Best Of
Re: Corrosion on burners for a RUUD Achiever 90 plus gas hot air Furnace
A furnace like that will often get condensation forming in the air intake pipe during the summer and sometimes it will drip on the burners, it can cause some issues that can be handled by regular maintenance. Some manufacturers recommend a drain tee on the intake pipe. I can't tell anything from your picture but I doubt it's anything serious. The combustion test results don't look terrible. I bet you were dealing with a sales tech who was chasing a commission.
Re: Sizing a radiator
@delcrossv , Hmmm. Then I guess they need to pay for WrightSoft or Elite like all of the professionals did when I was in business. I still have an older version of one of them on an old computer. I can't get it for my MacBook without paying for the license again. So when I need to do one, I crank up that old Dell laptop and hammer one out and email the results to my Mac. I also have some hand written forms that were put out by the Hydronics Institute. (remember when it was called The Institute for Boiler Ratings I=B=R years ago?).
These forms give you more choices to select from, you can do a room with 1/2 of the ceiling exposed to the exterior and the other half under a conditioned space. Each room is more accurate that way. Since there is no air condition load, you didn't need to tell the difference of the North or South or East/West walls. Less work needed for a heating only system size.
Re: Hide and seek minisplit HP routes
You matched the line set covers nicely .. Just thinking , first thought ,can you keep the distribution boxes dry ….
Re: New persistent apartment radiator leak despite change by plumber
Hi, All. Thanks to all who have taken the time to answer. Yes, water is spewing from the top of the chrome pointy vent at the end (on both radiators, in living room and bedroom, suggesting a system wide issue rather than a single mechanical fail on one radiator). The left leaning pitch of the whole unit was purposely set by the plumber and he told me while doing it that it needed to allowed cooled steam to return to the system without being pooled at the vent end of the radiator. So slanting it down to the left was supposed to do this. At the time, he also opened the valve midway and told me to leave it in that position because if opened too much, would be too much pressure in the radiator and it would leak at the vent. He suspected that there was an issue with boiler being set too high and that he would talk to the super about it. Looks like he may have been right. I spoke to the super and he said that a lot of other apartments seem to be having similar problems. He had a boiler guy down in the basement for several hours and I ran into them on my way out to go shopping. The boiler guy said give it week before trying again so I guess he needed some time to either purge the system or something along those lines. So hopefully they can solve this before the weather really drops. Thanks again to to all who have taken an interest and provided clues. Cheers!
Re: Cleaning/Descaling Indirect Water Heater-Or is it too rusty?
Here it is. 😊
Yours, Larry
Re: Cleaning/Descaling Indirect Water Heater-Or is it too rusty?
Hi, Long ago I designed and built tools for vacuuming the sediment out of tanks. Motive power came from a bilge pump. This is a positive displacement pump that is self priming. Water and sediment would flow up a "wand" that was inserted into the tank. Then into a filter and then to the pump and water back into the tank. Maybe you can use some of that thinking to solve your problem? 🤔
Yours, Larry
Re: New Hydronic System - Much More Complex Than I Am Used To.
Usually they are slid inside a sleeve in the slab so that they are serviceable.
Re: Equalizer Return
I agree with what @ethicalpaul has done and find his experiments interesting and intriguing. Jobs that are not piped right probably need the equalizer/header drain more than the ones that are piped right.
Re: Please help! hvac guy used aluminum chimney liner for two Gas-Fired Water Boilers + 2 h2o heater
Pirates….
Yes, get a full length smoothwall 316ss liner with the ss top plate and rain cap. At the base, sweep it into the room then transition to single walled unlisted galv. pipe. Replace that goat rodeo of connector with a sensible manifold- not that bowl of spaghettic.
They can use a prepared refractory mortar called "ChamberTech 2000- any sweep will know what it is. Alternatively, they can simply add reinforcing fibers and a little stucco mix to the mortar. They'll still need to fill in voids with bricks and rubble. The stucco mix will cause it to flash set in about 10 minutes depending upon weather conditions. Neither will suffer shrink cracks. Also, have them dampen the surrounding masonry so it doesn't suck all the water out of the mortar.
HTH