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Re: Can you record heating zone activity? Using a device or add on?
@hot_rod - it can be useful to get per-zone data as the behavior between zones can vary significantly depending on how well/badly the system is designed (and with his 7-zone system, short cycling seems like the most obvious problem to look out for). Looking at the last few days from my system, for instance:
- Total_run_duty_cycle T 0.26 B 0.06 1st 0.17 2nd 0.06 Cycle_count: T 12 B 6 1st 8 2nd 8
- Total_run_duty_cycle T 0.23 B 0.03 1st 0.15 2nd 0.05 Cycle_count: T 14 B 2 1st 11 2nd 7
- Total_run_duty_cycle T 0.17 B 0.07 1st 0.08 2nd 0.05 Cycle_count: T 8 B 4 1st 5 2nd 3
- Total_run_duty_cycle T 0.16 B 0.08 1st 0.08 2nd 0.02 Cycle_count: T 7 B 5 1st 3 2nd 2
fentonc
1
Re: Burnham ES2 low return water temperature
Don’t bother with that bypass kit, it will not do what you think it will. Image 70 return from the radiators, boiler supplying under 130F for 20 minutes. How does that pump increase the return. It doesn’t, can’t won’tThe bypass pump will likely reduce the flow through the boiler down to 1Gpm or less when its 70F return., which is not a problem. Its not just temperature that matters, but the flow rate, especially with higher mass cast iron boiler ( won't work on low mass boilers like a copper tube). Thaat's how bypass piping works ( which is essentially what this pump set up its doing). If return temperature was the only criteria that needed to be met, nearly all two pipe steam boilers would be condensing nearly constantly since the return water is typically near room temperature much if not all winter. However, since steam systems only have to move about 1/50th the amount of water for the same btu output, return flow rates are quite low.
Buy a VS set point circ and one of these two piping. I added a buffer on one drawing to help that small radiant zone to not short cycle the boiler.
In these drawings the vs circ becomes your “thermal clutch”. Via the wonders of primary secondary piping the boiler disconnects from the load, until the boiler catches up.
The VS circ allows only the gpm the boiler can provide while staying above 130 return. So you will always get some amount to the radiators, 100% flow when return sees 130
100% absolute protection. Possibly less $$ also. Any circ operated by a tekmar vs control would work.
But some piping changes required.
If it were zone valves with a single circ, a simple thermostatic valve could have been installed. And eliminated about 500W of circulators
Re: Negative DC Voltage?
Negative DC Voltage?
Why all the negative talk? Everyone is always blaming the other guys... Electrical engineers are blaming the equipment designers. On the job technicians are blaming the electrical engineers... Democrats are blaming Trump. Republicans are blaming Biden... and nothing is getting done... We need to STOP all the negativity!And we should all start with DC Voltage.
Who is with me on this?
Who is with me on this?
Re: New Zone for Hot Water Heating
I have a two zone hot water heating system with a circulator pump on each zone. I added a new branch (for a new radiator) to Zone 2 with a tee on the radiator side of the circulator pump. But the hot water won't flow into the new branch on its own (path of higher resistance?). It works fine when I isolate/shut Zone 1, but not when both Zones are running.Based on the description above This is the drawing I come up with. There is something missing.
Can you make a drawing on paper and take a picture of it with your phone and let us see what you are talking about?
OR
Tale a picture of the Tee fitting you connected the new radiator from far enough back to see where the pipes are going. Boiler picture from floor to ceiling so we can see all the near boiler piping including the TEE you are talking about.
Re: New Zone for Hot Water Heating
I have a two zone hot water heating system with a circulator pump on each zone. I added a new branch (for a new radiator) to Zone 2 with a tee on the radiator side of the circulator pump. But the hot water won't flow into the new branch on its own (path of higher resistance?). It works fine when I isolate/shut Zone 1, but not when both Zones are running.
How do you know there's no flow?
Re: Gas Smell on Start of Gas Boiler - Columbia MCB-170J
Another cause of the gas smell could be that the chimney is down-drafting whenever there is no flame in the boiler. So a perfectly good (non leaking) gas appliance may release gas into the room because the chimney air is pushing the air flow the wrong way. On start up that air mixes with the gas to the burners for a few seconds before ignition and ends up in the room. Once the gas burners ignite, the odor is burnt away with the flame. The byproducts of combustion may or may not enter the boiler room for some time until the chimney warms up and provides the proper draft for the removal of the byproducts of combustion.
Someone with a draft gauge designed for testing chimneys will be the best professional to find out if the poor draft or down draft condition is causing your odor issue. The gauge is inserted in the vent connector pipe before the appliance is turned on to measure the off-cycle draft. Once that reading is known the burners are ignited and the draft gauge is observed for any change in the chimney draft.
Only then can you be sure of the chimney situation. Just a simple cigarette smoke near the draft hood smoke direction is not going to give you the numbers. Chimney professionals or HVAC professional or an Oil Heat Technician may have that gauge. Here are the three most popular draft gauges.
Someone with a draft gauge designed for testing chimneys will be the best professional to find out if the poor draft or down draft condition is causing your odor issue. The gauge is inserted in the vent connector pipe before the appliance is turned on to measure the off-cycle draft. Once that reading is known the burners are ignited and the draft gauge is observed for any change in the chimney draft.
Only then can you be sure of the chimney situation. Just a simple cigarette smoke near the draft hood smoke direction is not going to give you the numbers. Chimney professionals or HVAC professional or an Oil Heat Technician may have that gauge. Here are the three most popular draft gauges.
Not enough hot water
I have a friend who has an old cast iron steam boiler. Running out of hot water. I suggested Cleaning the coil like I always do with an acid pump and sizzle. Hard water and all. He is going to put in a thermostatic mixing valve in when problem started not longer ago. I saw boiler its aged close to 40 years has separated high and low limits switches. Boiler is older than triple aquastats. I think sizzle through your coil w/ acid pump would be the route to go.. Anyone else have an opinion??
Re: Phasing out of r410 and what’s next r 32
pressures start to get crazy also in high pressure refrigerant systems, 300-400 psi? Some of the ultra high pressure 700 psi plus!CO2 is very high pressure. Still it was used over a century ago. With today's technology it's doable. An advantage of a cascade system is that the compression ratio for high pressure fluid like carbon dioxide can be modest.
jumper
1
Return of the lost radiator- removing a plug
I'm looking to re-add a radiator (one pipe steam) that was removed from my kitchen some time ago- maybe 15-20+ years ago. This plug seems to be where the original supply went. I have to imagine it's sealed shut at this point, but maybe not?
I'm tempted to try to open it up after heating season and pipe it myself- everything's easily accessible - but I'm afraid to damage the pipe or the encapsulated asbestos lagging.
How would you do it safely? I'm not opposed to calling in a pro if I'm likely to cause more damage to the main, but it seems like a fun project. Or a quick way to inhale some fibers.
hbock
1
Re: Has anyone used Lochinvar's Wireless Outdoor Sensor, or similar?
I installed it today. Doesn't work. I have to go through it tomorrow with HBX. It stops reporting the moment we leave the boiler room with the outdoor unit.
JohnNY
1