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Re: Do you prefer the wool felt or the white fiber heating oil filter cartridge?
I like the Garber spin on but old generals were a work horse for a Century. That being said, Working on fuel whether its Natural gas, Diesel, Propane, #2 is DEADLY SERIOUS work...life or death sometimes! This is NOT for the DIY or handyman. At a minimum, you need a Semester of BOCES
Class on oil and gas ⛽ burners. This is NOT hobby. Don't wanna see you or your fambly get hurt, man. Fuel oil leaks even small ones are an environmental hazard. You can have fun all day repiping the hot water or steam piping in your house, but combustion is on a much higher level of Competency and risk. Be careful. Mad Dog
Class on oil and gas ⛽ burners. This is NOT hobby. Don't wanna see you or your fambly get hurt, man. Fuel oil leaks even small ones are an environmental hazard. You can have fun all day repiping the hot water or steam piping in your house, but combustion is on a much higher level of Competency and risk. Be careful. Mad Dog
Re: Is it possible I just cant get enough radiant floor output and will require supplemental heating?
You could use a mixing valve with an operator that responds to outdoor temperature ODR, that way you get close to constant circulation thru the radiators, the best way to run any heat emitter is constant circulation, and vary supply temperature.I like this idea. Does it make sense to run the floors at a fixed SWT (to max out their output) and run the rads at variable SWT so they compensate for increased heat loss at lower outdoor temp? If thats true, I wonder if it even makes sense to run the an ODR on the boiler itself. The included hydrostat control has thermal targeting that adjusts the boiler temp based on thermostat activity.
Numerous valves available to do this, tekmar, Taco, Belimo, others.
Only problem I see is that I was planning to run the upstairs rads (no floor heat) at max temp. If I went this way, I might need a separate pump for actual high temp. Though I was planning to zone the upstairs rads so maybe it would work pushing them all through the variable. This all gets really complicated
Re: Rumors on peerless
Here's the truth directly from Peerless this morning:
They are producing the 63-04 and will continue to do so. It will not be discontinued.
They are producing the 63-04 and will continue to do so. It will not be discontinued.
Re: CH set to 170 boiler doesn't reach it
Check the sensors with an ohm meter, you could have one out of range.
The troubleshooting pages explain how to get into installer mode to read any faults. The control will know why it didn’t reach the operating condition. Could be too high of a delta, high flue temperature or other issues.
You either have to sit in front of it, catch it in the act, could be the call for heat drops off before it hits the programmed temperature?
or pull the info from the data logging function deep in the control menu, the history mode.
The troubleshooting pages explain how to get into installer mode to read any faults. The control will know why it didn’t reach the operating condition. Could be too high of a delta, high flue temperature or other issues.
You either have to sit in front of it, catch it in the act, could be the call for heat drops off before it hits the programmed temperature?
or pull the info from the data logging function deep in the control menu, the history mode.
hot_rod
1
Re: Suspected leak from radiator steam pipe elbow joint
Remember this is a steam pipe. As the steam leaks out, it is lighter than air and will go UP before it hits the wood floor or metal pipe and condense on that surface. If enough condensation accumulates, that can cause a drip of water to stain that pipe as water is heavier than air and gravity will cause the water to drip DOWN. The space behind the basement drywall and the floor cavity ware super humidified for years since that was a very small steam leak.
Which reminds me of a story:
This church in Cape May needed a new steam boiler and I got the job. Removed a Mills that was well over 70 years old. Replaced it with a Weil McLain 78. After operating for the first month, I got a no heat call one Sunday morning. When I arrived the water feeder had stopped feeding water. The display meter read 999. I reset it, water flowed, and they had heat. But 999 gallons in one month was a gallon or two more than I expected for that amount of run time.
On Monday afternoon I returned to find where all this water was going. As it turns out there was dry return that came from the south hall wing of the system. That return was buried under sand in a very tight crawlspace. once I located the return pipe is discovered that 60% of the bottom ot that steel pipe was missing. Just rotted away. I also noticed that the floor supports and the floor boards for the office and bathrooms just above that buried pipe were all pressure treated lumber. That told me that this return pipe was leaking steam for some time.
You see, I figures that the floor in the Pastor's office was getting a little spongy and that one of the members of the church, probably a carpenter or builder, offered to fix the problem. Once the carpet was removed, they found all this rotted wood. The bad wood was removed and replaced with new lumber. That church was over 70 years old, so if it took 70 years for that wood to rot out, then regular lumber would last 70 more years , Right?
But it did not last that long. and in a few years the floor was rotting away again. Wow, that is odd. Well we know how to solve that problem. We will use pressure treated lumber. That stuff won't rot away any tome soon. Some time after that, this HVAC/Boiler guy happened to stumble across this leaking return pipe that was allowing the steam from that pipe to find its way thru the sand and super humidify the tiny crawlspace above it. Once the return pipe was replaced the boiler only used less than 1 gallon per month for make up water. I think that amount of make up water is acceptable.
The rotted wood above the elbow in the first picture reminded me of the Pastor's pressure treated floor.
Which reminds me of a story:
This church in Cape May needed a new steam boiler and I got the job. Removed a Mills that was well over 70 years old. Replaced it with a Weil McLain 78. After operating for the first month, I got a no heat call one Sunday morning. When I arrived the water feeder had stopped feeding water. The display meter read 999. I reset it, water flowed, and they had heat. But 999 gallons in one month was a gallon or two more than I expected for that amount of run time.
On Monday afternoon I returned to find where all this water was going. As it turns out there was dry return that came from the south hall wing of the system. That return was buried under sand in a very tight crawlspace. once I located the return pipe is discovered that 60% of the bottom ot that steel pipe was missing. Just rotted away. I also noticed that the floor supports and the floor boards for the office and bathrooms just above that buried pipe were all pressure treated lumber. That told me that this return pipe was leaking steam for some time.
You see, I figures that the floor in the Pastor's office was getting a little spongy and that one of the members of the church, probably a carpenter or builder, offered to fix the problem. Once the carpet was removed, they found all this rotted wood. The bad wood was removed and replaced with new lumber. That church was over 70 years old, so if it took 70 years for that wood to rot out, then regular lumber would last 70 more years , Right?
But it did not last that long. and in a few years the floor was rotting away again. Wow, that is odd. Well we know how to solve that problem. We will use pressure treated lumber. That stuff won't rot away any tome soon. Some time after that, this HVAC/Boiler guy happened to stumble across this leaking return pipe that was allowing the steam from that pipe to find its way thru the sand and super humidify the tiny crawlspace above it. Once the return pipe was replaced the boiler only used less than 1 gallon per month for make up water. I think that amount of make up water is acceptable.
The rotted wood above the elbow in the first picture reminded me of the Pastor's pressure treated floor.
Re: New Heat Pump with Oil Furnace Losing Prime ONLY after outside air temp goes below 32
Has this installation been passed by the local building inspector?
CLamb
1
Re: Do you prefer the wool felt or the white fiber heating oil filter cartridge?
I upgraded to spin-ons about 6 years ago. I'd never go back. Quick, clean, and apparently filters better.
Re: New Heat Pump with Oil Furnace Losing Prime ONLY after outside air temp goes below 32
Is the evaporator and oil filter in the cabinet directly under the burner?
If so (and try to follow the roller coaster), does the oil line run from near the bottom of the tank, out the top of the tank, then over and down about 5 ft. before it goes under the home. Then there's a horizontal run of unknown length under the home before it turns upward into the home. The oil line then continues upward above the height of the furnace, then another horizontal run of unknown length before it turns back downward, through the furnace compartment and into the evaporator compartment below the burner. Then a short horizontal run and after the oil filter it turns upward again into the burner compartment where it rises above the fuel pump, does a quick 180° and down into the fuel pump.
Do I have that right or am I trippin'?
If so (and try to follow the roller coaster), does the oil line run from near the bottom of the tank, out the top of the tank, then over and down about 5 ft. before it goes under the home. Then there's a horizontal run of unknown length under the home before it turns upward into the home. The oil line then continues upward above the height of the furnace, then another horizontal run of unknown length before it turns back downward, through the furnace compartment and into the evaporator compartment below the burner. Then a short horizontal run and after the oil filter it turns upward again into the burner compartment where it rises above the fuel pump, does a quick 180° and down into the fuel pump.
Do I have that right or am I trippin'?
HVACNUT
2
Re: Hydronic Radiant Floor HELP "Taco X-Pump Block & Taco Radiant Mixing Block"
The X block has a plate heat exchanger inside to isolate two seperate fluids. Possibly you have glycol loops?
The other block is a temperature mixing system, an injection mix module, basically
The other block is a temperature mixing system, an injection mix module, basically
hot_rod
1
Re: Question about nozzle size and my Hydrostat high/low settings.
Leave it where it is if you have comfort and hot water to your satisfaction. If you want to get bold, you can try setting high limit to 165° or even 160° if you want to test the limits of your system. What will happen? Nothing! You will not notice any difference because at that lower temperature the radiators will just take a little longer to heat the rooms and satisfy the thermostat. (and longer cycles are good). The only difference might happen when it gets very cold outside. If you notice that when the outside temperature drops below a certain number the thermostat can no longer keep up, that is because 160° radiators do not put enough heat in the home fast enough to keep up with how fast the heat is leaving the house.
So i have had it at 140 low and 170 high for about 14 months and i get enough heat and hot water so should i just leave it? Some are saying to put up to 190, and a low of 160 it gets confusing with different opinions? Now i cant change my differential on my hydrostat its set at 10 for my set up, now if i could change it would that give me better performance/less oil usage?
Here is an example. @ 160° your radiator might have a heating capacity of 480 BTU/h and a 10 ft radiator will then give off 4800 BTU/h.
If your room needs 5200 BTU/h on the coldest day of the year, then the temperature in that room will be fine until the outdoor temperature drops to say 16°F. from that point on the radiator will put out the same amount of heat and the circulator pump will run non stop. as the temperature drops to 15° then 14° the indoor temperature will drop from the 70° thermostat setting down to 69° the 68° and so on as the outdoor temperature drops. This is when you will discover that 160° radiator temperatue is insuffifient,
At that time you can increase the radiator temperature by setting the high limit to 160° and the problem will be solved. The same radiator with 165° water might have an output of 5000 BTU/h or maybe 5200 BTU/h at 170°. When the installer sets up your system, he does not know how the water temperature in the radiators will react on the coldest day of the year. He can only guess that if it worked with the old boiler or old control, that it should be fine wit the new control if set at the same setting. If he does not get a service call after the control was installed "Not enough heat" then they are done and a job well done. No additional service needed. If he gets that service call during a very cold event, then all he needs to do is to adjust the temperature on the limit 10° higher and apologize for the mistake of setting the limit too low.
As far as the adjustable differential on the low limit is concerned, I always set that at 10°. That is for hot water priority (leaving the space heating circulator off if the boiler water is too low to offer enough heat for the DHW coil). That will not effect the burner cycles during a call for hot water.