this longevity to our Sandhills water supply.
Also to the quality of components of the era.
T-stats were such that you could select HP only or HP with aux heaters. Most would heat enough with HP only. I probably oversized most of them because of that fact.
But they were all loud, you knew when they were running.
Re: Replacing 30 year old Vesta oil boiler….
Ed,
Thanks…. that’s the direction I’m leaning right now is to just do the bid that doesn’t include the indirect. I can always do that later.
And I’m with you on thinking I’ll just take my chances and not get the extended warranty….
I need a new fridge and that extra $500 will help in that department… it’s 30 years old too!!
Re: First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
The anual cleaning is for the fireside of the boiler not the water side. Even that depends on how the boiler looks st the first service. In some cases you may go 2 or 3 years between cleaning.
The boiler manual may tell you what type of cleaner to use. I would not use a strong acid type.
Hydronic cleaners from Fernox, Rhomar and Adey are my suggestion
The have screw on aerosol cans now to inject the cleaner. Otherwise you need a fill/ purge pump
You need several flush valves in the correct location to flush and purge.
When it is all said and done add a conditioner and the fluid should be fine for years
hot_rod
Re: First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
Here is an example of a one piece fill/ purge valve, Webstone is one brand.
Also an example of a boiler water spec for stainless boilers. Check your water.
hot_rod
Re: Water leak at pump
See if tightening the bolt stops the leak, first. If not it could need a new pump gasket. We see 15, 20 yer mod con boilers still running strong, on this list.
hot_rod
Re: What type of check valves
what was the error code that had to be cleared? Many of the small circulators have check valves inside them, or shipped in the box with them. The pump manual might show what that looks like.
Who installed the recirc pump?
The Navian manual may shop the correct piping and check location.
Aftermarket check should be a small spring check, rated for potable water use.
An example of a small serviceable check valve.
hot_rod
Re: First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
No, it shouldn’t be flushed unless there’s an issue that necessitates it.
Flushing introduces fresh water with more air and minerals. Not a good idea.
To protest the boiler from debris and such, a DIrt Mag should be installed in the return line
Ironman
First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
first of all, can someone help me identify this valve and tell me how to torn it. Do I have to buy a handle or do I use a wrench?
Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
Not a 100- this is that pump's predecessor. My 1940 Bell & Gossett Handbook says it's the model H2, since the pipe connections are 2-inch.
Given the size of that boiler, I'm thinking that circ might be oversized for that system. This can cause the water to short-circuit through the radiators, reducing efficiency. Here's an extreme case I found years ago:
Do you know how many square feet of radiation is on your system?
Also, an old round boiler like that one is inherently inefficient. A combustion test would probably reveal an extremely high stack temperature.
Re: Replacing 30 year old Vesta oil boiler….
Well from what you have posted and if I understand correctly the contractor you mentioned that is straightforward is the one that did your ac system, so you have a track record with him.
How did he perform on the AC job? All things being = would point me in that direction. The contractor is the most important thing
As far as the indirect tank goes, I am a "run it until it fails". Swapping an indirect is an easy 4–5-hour job. If it was me, I would leave it until it fails. But thats just me.
Going with no HW for a day or so is inconvenient but not the worst thing in the world.




