Best Of
Re: high humidity in my house
Not in a position to run all the numbers right now, but that HRV isn't helping you a bit. Consider: all the moisture it is bringing in from outside gets into your inside air unless it is taken out on the cooling coils.
You want to crank that chiller coil as low as it can safely go — and since it is water, 32 is it. Then crank up the air flow in the return (not the HRV) and the chiller power to run as much air as you can to get a discharge air temperature from the coil not higher than 40 (lower will be better)..
Re: Replacing cast iron radiator with smaller one
@EdTheHeaterMan Here is the install I did a while back. This is a pumped gravity conversion with modcon so lower temp.
Not the best picture but you can see the manifold in the wall, there are 4 parallel loops to reduce the pressure drop. Total needed was only 0.6 GPM so pressure drop is tiny as each loop is also pretty short. Flow is not an issue as delta T is less than 5F across the pipes.
The important bit (which you can just about see) the the rigid insulation installed by the rim joist sealed in place with canned foam. This type of setup won't work properly if that is not done.
This can be made to work with any setup (maybe not with a true gravity one) as long as there is a bit of upfront design.
Kaos
Re: Help: drain leak in slab under a radiant concrete overlay!
option 3: run a new line along another route. What’s the frost line (depth) for your area.
PC7060
Re: Help: drain leak in slab under a radiant concrete overlay!
Hi, I would want to know where all drain lines run, so I'd know what my options about tying into them might be. Another possibility with a kitchen sink is to call it grey water and run it out to the yard. Then simply cap the existing drain. That possibility might vary with local codes. If one section of (probably iron or steel) drain is failing, others are likely close. Can a plan be made for re-routing the lines out from under the slab? 🤔
Yours, Larry
Re: Leaking valve on water tank
This ^^^^^. Before you go to the trouble of replacing it, which would be a bore, try fixing it — which might take a few minutes…
Re: Help Sizing A Multi-Zone Mini Split System - Minimum Capacity?
This was done by an HVAC guy, not me. I have to trust that he did it right.
Thanks a lot for that calculation, I gave it a shot earlier on when I think you posted it in another thread. Will have to see how mine compares to what you provided.
Yes, the 900 gallons is for the entire house and hot water for July 24 to July 25.
She also keeps the house rather cold (approx 63F, I think?).
So you're saying that the heat load I mentioned above is too high since you feel that 44K BTU/hr is right for the entire house? The HVAC guy also has another 35K for the downstairs which basically mirrors the upstairs except for the loft area.
The ceiling above the stairs is actually really quite low already. I'm about 6'3 and I am quite close to the ceiling as I go up/down the stairs so they're probably the requisite 6'8" you mentioned.
Not quite sure why because there's just the attic above and as I recall, it's just flat up there.
JustinS
Re: OT What is this metal piece found in excavation?
it could be old lead sheathed uf
are there any older outbuildings that no longer have power?
lead sheathed uf was replaced with pvc uf in the 60's or so.
mattmia2
Re: COP & sizing question
If the home already has a fuel fired hydronic system, keep the boiler, modify the emitters if needed.
But installed cost of an A2whp is fairly $$
hot_rod