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Re: Boiler pressure at 40psi but relief valve rated at 30 psi not opening
Before I replaced my old boiler, I noticed one day the gauge was pegged all the way to the right, something like 100lbs or more. It stayed there after I released the pressure and was still reading over 100lbs the entire week it sat outside in the driveway waiting for the scrapper to come get it..
Those gauges do go bad, and as recommended above, do check yours with a known good gauge.
While I get that my gauge was bad, I don't understand how it got pegged all the way to the end of the dial, unless the default failure mode is designed to read too high than too low.. ??
Those gauges do go bad, and as recommended above, do check yours with a known good gauge.
While I get that my gauge was bad, I don't understand how it got pegged all the way to the end of the dial, unless the default failure mode is designed to read too high than too low.. ??
MaxMercy
1
Re: Beckett AF Oil Furnace Help
To put this in perspective, I came across a ThermoPride oil furnace. one of the old ones with a 2 piece fire brick chamber. It was saturated to the point where there was oil on the floor around the furnace. I knew enough to NOT try to light it. Gave the business owner the dirty details and replaced the primary control, removed the combustion chamber and set it in a trash can lid in the parking lot, and lit the chamber with a blow torch. Then I went back inside and put a full bag of oil dry inside the chamber compartment to absorb as much wet oil as I could. Every 15 minutes I went outside to check on the combustion chamber and it was a raging fire for over 1 hour. After swooshing the oil dry around the furnace, blower compartment and the burner compartment (Swooshing is a technical term) I was satisfied that the furnace was safe to operate.
But the fire brick chamber was still fully engulfed in flames 2 hours later. Not until 3 hours passed was the porous firebrick void of the saturation of fuel. At the end of 4 hours, I was able to reassemble the chamber inside the furnace and seal up all the doors with high temperature gasket material. I needed to spray the furnace with vinegar and odor gone spray for another hour after the furnace was lit.
So how can you tell how much oil is absorbed in the combustion chamber you have? Well it’s like a sponge. It can have 3 hours worth of fuel soaked in it or it can have 10 minutes worth soaked in it. Or it might have only a short rumble of fuel in it. Only you know how long the oil sprayed in there without burning. All that oil is still in there. Get a Pro to be safe.
But the fire brick chamber was still fully engulfed in flames 2 hours later. Not until 3 hours passed was the porous firebrick void of the saturation of fuel. At the end of 4 hours, I was able to reassemble the chamber inside the furnace and seal up all the doors with high temperature gasket material. I needed to spray the furnace with vinegar and odor gone spray for another hour after the furnace was lit.
So how can you tell how much oil is absorbed in the combustion chamber you have? Well it’s like a sponge. It can have 3 hours worth of fuel soaked in it or it can have 10 minutes worth soaked in it. Or it might have only a short rumble of fuel in it. Only you know how long the oil sprayed in there without burning. All that oil is still in there. Get a Pro to be safe.
Re: hydrostat 3250 and my new boiler
I may have misspoke. Perhaps perception is the incorrect term. The new normal is 2 hours based on energy saving technology. The fact that it warmed up in less time is based on the fact that there was a longer burn time in the past. The longer burn time allowed the water temperature to reach 175 within a few minutes. The new normal has a series of short burn times over 2 hours. Since you may hear the burner come on several times over that two hour period, it appears that the flame is on longer, but if you actually timed the flame on over 2 hours with the new control, and compare it to old one shot long burn time within 30 minutes, there will be very little difference in burn time. That is because 8 or 9 short burn times feels like more fuel is being used because you hear more starts. But do you hear the offs?
However I agree with you on how it should work. And I have a fix. There is a way to make that happen using a two stage heating thermostat. Usually used on heat pumps to bring on the electric resistance heat when the lower temperature heat pump compressor warm air is not enough to get the house comfortable. We can employ the same concept. When you turn your thermostat back to a higher temperature, the difference between the room temperature and the desired (or setpoint) temperature will be greater than the 1°F difference required for the second stage thermostat to call for auxiliary heat. (W2)
By adding a simple relay to the second stage heat (W2) the contacts on that additional relay can connect the ZC and ZR on the Hydrostat 3250 and fool it into DHW mode, allowing the high temperature limit to take control getting the boiler water up to the desired temperature immediately upon a call for set forward to the warmer home. This will drop out when the room temperature gets close to the set point and the W2 stage drops out, automatically reverting to the ODR function that you really want to keep operational for the most economical operation.
I would need to know more about your system to come up with a plan for your home, however here is one idea I have come up with that will work if you have only one zone of heating. The attached file allows for a thermostat that requires a common if you wish to use a WiFi compatible thermostat.
However I agree with you on how it should work. And I have a fix. There is a way to make that happen using a two stage heating thermostat. Usually used on heat pumps to bring on the electric resistance heat when the lower temperature heat pump compressor warm air is not enough to get the house comfortable. We can employ the same concept. When you turn your thermostat back to a higher temperature, the difference between the room temperature and the desired (or setpoint) temperature will be greater than the 1°F difference required for the second stage thermostat to call for auxiliary heat. (W2)
By adding a simple relay to the second stage heat (W2) the contacts on that additional relay can connect the ZC and ZR on the Hydrostat 3250 and fool it into DHW mode, allowing the high temperature limit to take control getting the boiler water up to the desired temperature immediately upon a call for set forward to the warmer home. This will drop out when the room temperature gets close to the set point and the W2 stage drops out, automatically reverting to the ODR function that you really want to keep operational for the most economical operation.
I would need to know more about your system to come up with a plan for your home, however here is one idea I have come up with that will work if you have only one zone of heating. The attached file allows for a thermostat that requires a common if you wish to use a WiFi compatible thermostat.
Re: Wood-fired Steam Heating
maybe in the absence of air,
but it's easier to push air out at 2psi, than it is at 30, right?
but it's easier to push air out at 2psi, than it is at 30, right?
neilc
1
Re: hydrostat 3250 and my new boiler
So I had to pull the connectors off the ODR.that actually makes my timeclock idea easier,
have the clock make or break the ODR at say 6am - 9am, then run the ODR rest of the day,
truth is though, your still burning the same gas doing that come back from set back, guess you can be eco the other 20 hrs of a day
@EdTheHeaterMan could draw you a nice diagram,
or @109A_5 as he's here already,
neilc
1
Re: hydrostat 3250 and my new boiler
I’m confused. You are going to use the same fuel to recover from a setback regardless. Is there some free heat you get from a fast recovery?TerrS said:Yes but that burns the same amount of fuel, because it takes 2+ hours to get the water to the temperature I need. I really want the thermal boost to react quicker.ethicalpaul said:Can’t you start the recovery earlier?
Re: The case of the backward flow, this Friday's case
I wasn't familiar with that burnham model so looked it up. In case anyone else isn't familiar with the internals of that unit here's a snapshot
dko
2
Re: Munchkin updated
So far so good ,good turn down ,pump built in ,easy access to combustion chamber for cleaning but truth is time will tell . I ve done all in my powers to make sure everything is correct up to,and including water quality so time will tell .
As for installing each unit has it’s learning curve and ever installer finds his way . Personally for mod con I like a water tube over a fire tube but that’s me . I like the idea of my heat exchanger having its own pump for circulation and to ensure enough velocity to flush and scour debrie .
All in all for the money there a good unit no better no worse if properly installed ,programmed and set up as most units in its price range . The 10 to 1 turndown is also nice . Most likely when my munchkin kicks it I ll put in a elu . Thanks for the kind words
Peace and good luck clammy
As for installing each unit has it’s learning curve and ever installer finds his way . Personally for mod con I like a water tube over a fire tube but that’s me . I like the idea of my heat exchanger having its own pump for circulation and to ensure enough velocity to flush and scour debrie .
All in all for the money there a good unit no better no worse if properly installed ,programmed and set up as most units in its price range . The 10 to 1 turndown is also nice . Most likely when my munchkin kicks it I ll put in a elu . Thanks for the kind words
Peace and good luck clammy
clammy
1
Re: Wood-fired Steam Heating
I hate to sound fanatical (well, I sometimes am...) but... any solid fuel fired boiler, steam or hot water, should, in my humble opinion, have two safeties on it in addition to the usual ones. First, a thermal link on the dampers so that if the unit overheats the thermal link melts and the dampers close completely. Second, if is steam, if it is at all possible a gravity water supply sufficient to feed the boiler for the duration of the largest load with no condensate return (as well as a Hartford Loop of course).
Consider. With a gas or oil fired boiler, if the electrical supply fails or is cut off by one of the safeties, the boiler stops -- right now. With solid fuel... it just keeps right on going.
But that's just me.
Consider. With a gas or oil fired boiler, if the electrical supply fails or is cut off by one of the safeties, the boiler stops -- right now. With solid fuel... it just keeps right on going.
But that's just me.
Taco zone valve
I have 2 zones. The upstairs is not getting any heat while downstairs is fine. Replaced the upper thermostat. The valve control shows 2 yellow lights indicating calls for heat.zone 1 red light is on while furnace heats downstairs.No red light for zone 2. The zone 2 baseboard water line is not warm. T h e valve units power supply is open and the unit is hot to touch. Could the power supply unit be burnt out and stuck open? Any other suggestions as to why zone 2 isn't heating ?
virgb
1