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LG Heat Pump Need Neutral?
I had 3 LG heat pumps units installed (LUU18HHV, LUU24HHV and LYY48HHV) and I just noticed that the wiring to each unit includes 2 hots and a green ground. No neutral wire.
I opened the outdoor disconnect but not the wiring panel on the LG units.
I know enough to know that a ground does not take the place of (or serve the same purpose as) a neutral. Nonetheless, this is a single family house in a rural area and the grounds and neutral lines are all tied together in the breaker panel.
Is this okay?
Here's a pic:
(Don't know why a black and a red were used.)
josephny
1
Re: Not enough heat from a SYSTEM 2000
Thank you @EBEBRATT-Ed and @teablender.
@teablender, you mentioned you might try turning on option switch 9 in your post. This allows the boiler to run hotter which will boost the heat output of the baseboard. Please try this as it can increase the baseboard heat output by up to 25% or over 100 BTU/ft of fin tube. It is possible that your prior boiler was set to run at higher temperatures, having a similar effect on increasing the output of the baseboard as option switch 9. I suspect this will work well in your case as you mentioned in your post that you can maintain 65°F with switch 9 off.
For reference, some site specific conditions can reduce the output of the baseboard. If the louvers are closed, plush new wall to wall carpeting and padding is installed, dust builds up on the fin tube, or furniture or anything else blocks or reduces the airflow across the fins, it can substantially reduce heat output.
As an additional point of reference regarding the sizing of your particular boiler, since the burner fires for 5 minutes and is off for 10 minutes, that means it is only on for 1/3 of the time. Effectively it has 3 times the capacity as your connected baseboard so the firing rate is not the problem.
Best,
Roger
@teablender, you mentioned you might try turning on option switch 9 in your post. This allows the boiler to run hotter which will boost the heat output of the baseboard. Please try this as it can increase the baseboard heat output by up to 25% or over 100 BTU/ft of fin tube. It is possible that your prior boiler was set to run at higher temperatures, having a similar effect on increasing the output of the baseboard as option switch 9. I suspect this will work well in your case as you mentioned in your post that you can maintain 65°F with switch 9 off.
For reference, some site specific conditions can reduce the output of the baseboard. If the louvers are closed, plush new wall to wall carpeting and padding is installed, dust builds up on the fin tube, or furniture or anything else blocks or reduces the airflow across the fins, it can substantially reduce heat output.
As an additional point of reference regarding the sizing of your particular boiler, since the burner fires for 5 minutes and is off for 10 minutes, that means it is only on for 1/3 of the time. Effectively it has 3 times the capacity as your connected baseboard so the firing rate is not the problem.
Best,
Roger
Roger
2
Re: SpacePak ESP-D capacitor replacement
I don't know about space pak specifically but they are usually mounted to the blower housing or the motor itself. Sticking a phone in and taking some pictures might help. I'd check the play in the bearings and remove the blower wheel and scrub it out with some detergent and a brush while I was in there.
mattmia2
2
Re: Primary Loop - 1 1/4" vs 1"
Your secondary piping wants to pull as many btus as it needs at any given time anyway, might as well make it happy and remove problems down the road.Could you elaborate on this? I just don't see any situation where I'll need more BTUs than a 1" primary can provide. I get that Laars specs the primary at 1 1/4" in case CH demand really is 140K, but that's definitely not my use case.
I would just pipe it in 1 1/4 for the boiler loop.So far we have SummitMechanic and the Laars manual on the 1 1/4" side.
Ironman and hot_rod on the 1" side.
Re: Oldest steam boiler still in use
BTW, I know this boiler is about 95 years old because I recognized the address as the house my father grew up in. The house was built by my grandfather in the mid 1920’s.
SamG
5
Re: Primary Loop - 1 1/4" vs 1"
You’ve got a scenario which is not ideal: namely, your primary loop requires more flow than the total of your secondaries. A buffer tank is the best solution, but a hydro-sep will help.
A 1-1/4” line is good for about 14-16 gpm; a 1” is good for 8-10.
The connection size at the unit is not relevant to pipe sizing.
A 140k btu boiler needs a 1-1/4” line to maintain 14 gpm at a 20* delta T. However, your secondary is only gonna carry about 6 gpm if your loops are 1/2”.
Your boiler is more than twice the size needed for space heating because it’s sized for domestic output.
You could get by with 1” if you limit the firing rate for space heating to 80k or less.
A 1-1/4” line is good for about 14-16 gpm; a 1” is good for 8-10.
The connection size at the unit is not relevant to pipe sizing.
A 140k btu boiler needs a 1-1/4” line to maintain 14 gpm at a 20* delta T. However, your secondary is only gonna carry about 6 gpm if your loops are 1/2”.
Your boiler is more than twice the size needed for space heating because it’s sized for domestic output.
You could get by with 1” if you limit the firing rate for space heating to 80k or less.
Ironman
2
Re: Moline Steam System - Update
@Ironman , if all the rads look like the one in the second pic, it's not original. That type of rad came out about 1925. Before that they would have used column-type rads like the American Peerless or Rococo.
If the house originally had one-pipe steam, it's possible the Moline was retrofitted.
If the house originally had one-pipe steam, it's possible the Moline was retrofitted.
Re: Navien hot water heater toxic gases?
Are there any similar homes recently built nearby by the same contractors? If so, they might be experiencing the same thing.
CLamb
1