Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Re: Snow melt piping design
You should be good. The triangle tube should run about 95% efficient melting snow and the derate is 2% per thousand. That is where the 114.25 btu/ft came from. You should melt just fine with that setup, tubing, insulation and drainage look great. I would suggest manually putting it in storm mode to preheat the slab when the big dumps come. You can do Indirect off that boiler in the future. Just activate DHW priority and it will take a break from melting snow to heat your water.
Zman
1
Re: Lochinvar Ignition & Lockout
Quick update:
Vent caps are on.
Since the igniter/flame sensor were replaced, not a single ignition failure
Temps in the house rock solid
Will extend the air intake this spring and post to the forum the results. But that’ll be awhile.
Thank you all for your advice and counsel.
Vent caps are on.
Since the igniter/flame sensor were replaced, not a single ignition failure
Temps in the house rock solid
Will extend the air intake this spring and post to the forum the results. But that’ll be awhile.
Thank you all for your advice and counsel.
ayoder56
2
Re: Excess corrosion in recently new hydronic system
What type of buffer tank? Does it have anode rods in it?
hot_rod
1
Re: Circ pump stopped running continuously
Well... it obviously gets its power from somewhere. Best thing to do is find out where -- and why that power source now responds to the boiler and didn't before. Any chance that there was a duplicate power source wired in from somewhere else that was always on -- but isn't now?
Re: Circ pump stopped running continuously
Hello all!
i have a l8148e with a circ pump that has been wired to run continuously for its whole life. My zone end switches have never been connected. I am fine with this. Recently my circulator pump changed behaviour to only running when the boiler fires. I have a l6006c aquastat wired to t tv.
What can i check to return circ pump to running continuously?
thanks a bunch
one water circuit in garage is unzoned and connects to a hydronic serpentine coil heater with a fan so water always can flow through it. Upstairs has one zone valve downstairs has one zone valve
Grundfos 15-58fc
it operates when the boiler fires
These two comments contradict "circ pump that has been wired to run continuously for its whole life". and "operates when the boiler fires"
Do you mean to say that "The boiler fired and the circulator operate constantly?"
Do you mean to say that "The boiler fired as a result of the L6006 Aquastsat and the circulator operated constantly?"
Do you mean to say that "a room thermostat fires the boiler as needed and the circulator operates constantly?"
If 1 & 2 are the case, then what keeps the garage from overheating, because the circulator will put hot water into the garage heater with the circulator pump on constant operation? With your limited description of your system, and the recent change in operation, with no apparent change in wiring, I find no logic in your query.
By looking at the wiring and reading your description of events, I might make this observation. At some early point in the lifetime of the system, the cover on the L8148E was placed on the control with a wire partially depressing the actual plastic relay contact actuator. This could make the contacts for the circulator pump engage resulting in constant pump operation by accident. When the T & TV terminals would get a call for heat, the plastic contact actuator of the relay would fully engage and operate the burners. When the call for heat was satisfied at the T & TV on the L8148E, the actuator might release the burner contact but the partially depressed contact actuator would keep the circulator contacts engaged, resulting in constant circulator operation.
Just a Wild **** Guess.
After a closer look at that photo, the black wire to the circulator (gray dash) is also close enough to the actuator to make the circulator pump operate constantly.
Again Just guessing. ...because the way that pump is wired to the control, it can only operate on a call for heat from T & TV on the aquastat under normal conditions. As a test of this theory, just pull up on the metal counter weight that is attached to the plastic contact actuator with no call for heat from the L6006 and observe the pump and burner operation.
Another thing I just thought of. more likely. What if the L6006 was set at say 190°F and the L8148 aquastat was set at 180°F. That would make the boiler operate as described because the L6006 will never get satisfied because the L8148 will not let the boiler temperature get to 190°F. But the burner will cycle on the 180°F limit.
Re: What do I need to know re getting a new oil tank?
-Double wall Roth tank is (should be) the same price as a single walled steel tank. It’s actually a little cheaper. And you might save a little on homeowners insurance. There’s really no downside.
-All new supply/return piping.
-New double filtration, OSV, properly installed firomatics, all to code.
-NO transfer of old oil. I don’t care how many times they’ll claim they filter it or that 'they do it all the time'. It may not become a problem, but if it does, it’ll be a giant PIA.
You might get a better price from a company that just does oil tanks.
Also, that QB 180 is obsolete. Most of the parts are universal, but there are some very important parts that are not. If they go, you could be buying a new burner at the most inconvenient time.
-All new supply/return piping.
-New double filtration, OSV, properly installed firomatics, all to code.
-NO transfer of old oil. I don’t care how many times they’ll claim they filter it or that 'they do it all the time'. It may not become a problem, but if it does, it’ll be a giant PIA.
You might get a better price from a company that just does oil tanks.
Also, that QB 180 is obsolete. Most of the parts are universal, but there are some very important parts that are not. If they go, you could be buying a new burner at the most inconvenient time.
Re: Old steam system, New to me
@KC_Jones -- Main vent appears to be woefully inadequate. Measure the length of each main, and the diameter and we can recommend how much main venting each will need. Most likely a Gorton #2 at minimum, but the length of mains will answer that.
Total Length of Mains: 578"
Main #1: 438"
Main #2: 140" (There is no vent in this main - it supplies 2 radiators, one upstairs and one downstairs. The downstairs one heats unevenly, the upstairs seems to heat as normal)
External Diameter is 2.25"
@JUGHNE -- On a positive note he did provide a skim tap out the left side of the boiler outlet.
Show us the pipe going into the boiler to see if there is a reducing bushing screwed into the boiler casting.
Is this what you are referring to?
Post a full picture of the label that shows the model and serial number.
You can down load the entire install manual, might be 50 pages long.
Or it may be lurking in the basement somewhere, probably no fingerprints on it from reading by installer.
I have the manual and it clearly does show the proper header piping, smh.
Where is that main vent located in the layout of the steam mains?
Total Length of Mains: 578"
Main #1: 438"
Main #2: 140" (There is no vent in this main - it supplies 2 radiators, one upstairs and one downstairs. The downstairs one heats unevenly, the upstairs seems to heat as normal)
External Diameter is 2.25"
@JUGHNE -- On a positive note he did provide a skim tap out the left side of the boiler outlet.
Show us the pipe going into the boiler to see if there is a reducing bushing screwed into the boiler casting.
Is this what you are referring to?
Post a full picture of the label that shows the model and serial number.
You can down load the entire install manual, might be 50 pages long.
Or it may be lurking in the basement somewhere, probably no fingerprints on it from reading by installer.
I have the manual and it clearly does show the proper header piping, smh.
Where is that main vent located in the layout of the steam mains?
Dathanz
1
Re: What do I need to know re getting a new oil tank?
Back when I started this work, the basement oil tanks available were 14 gauge for indoor use and 12 gauge for outdoor use. No one makes 14 gauge tanks anymore. Since your tank is installed in the basement, and it is so old, @Freedom may have a 14 gauge... so anything he purchases today will be an upgrade.
Re: What do I need to know re getting a new oil tank?
The least expensive option will be a Granby 220 most likely, but 275 might be less since they seem more common. The 220 has thinner 12 ga steel vs 10 ga for the 275. I use Fuel Right to prevent corrosion.The Granby 275 comes in either 12 gauge or 10 gauge. The 275's we got recently were 12-gauge. I'm assuming they're less expensive than the thicker 10 gauge.
jesmed1
1