Best Of
Re: heating oil tank manufacturer's warranty voided by transfer of oil from the old tank?
I don't recommend placing any oil from any steel tank into any new tank. That is a result of experience.
- Do you know for sure that there are no TBD Tank Bottom Deposits (contaminants/sludge) in the oil that is in the old tank? I can guarantee you that there are. They are also black and smell awful
- Can you be absolutely sure that those TBDs will not get into your new tank? I can guarantee you that they will.
- Will those contaminants be stopped from entering the oil pump and/or nozzle during the subsequent winter operating season?
- Do you like it when you have a burner failure when it is very cold?
If you can answer YES to all these questions then by all means put the old oil in the new tank
Regarding the slight up and down you will get in a new fuel line regardless of the reason, that will not be a problem. Especially when using the Tiger Loop.
EDIT:
Case History: This actually happened to me. As a result of the previous fuel dealer's poor tank maintenance policy for years, there were a number of homes in Ocean City NJ that had a problem with clogged nozzles. This one homeowner that suffered from this problem was told by the city that they needed to replace the buried sewer pipe that connected their home and the neighbors home. Since the fuel oil tank was over the buried pipe, they needed to remove the tank and could replace the tank after the work was completed. due to the age of the tank, the city would also purchase the new replacement tank.
I provided the estimate for the needed work and included putting a temporary fuel supply in place so the home would not be without heat and hot water as a separate line item from the replacement tank quote. I also added an option to keep the three 55 gallon drums as a temporary tank until the old oil was used up. This would ensure that no old oil would be introduced to the new tank. The city declined to pay for that option and the homeowner wanted to save $$$ and elected to just pump the old oil back into the new tank. Against my strongest recommendation to use up or throw the oil. Away, the customer (who is always right) instructed me to put that old oil from the three 55 gallon drums back in their new tank. That winter there were 3 service visits to replace a clogged nozzle that also included a new filter and pump strainer service.
This customer wanted an explanation as to how this dirt crud and sludge could have possibly got into the new tank? I explained that the former fuel oil dealer was not using any additives in the oil they have been delivering for the last 30 years since the son took over the business from the father. This saved him $$$ but as time went on all the tanks that were served by that company were accumulating copious amounts of tank bottom deposits (TBD). I kept a sample of what we pulled out of the old tank before the scrap man removed that tank from the property the previous year. I also showed him the 2 oil filters and nozzles that were covered with those TBDs. I left them in a plastic container in the boiler room because I had a suspicion that I might need them in the future.
Now the customer understood why I strongly recommended paying a little extra for the temporary fuel drums to use up the oil. When the customer asked what can be cone about this problem. I gave him a more expensive option that would include running the fuel oil tank to near empty. I would then set up a containment system in his backyard so I could lay the new contaminated fuel tank on its side and take 20 gallons of new oil, clean oil and pump it through a hose with a spray nozzle on the end of the hose. This was in order to use the clean oil like you might use a garden hose to wash down your driveway or sidewalk. The pressurized oil would force the TBSs off the bottom of the 1 year old tank and allow another pump to suck out the contaminated oil with all of the TBDs that were suspended in that oil. After 4 rinses (5 gallons at a time) all the contaminants were virtually gone. Then I reinstalled the tank and had a delivery of fresh oil delivered with an extra tank cleaning additive to be added to each delivery.
The following winter there were no plugged nozzles reported by this customer. Since you will be using oil from your old tank, I can not tell you that you will have that same problem, however I can tell you that this customer’s attempt to save $$$ by not throwing that old oil, cost them much more than they had planned. But at least the toilets were flushing properly now.
Re: Rust in one pipe system
And I don't think it has been asked — but what pressure is your system running at?
Re: What was the best MacGuyver moment you actually saw on a job site?
Years ago, out in the middle of nowhere on a farm with no water. Couldn't troubleshoot a submersible pump's electric motor deep in a well. We needed to take a continuity reading, but the glass fuse on the lead of the old amprobe meter had blown, and we didn't have a replacement. Back then, almost everyone had a pack of cigarettes. Stripped a small piece of foil from the pack and wrapped it from top to bottom of the blown fuse, fooling the meter with that little bypass. Continuity taken.
Intplm.
Re: some help/advice, pressure shut off, pigtail
I would spray the threads with "Kroil" or any penetrating oil numerous times over a few days before you try to remove that pigtail. Let the penetrating oil sit for hours to allow it to do it's magic. Then use a 6" or 8" Ridgid pipe wrench, putting it as close to the low water control as possible to reduce the chance of breaking the pigtail. Try turning the pigtail just slightly CW as if you are trying to tighten it before you try to remove it. The last torque that pigtail saw was when it was installed so the resistance to turn will be the least when turning it CW as if still tightening it. When you get it out, replace it with a brass pigtail and use Permatex anti seize lubricant.
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
is this the one?
Mustee Twin Waste Assembly https://a.co/d/a1WoxNN
Or do they make version with the stud mounts?
PC7060
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
had the same thing on Maple Ave in S Hempstead. Sold that house 25 years ago.
pecmsg
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
I had that drain connection on a double sink in my mother's house (mid 1940's).
The sink seemed to be concrete with metal upper protective trim and a washboard built into one of the sloped walls. Very handy with wringer washer and quite durable.
When redoing plumbing I knew to not touch it.
We moved away instead.😊
Re: "Yelp"/ angi list for contractors.
I was on a job about five years ago, another GC situation. 99% of our work is homeowner direct, for the last 20 years. I did more GC stuff in the 90s.
I’m always discussing money flow. My antennas interpret the amount of communication needed. Nobody wants somebody droning on about the same topic, especially money.
We’re at the end of the project and it becomes clear that the money flow isn’t what they said in the beginning. “The person that signs the checks is off this week”. I told the lead guy: “the system will not operate until I have a check on my hand“. About three hours later, the envelope was placed in my hand. It all worked out.
Conversely, we did another GC two years ago. I believe I just stated my general intentions/expectations once in an email. He agreed. That’s all I said. The nice man delivered as promised.
GW


