Best Of
Re: A/C Capacitor Voltage
TL;DR: it's probably fine. If in doubt, get the higher rating.
Compressor, fan, dual? If you went to the supply house & they looked it up from the unit model & serial, I would imagine that's the right one. If you just crossed it over from the existing, I would've expected a 440 volt one, or dual rated. Like @ChrisJ and @EdTheHeaterMan said, a higher voltage rating will substitute for a lower—but not vice versa.
It's my understanding that the motor design determines the voltage of the cap. (I read that on the Internetz some time in the last few decades, so it must be true!) In any case, you can verify the voltage by simply measuring the voltage across the cap with the unit operating, it'll be around 370 volts, or it'll be around 440 volts. The outdoor fan motor and the compressor both should have a nameplate that specifies the capacitance and voltage of the required cap. Two separate ones work the same as a dual. Oval vs round is merely mechanical, you can use either if you can get it tucked up in there somewhere.
ratio
Re: 1 Ton = 400 CFM??
Just for fun, I ran some numbers. If your indoor temperature is 74F, your air handler is running at 400 CFM and your AC is delivering 12,000 BTU/hr:
- At a dewpoint of 46F or below (37% RH) the air comes out at 46F
- At a dewpoint of 50F (42% RH) the air comes out at 48F
- At a dewpoint of 60F (63% RH) the air comes out at 55F
- At a dewpoint of 70F (90% RH) the air comes out at 63F
The SHR ratio for those four scenarios is 100%, 92%, 65%, 38%.
AC is kind of magic this way, the more humid it is, the more dehumidification it does.
Re: Steam boilers that are piped wrong
Give them a copy of my book, We Got Steam Heat. That will convince they without a doubt.
Re: Simple Question: Brush and Cleaner
coil type condensing heat exchangers I like to use a stiff hand brush, some guys get nylon brushes that you would put on a power tool like a drill as well. if its stainless steel you can use clean F-steel from axiom. the coil type from HTP and most brands are really tight between the coils and you need to make sure you are NOT packing the products of combustion down into those gaps, they make some tools to clean between those gaps, you can use a card, or something stiff enough to get between the gap without being weak enough to snap off in there. Vac out all the big stuff, scrape out the gaps so they are nice and open (all around too!) spray on the cleaner, make the heat exchanger nice and shiny and flush out with water. You want to also clean out the condensate trap at the end of this and flush out the heat exchanger with water one more time, make sure the trap is clean, and water flows nicely out of the heat exchanger, into the trap, and out to drain. Depending on what kind of issues you run into along the way some of these steps may change slightly, the goal should always be to make it look brand new but that can be hard!
If there are refractory pieces use caution to not get them wet! if you see cracks or damage on refractory, igniter, flame sensor, gaskets this is also the time to get those parts to replace them
( I never used this site no idea about it, but this hand brush works for me for the big stuff)
some guys use a new clean toilet brush which also works pretty good!
I don't really have a recomendation for spinny brushes, I've used some from the hardware store, and I see a bunch of assortments on amazon, the ones that are sort of shaped like a toilet brush are fine, round ones are ok too
viessmann cleaning spatula
7883995
GGross
Re: Delay of boiler firing?
I can't edit but I meant to say boiler won't fire and pumps won't run.
nate379
Re: Delay of boiler firing?
Oh, it's heated the building fine, on the coldest days the thermostat at most will call for heat for ~20 hours total in a day and I've never felt it wasn't keeping up.
nate379
Re: I'm getting solar panels. I'll let you know how it goes in this discussion thread.
Thank you, I sure will post the good, bad, and the ugly. No word yet on the inspections. Waiting on the town I think.
Re: any suggestions on pumps?
The 26-99 would easily support 3x what you have and is grossly oversized (though would modulate). Even the 15-58 will do nearly double what you have without issue. The Alpha 15-58 and two 3/4" Sentry zone valves would do a heck of a job here but if cost is of any concern, one UPS15-58 on each zone would be a great fit as well.
I typically run my loops 250ft in residential homes and use 32% glycol, and a single 15-58 starts to max out at about 14-15 loops. I do typically use the Alpha 26-99 with zone valves and/or actuators when it's 3 or more zones and 15+ loops, but something like yours would be two UPS 15-58 (if a budget build) or an Alpha 15-58 with two zone valves.
GroundUp
Re: Steam Boiler seems to be pulling a vacuum causing it to shut down on low water.
Here are some tips on setting up forum email notifications:
https://heatinghelp.com/forum-user-manual
Re: Steam Boiler seems to be pulling a vacuum causing it to shut down on low water.
With a vented boiler feed tank and pumps, atmospheric pressure pushes feedwater from the tank into the boiler and header causing the flooded condition you describe.
If this is a vacuum return system, or you're interested in maintaining a vacuum on the returns, a positively closing valve on the discharge of the boiler feed pump(s) should be installed. The actuator on this valve should be wired so the valve only opens when the boiler is calling for feedwater and the boiler feed pump is operating.
Pumpguy