Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Re: Carlin G3B Combustion Problem
I am just spitballing here. When the burner was new you were able to get 9% CO2 and 0PPM CO at 475° stack temperature. The fan was new, and clean, the air gate adjustment was new and clean, the mixing plate at the end of the burner was new and clean. If the fan has 12 years of household dust build up and the air adjustment has some dust on it I'm sure the static pressure of the dirty fan and air adjustment is different from the day it was new. How well did you clean the burner on the last maintenance? did you actually brush all the dirt off of the fan blades individually? Are all the air handling parts as clean as new? Sometimes it is the simple things that are overlooked. You may need to look closer at the burner parts.
Mr. Ed
Mr. Ed
Question about the PSI of 1" Poly water pipe vs wall thickness
Looking at poly pipe, True Value has 1" pipe that is rated at 125psi. I measured the wall diameter to be a little bit over 0.07. Home Depot also has 1" poly pipe, that is rated at 100psi. From their specs, the wall diameter is 0.08". How come the thicker pipe at Home Depot has a lower PSI rating than the thinner walled True Value pipe? I've been shopping for poly pipe because I will be replacing a short piece that goes from the pump output to my storage tank and it is marked 125psi.
https://ithacaagway.com/p/polyethylene-pipe-008588613100
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-100-ft-IPS-100-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-1100100/205903465
https://ithacaagway.com/p/polyethylene-pipe-008588613100
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-100-ft-IPS-100-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-1100100/205903465
Jersey2
1
Re: Is there a typical part of an oil boiler that corrodes out first ?
@Dave Carpentier You are asking for a reason... if you are looking at a boiler that has operated with low stack temperature and low return water temperature for many years, then the corrosion would eat thru the coolest part of the boiler exhaust path. Right where the cold return water enters and the flue gas exhaust leaves the boiler. depending on the boiler design that part may be the cast iron section where the vent connector pipe is connected to the boiler like the rear flue on a Weil McLain 68 or GO boiler. If there is a collector box that attaches to the top of the boiler then that part may fail before the cast iron fails like the Weil McLain GO top flue boilers.
I have also seen steel boilers with a bunch of rust in the fire tubes but very little soot. So Dave, can you be more specific on what you are looking at that made you ask this question?
Mr. Ed
I have also seen steel boilers with a bunch of rust in the fire tubes but very little soot. So Dave, can you be more specific on what you are looking at that made you ask this question?
Mr. Ed
Weil Mclain Ultra 105 (series 2) intermittent response to call for heat
I have a 10 year old WM Ultra 105 boiler, with indirect HW. In the past several weeks, boiler (intermittently) simply doesn't respond to calls for household heat from programmable Honeywell Thermostat, but NO error codes, soft or hard. My first thought was that the TT relay was worn out (TT 10 years old) since when I disconnected TT from wall and reconnected, boiler woke up and started heating cycle. I replaced TT with new programmable Honeywell TT, (new TT batteries, too) and checked/resecured the TT wires at the boiler low voltage power strip, but no change in intermittent behavior.
Boiler is operating properly when it does fire up, and I see no problem with DHW call for heat (although perhaps I might not notice that if it, too was intermittent).
Some more details -- it seems to consistently happen first thing in the morning; when I wake the TT says "heat on" but the WM readout is something like 088 -- no error codes, just quiet, as if no call for heat. If I manually lower TT so that stops call for heat, then raise to call for heat, the boiler cycles on and all is fine -- until it happens again.
One more detail -- I have repeatedly reset the boiler and also powered off and on. When I power on, I see U124 code for about a second, but then it disappears. (I read in control manual that this code can mean bad transformer.) Also, don't know if it is significant, but I've observed boiler, when heating the house, overshoot 190 temp and shut off, only to turn right on again with a lower output temp.
Any suggestions for further tests or ideas? I'll replace control module if I have to, but hoping not.
Thank You!
Boiler is operating properly when it does fire up, and I see no problem with DHW call for heat (although perhaps I might not notice that if it, too was intermittent).
Some more details -- it seems to consistently happen first thing in the morning; when I wake the TT says "heat on" but the WM readout is something like 088 -- no error codes, just quiet, as if no call for heat. If I manually lower TT so that stops call for heat, then raise to call for heat, the boiler cycles on and all is fine -- until it happens again.
One more detail -- I have repeatedly reset the boiler and also powered off and on. When I power on, I see U124 code for about a second, but then it disappears. (I read in control manual that this code can mean bad transformer.) Also, don't know if it is significant, but I've observed boiler, when heating the house, overshoot 190 temp and shut off, only to turn right on again with a lower output temp.
Any suggestions for further tests or ideas? I'll replace control module if I have to, but hoping not.
Thank You!
JTecosky
1
Re: I hate my steam risers
VRA, Did you find a solution? If not, here are my 2 cents. The top-of-riser air vent on single-pipe steam risers does not need to be at ceiling level. The riser can be cut off 12" above the floor and capped with a nipple to install a quieter riser vent such as a Hoffman 4A. I agree with the person who recommended the Heat Timer adjustable air vent for the radiator. The next part of the investigation is to find out the steam pressure settings for the boiler. This system was designed to distribute steam at 1 pound or less, but many boilers are set up initially at 5 pounds. James Blum PE
jblum
2
Re: Air vent
Not my handy work, it was thrown in to replace a dead Baxi unit so the sale would go through.
And actually was plumbed better. The original setup had no 2nd pump and just was piped boiler output to the floor manifold and floor return right to the boiler return.
The rest of the pex is dhw that's cobbled together.
And actually was plumbed better. The original setup had no 2nd pump and just was piped boiler output to the floor manifold and floor return right to the boiler return.
The rest of the pex is dhw that's cobbled together.
nate379
1
Air vent
Is an air vent mandatory for a closed loop system?
The white pex goes to an expansion tank.
The whole se
The white pex goes to an expansion tank.
The whole se
nate379
1
Re: Splitting a Rad
It was taught to me when I was a kid assembling with push nipples . With the tapered connection the Permatex acted like a lubricant and also fills in any surface imperfections .Its a job you want to get it right the first time. I hated using the stuff ,it was before we used disposable gloves . I always felt better using the soft set just incase . I would use it today because I know it works .
The larger boilers and were sold in sections and assembled on site . The bigger the better back then .. The pinch rods are used to pull it all together . You tighten up and pulled in evenly Some of the boiler pinch rods came with break away nuts . Anyone knows the reason ? I was told for freeze ups . Not sure if it was true .Which never made sense to me . Maybe torque nuts ?
I wouldn't start the job without access to push nipples , sometimes you have to cut them out . Cutting them out , take care not to cut into the cast section . With a non thread tapered nipple most times one cut is all that is needed.
With the internet or knowledge of an older supply house I am sure you can find them .We still use them today .Maybe with any luck , all the set nipples will mate up.
The larger boilers and were sold in sections and assembled on site . The bigger the better back then .. The pinch rods are used to pull it all together . You tighten up and pulled in evenly Some of the boiler pinch rods came with break away nuts . Anyone knows the reason ? I was told for freeze ups . Not sure if it was true .Which never made sense to me . Maybe torque nuts ?
I wouldn't start the job without access to push nipples , sometimes you have to cut them out . Cutting them out , take care not to cut into the cast section . With a non thread tapered nipple most times one cut is all that is needed.
With the internet or knowledge of an older supply house I am sure you can find them .We still use them today .Maybe with any luck , all the set nipples will mate up.
Big Ed_4
2
Re: Question on Gas Boilers
As much to be contrarian as anything -- but how long do you expect a metal chimney to last? Never mind a power venter? There are three masonry chimneys in the main house I care for. They date from about 1800 to 1893. None leak... Another house I care for has only one, built in about 1740. It doesn't leak either...
