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Rust in one pipe system

PhilKulkarni
PhilKulkarni Member Posts: 78
in Strictly Steam

I am draining about a quart of water every two weeks from my 3 yr old boiler due to a high amount of rusty water and rust particles The problem predates the boiler but was less severe and I have been using 8-way for the past 2 yrs to control the rust. Last time The boiler accumulated so much rust was when the wet returns were so corroded that I was able to push a pencil through one of them. I replaced them, but since that was 23 yrs ago, I checked them again by tapping them with a hammer and they are solid.

Which other pipes should I check next? The pipes are insulated throughout. Should the dry return- the 1.25” dia section after the last riser that drops into the wet return, be the next pipe to check? It is about 28’ long and in a crawl space where it is a bit difficult to maneuver. Curious how long a typical dry return(black pipe) lasts, considering that the condensate from all the risers on that loop traverses it. My dry returns are going on probably 50+ yrs. Also since I have partially counterflow headers, some of the rust is also coming from the drips installed on them and if they are the primary source of the rust then I will try to adjust the PH a notch higher.

Thanks for your help.

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,827

    Any pipe above the boiler water line usually lasts forever. It's just the pipe below the water line that causes issues.

    mattmia2Mad Dog_2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,816

    Unless there are system issues causing the boiler to throw water up in to the mains the rust through is usually only in the parts below the water line. Adding some valves and tees to flush the wet returns once a year is a great idea. Some tees and valves or plugs that let you wand and flush the boiler once a year help too.

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,211

    Do you keep up on repairing any steam leaks ? With steam leaks the water will escape out of the system and leave the minerals (solids) behind . Hi iron water would leave a redish color mud in the boiler .

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    Mad Dog_2
  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 748

    If you have a sag in a return it can rust there.

    Mad Dog_2
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,656

    Stop the regular draining. You are introducing oxygen with all that fresh water. Put in enough 8-way to increase the pH to 9 or 10 and let it be

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • PhilKulkarni
    PhilKulkarni Member Posts: 78

    Thanks for the feedback everyone. At the beginning of each season I drain just enough water from the boiler and the wet returns until it runs clear. But this is not preventing rust particles from gumming up my rad vents. As far as I can tell, open rad. vents are the primary sources of steam leaks in my system and I discover them about a month or so into the heating season when the boiler runs for longer periods. Most of the time cleaning out the vent with tap water works, other times I have to replace them if they still don’t close. This has become a chore.


    I am not aware of any other leaks but they could be masked because I am draining and adding water due the the rust issue. Next season, I will check the water level after a month of use without drawing down the the rusty water to determine if there are steam or water leaks that might be contributing to the rust.

    As for the 8-Way, I have been adding it in small amounts until I notice a slight reddening of the water. Not too scientific I admit. I will check the PH level with color strips.

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 966

    It seems to me you have other issues. Your vents shouldn't be seeing anything that would blow up you vents.

    Are you making a very wet steam?

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,816
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1856130#Comment_1856130

    Are the main vents adequate and working?

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,016

    And I don't think it has been asked — but what pressure is your system running at?

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2
  • PhilKulkarni
    PhilKulkarni Member Posts: 78

    Hope I can address all the questions:

    Wet steam?

    Possibly. When the steam reaches the vents, I notice they gurgle before shutting off which is more noticeable at night. There are no water droplets though, and because the Ventrites make a clicking sound when they close, I can see that they are not leaking steam after they close. Other factors- The header ht is 34” above the water line which drops 2-2.5” while the boiler is steaming. The boiler takeoff is 3” while the header is 2”.

    Clogged vents?

    I am attaching a pic of the rust particles from the boiler. These are very large compared to the ones that clog the vents. The vents have a small amount of water which does not seem to interfere with their operation


    Boiler pressure?

    During most of the heating cycle 30-40 mins, depending on ambient it is 0 psi on a 5PSI gauge. When the outside temp is in the 20s the pressure will climb to 0.5PSI but the boiler shuts off on temp. When the temp drops into the teens, the boiler cuts off at 1.8PSI and will cycle once and shutoff in 5 mins. on temp.

    IMG_0629.jpeg

    Thanks.

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