Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Radiator removal

Ghynes440
Ghynes440 Member Posts: 45
in Oil Heating

any tips on how to get this sized part off? I’m removing the radiator in the bathroom to get it completely stripped due to paint chipping off and rusting from being right next to the toilet. I just sprayed some penetrating oil.

IMG_2209.jpeg IMG_2207.jpeg

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,090

    Your best bit is to hope that the small hex is half of a union — I can't really tell from the photo. If it is, there's a chance you can get it to unscrew from the bushing in the radiator.

    I note that it looks as though someone has been hacking at it with a pipe wrench. A big crescent, adjusted to fit, would be better…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,149

    Looks like whoever changed it to copper screwed a male adapter in to the radiator and sweated it in place, doesn't look like there is a union there.

    PeteA
  • bburd
    bburd Member Posts: 1,168

    You will probably have to cut the pipe to get that radiator out of there. It looks like the copper was sweated in place after that adapter was screwed into the radiator bushing.

    —
    Bburd
  • Ghynes440
    Ghynes440 Member Posts: 45
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1858197#Comment_1858197

    that’s what I was thinking. I was planning on redoing the copper pipes anyway

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,226

    That bushing looks like it is counter sunk in the middle , it may be a cast bushing ??

    It may be your lucky day …

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,624

    When you cut the copper elbow with a hacksaw and you remove the other side the same way (if there is no valve or union) you can then add the proper valve and union combination when the radiator returns with your new finish.  Be careful that the paint or other coating is something that is compatible with the temperature you expect the radiator to operate.  There have been folks herein that asked how to stop the odors that are emitted from the paint after it is heated to 180°.  I can't remember what paint the folks used that resulted in that horrible odor, I just remember that the odor was more unbearable as the radiator temperature increased.   Read this: https://www.bestheating.com/info/painting-a-radiator/

    After the radiator is ready to be put back in place, you should invest in the proper Radiator valve and union return bend so that future service will be easily completed by loosening the unions on the valve and return bend.  I believe the links will give you examples of the lower cost 3/4" sweat fittings. There are also more Decorative valves and fittings that you may want to consider if you are so inclined.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    bburdAlan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,032

    Cut the pipe and move the rad where you can work on it. Lay it down on its front, Put a 2' pipe wrench on the bushing with a cheater pipe and wrench it out. You may need 3 people. One to sit on the radiator and one to help you push the wrench. If it won't come out use a Sawzall to make some slices in the bushing and then pick the pieces out with a cape chisel.

  • Ghynes440
    Ghynes440 Member Posts: 45
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1858202#Comment_1858202

    Thank you for all that info. I am actually getting it powder coated. There is a company that refinishes radiators near me and that is the process . The other side of the does union with a shut off valve, which was easy to get off. Instead of sweating fittings, I plan on renting a copper pipe crimper.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,624
    edited June 19

    @Ghynes440 said: Thank you for all that info. I am actually getting it powder coated. There is a company that refinishes radiators near me and that is the process . The other side of the does union with a shut off valve, which was easy to get off. Instead of sweating fittings, I plan on renting a copper pipe crimper.

    All good to get copper press fittings that will use a press tool. You should make arrangements to purchase the return bend union. Not sure if that make that in a 3/4" press fitting so you may need to get a 3/4" press x Male adaptor and thread on the 3/4" threaded union bend. Just putting it back as is, with no union, may not be the best idea if you plan on living there for a while.

    .

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    delcrossv
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,184

    Replace it with one of these.

    17505236579113193368190452791679.jpg
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    PC7060Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,671
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1858372#Comment_1858372

    do this^^^^
    Leave the adapter as is and powder coat with radiator.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,199

    Is the bushing leaking on the large thread? If so that will probably involve cutting it out.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    PC7060
  • RTW
    RTW Member Posts: 232

    Notwithstanding the good expert advice thus far, some projects are Not DIY and best left to a qualified steam heating expert - even a pipe fitter may be an option. I removed over ten cast iron radiators for paint removal ( it was called soda blasting ) and used a ferrous metal paint to re-coat . That was 20 years ago and worked fine to date.

    My cast iron radiator connections were basically fine, though some did drip water now and then. The fix was to apply an ever-so-thin coat of pipe dope when reconnected that ended that issue

    Im thinking those parts must be salvaged - its not like you can go anywhere to get a replacement part on a 75 year old, or older, steam radiator connection

    All the best,

    RTW

    mattmia2

Categories