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Re: True vs. Published Steam Radiator EDR
Radiator sizing and EDR are usually somewhat subjective anyways. For example- btu/240 = sq.ft. edr is a 'rule of thumb' that will only get you close if you are around sea level. Even there its still b.s.
Nowhere in that equation is the temperature of the steam based on elevation or even the average temp of steam in the radiator which is 95% of the temp of the steam at the boiler.
I tend to size radiators with warren websters charts in the 1922 book titled steam heating. Its on this site someplace. I have a couple hard cover copies here at the shop. Radiators themselves are all different when it pertains to EDR. a 60 sq. ft 4 column radiator will do a poorer job of heating than a 60 sq. ft. two column. I know I probably just opened a can of worms.
Nowhere in that equation is the temperature of the steam based on elevation or even the average temp of steam in the radiator which is 95% of the temp of the steam at the boiler.
I tend to size radiators with warren websters charts in the 1922 book titled steam heating. Its on this site someplace. I have a couple hard cover copies here at the shop. Radiators themselves are all different when it pertains to EDR. a 60 sq. ft 4 column radiator will do a poorer job of heating than a 60 sq. ft. two column. I know I probably just opened a can of worms.
Re: Should I replace my well pressure tank? Pictures of inlet
Pump sizing back in the day was tricky, you needed a rather large tank to accept, between 40 and 60 psi, atleast 1 minute of run time, 2 minutes is better but even 1 minutes worth is optimistic. Even a largish tank is only going to take 10 gallons to fill the bladder between 40/60 in 1 minute.
the purpose of the run time is to dissipate the heat generated during start up. A pump that’s running is a happy pump, short cycling will shorten its life.
The upgrade we offer is the Franklin electric SubDrive which is a three phase induction(the newest ones are permanant magnet) motor which matches RPM between 1800 and 4800 to meet the demand with soft start rather than the typical pump running at 0 or 3450 rpm. You can now pump 15, 20, 25 gpm into the house at 70 psi using a 1.5/ 2 horse power motor without needing anything bigger than a 202 sized tank and in applications around 15 gpm we’ve used a stainless tank on the wall thats the size of a thermal expansion tank although I notice the pressure is steadier with the bigger tank, with the added benefit of built in pump protection in case you over pump the well. Not your cheapest option but when you compare apples to apples the price difference closes a bit because of the smaller tank and the smaller wire sizes allowed on the three phase wire chart.
if you priced out a standard system that could pump 20 gallons a minute vs a constant pressure I feel like you are getting a better value with the constant pressure because the performance is noticeably better even if the total expense is a little higher.
We actually special order 1”x 600’ rolls of 315 psi poly and routinely install 2 hp SubDrive motors with 10 gpm heads on them and they perform, at 70 psi, all the way down to the pump. To do this with a standard system just isn’t realistic.
in situations where the pump doesn’t need to be installed as deep higher gpm pump ends are installed on the same motor and it translates to a lot more water into the house but gives up the ability to pump to those depths.
the purpose of the run time is to dissipate the heat generated during start up. A pump that’s running is a happy pump, short cycling will shorten its life.
The upgrade we offer is the Franklin electric SubDrive which is a three phase induction(the newest ones are permanant magnet) motor which matches RPM between 1800 and 4800 to meet the demand with soft start rather than the typical pump running at 0 or 3450 rpm. You can now pump 15, 20, 25 gpm into the house at 70 psi using a 1.5/ 2 horse power motor without needing anything bigger than a 202 sized tank and in applications around 15 gpm we’ve used a stainless tank on the wall thats the size of a thermal expansion tank although I notice the pressure is steadier with the bigger tank, with the added benefit of built in pump protection in case you over pump the well. Not your cheapest option but when you compare apples to apples the price difference closes a bit because of the smaller tank and the smaller wire sizes allowed on the three phase wire chart.
if you priced out a standard system that could pump 20 gallons a minute vs a constant pressure I feel like you are getting a better value with the constant pressure because the performance is noticeably better even if the total expense is a little higher.
We actually special order 1”x 600’ rolls of 315 psi poly and routinely install 2 hp SubDrive motors with 10 gpm heads on them and they perform, at 70 psi, all the way down to the pump. To do this with a standard system just isn’t realistic.
in situations where the pump doesn’t need to be installed as deep higher gpm pump ends are installed on the same motor and it translates to a lot more water into the house but gives up the ability to pump to those depths.
Re: can dishwasher got damaged by running with hot water disconnected
If I disconnect a trap on a sink and don't properly cap it off, and there is a back up or someone runs, the sink, that's on me. I've seen Judges rule that way too in lawsuits. Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Really Weird P-Trap Config: Is This A Problem
I don't think that 1.5" vs 2" is a big difference in velocity and there are definitely good reasons to increase a shower or a washer standpipe or a laundry tub or kitchen sink. If you get too carried away with upsizing things you could end up with problems with clogging.
mattmia2
1
Re: Really Weird P-Trap Config: Is This A Problem
With all the hair and the trash and the gunk that goes down the kitchen and bathroom sinks, we run 2in for everything. We have done it on all of the houses we have done.ChrisJ said:Kitchen sinks are 1 1/2" and bathroom sinks are 1 1/4" typically, so I'm not sure how there's no drain under 2" in the entire house? Reasons to use 1 1/2" on a washing machine? No idea, I'd go 2" assuming there's room. There's often stuff in walls that could prohibit such things.
For the kitchen sink 2 in no problem, the ones we choose fit natively. For the bath sink the biggest we can usually find is one and a half so we use a conversion before we get to the trap. The stand pipe from the sink goes into a 1 1/2 to 2 in and the trap is 2in.
Again, this is the opinion of someone who is strictly an amateur. If you do it otherwise that is fine with me.
gotgas
1
Re: Really Weird P-Trap Config: Is This A Problem
Sometimes one is constrained by circumstances. The question is does it work? Does the trap need to be that deep? It might have been better to move that vent around then to increase the distance from the trap 90 to the drain/vent. With a trap that deep, I would not expect the trap to siphon. With the washing machine pumping water so fast would the water backup the riser because of the tight 90's of the trap?
Try it before you buy it (before drywalling it up).
Try it before you buy it (before drywalling it up).
Really Weird P-Trap Config: Is This A Problem
Our plumber installed this P-trap for the drain for the washing machine. Looks pretty strange to me and I am concerned that once water is pumping through it it will not have the capacity to drain fast enough that it will not overflow. I think he did it because we are fairly restricted in our space in this area. What do you all think? We have insulation coming next week and sheet rock the week after so if we are going to change it we need to do it soon.
gotgas
1
Re: Charging What??!!
Huge chunk I'm sure...the Days of Managers totally billing the artist in largely passed. Good for her and all the super rich athletes. **** Butkus, in his best year, early 1970s was highest paid NFL Player in History $200,000 a year...C.O.L.A. ... I know.... Mad Dog 🐕
