Best Of
Re: First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
Here is an example of a one piece fill/ purge valve, Webstone is one brand.
Also an example of a boiler water spec for stainless boilers. Check your water.
hot_rod
Re: Water leak at pump
See if tightening the bolt stops the leak, first. If not it could need a new pump gasket. We see 15, 20 yer mod con boilers still running strong, on this list.
hot_rod
Re: What type of check valves
what was the error code that had to be cleared? Many of the small circulators have check valves inside them, or shipped in the box with them. The pump manual might show what that looks like.
Who installed the recirc pump?
The Navian manual may shop the correct piping and check location.
Aftermarket check should be a small spring check, rated for potable water use.
An example of a small serviceable check valve.
hot_rod
Re: First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
No, it shouldn’t be flushed unless there’s an issue that necessitates it.
Flushing introduces fresh water with more air and minerals. Not a good idea.
To protest the boiler from debris and such, a DIrt Mag should be installed in the return line
Ironman
First time flushing hi-eff boiler-what do I need to know?
first of all, can someone help me identify this valve and tell me how to torn it. Do I have to buy a handle or do I use a wrench?
Re: Can you help identify my B&G boiler pump? Possible replacement? Repair parts?
Not a 100- this is that pump's predecessor. My 1940 Bell & Gossett Handbook says it's the model H2, since the pipe connections are 2-inch.
Given the size of that boiler, I'm thinking that circ might be oversized for that system. This can cause the water to short-circuit through the radiators, reducing efficiency. Here's an extreme case I found years ago:
Do you know how many square feet of radiation is on your system?
Also, an old round boiler like that one is inherently inefficient. A combustion test would probably reveal an extremely high stack temperature.
Re: Replacing 30 year old Vesta oil boiler….
Well from what you have posted and if I understand correctly the contractor you mentioned that is straightforward is the one that did your ac system, so you have a track record with him.
How did he perform on the AC job? All things being = would point me in that direction. The contractor is the most important thing
As far as the indirect tank goes, I am a "run it until it fails". Swapping an indirect is an easy 4–5-hour job. If it was me, I would leave it until it fails. But thats just me.
Going with no HW for a day or so is inconvenient but not the worst thing in the world.
Re: Prevent mold in mini-split heads
This is the 10 year old coil on my wallmount. Except for washing the filter, it has never been cleaned. Do get very good runtimes on this head as there are some larger west facing windows.
Kaos
Re: Prevent mold in mini-split heads
I was amazed as how much mold can be inside of a minisplit wall hung air handler after just a few years. I purchased several kits and had a flat rate to power wash a minisplit indoor wall unit to remove the mold. The sprayer and the kit with bib and 5 gal bucket made me some $$$ when I was doing this for a living. I find this is the best way to get all the mold from the nooks and crannies in the coil, drain pan, blower housing and blower wheel. They look like new when done properly. Bib & Bucket kit. Sprayer sold separately. sometimes I used the pump bottle with the cleaning chemical and water. Other times I used a portable pressure washer on really bad systems.
Re: Prevent mold in mini-split heads
I feel like the mold issue is overblown in standard residential applications. It's a good idea to get in and make sure everything is staying clean periodically, best to clean the coil as well (once a year) Maintain proper airflow by staying up on the main air filter (vacuum or wash clean every two weeks give or take, if it is filthy when you clean it you waited too long) most also have a thicker filter that should be cleaned every couple of months. They do make UV lights that go inside mini split heads which I have mixed feelings about, they will keep mold at bay and should keep the indoor coil cleaner. I've only seen mold become an issue in my area when people are using these in big marijuana greenhouse operations (these are legal here and big money for our industry) to counter the massive lights being used. There is a ton of moisture in those spaces, they closely resemble a pool room, and mold growth is a big concern in that application.






