Best Of
Re: Ever seen one of these??
Not the only "FootRest" idea on the market back in the day!
The benefits of non-reparable 1/4 turn valves
So full flow valves should just flow full but after 25 years or so of limited use, the one to the garage was very wimpy. After checking everything else, there seemed to be a blockage near the valve. I eventually tried blowing compressed air back into the valve and while I couldn't see what the blockage was, it cleared out and now all is well. Somehow I think there are plenty of people here on the Wall that just automatically know this is something to try to fix the problem. For me this was a lightbulb moment that solved a problem.
If my plumbing knowledge was better way back then I would have made it a lot easier to just replace the valve but I didn't. So having to stop and think about it, I solved the problem and learned stuff too. I've been able to see things more clearly by being here on the Wall. Thanks to all for adding to my education.
Re: Which filter model ?
Your fuel pump gear set has the capacity to move 17 Gallons per hour (GPH). if you have two pipes from the tank to the burner, one of those pipes is a return line. In order for that two pipe feature to operate properly the installer placed a bypass plug internally in the pump where the cover indicates "Return and Bypass" and connected the return pipe to the tank in that opening. This means that the filter will be filtering 17 gallons per hour, so the filter rated at 10 GPH might be overwhelmed by that additional 7 gallons per hour flow rate. That oil filter that has a capacity of 10 GPH is the 1A-25A or the 1A-25B filter that uses the RF-1 refill.
If there is only one fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel pump then the bypass plug is not inserted in the return and bypass port. This will allow the fuel that leaves the gear set to go thru that bypass opening internally from that return port and enter the intake port. this recirculatio of the balance of the fuel that is not delivered to the nozzle does not return to the tank but stays in the pump. as a result of this internal bypassing, the single fuel line from the tank to the burner only delivers the burner' firing rate from the tank to the pump. If that firing rate is about 1.00 GPH or less then all of the oil filter will be of adequate size.
Since you have the spin on type filter, just about every one of the filters you have selected, will work for you. The fact that you want to purchase enough for 10 years, I would select the B-100 models because you don't know what the future will bring. You may not be able to get B-5 fuel ten years from now, so you may have gaskets that you can no longer use in 5 years, if the fuel that is available is B20 or B30 or higher.
Re: Its on every plumbing exam.......
(NYC is supplied by the Croton Watershed) Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Help! Pressure keeps rising on Weil McClain Eco 70 system
Two different problems.
The slow rise in cold pressure can only come from the manual fill valve leaking by — very slightly, but leaking nonetheless. There is no other source of water to increase the pressure. You might get lucky and persuade it to stop by lowering the system pressure and then turning it full open and firmly closed… but it may need replacing.
The excess rise in pressure when the system goes from cold to hot is likely due to the expansion tank not being properly charged with air when it was installed. There is only one way to do this right. Disconnect the tank from the system (if you have the right combination of valves and drains this is easy. Otherwise, you will have to drain the system and disconnect the tank. Charge the tank with air to the desired system pressure. Then reconnect the tank to the system and set the system pressure.
Re: Radiator removal
Looks like whoever changed it to copper screwed a male adapter in to the radiator and sweated it in place, doesn't look like there is a union there.
mattmia2
Re: Ever seen one of these??
For @Stet, Back in the day, we would need to work (or play) in the snow. We would wear something my father called galoshes over our shoes to protect them from the wet snow and ice. At the end of the day, that shelf at the bottom of the radiator might be a nice place to dry out your shoes and/or galoshes so they were dry for the next day!
As far as @psb75's contraption is concerned, That might be a Semi-automatic Humidifier. As the trough dries out, you just open the bleed port to refill for more humidity. It might be a once an evening thing. But eventually you would need to add water to the boiler if there was no auto feed in the basement.
Re: Radiator removal
When you cut the copper elbow with a hacksaw and you remove the other side the same way (if there is no valve or union) you can then add the proper valve and union combination when the radiator returns with your new finish. Be careful that the paint or other coating is something that is compatible with the temperature you expect the radiator to operate. There have been folks herein that asked how to stop the odors that are emitted from the paint after it is heated to 180°. I can't remember what paint the folks used that resulted in that horrible odor, I just remember that the odor was more unbearable as the radiator temperature increased. Read this:
After the radiator is ready to be put back in place, you should invest in the proper Radiator valve and union return bend so that future service will be easily completed by loosening the unions on the valve and return bend. I believe the links will give you examples of the lower cost 3/4" sweat fittings. There are also more Decorative valves and fittings that you may want to consider if you are so inclined.