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You should be able to scroll through the and read the "flame ionization current" and compare it to the spec in the manual.
you comment above.
I tried to get in while the red screen of death was up(Flame Fail) and I was not able to put in the code to access. Even though problem is now fixed I could go ahead and do that now that it is running "normally" and it is accessible. I will try to do that and log it in my notes for future just the same. While doing that is there anything else that comes to mind I should check to have info for the future?
I believe there is also a HIGHER level of access that the pros use to go deeper than I can with my little, standard Lochinvar 5309 code. . . It may be in the manual for how to press the right buttons but I am not sure. If you know it and can tell me that may be useful. I am a mech. engineer and will be "careful"!
You should be able to find that info without 5309. I think it is accessible off the main menu.
I usually go into 5309 on startup and then push a pin into the little hole for service mode to do combustion tests.
what type of wire would you recommend using on my zone valves and the Taco control center you recommended? Right now its a freakin mess and would be a nightmare for someone other than me to follow since looks like spaghetti. I'll order some new wire with the Control. Thank you!0December 2020
ZmanAny 18 gauge t-stat wire will work. I usually buy 4 strand because it is more versatile.
How are you. We do not have a good manual 3 way option. We have a manifold group with various valve options and we used to sell that 3 way as a seperate piece. Never got much traction as we did not have a control option. We are working on a hydronic version of the LegioMix motorized 3 way ball valve. Huge Cv, I think it is in other Caleffi markets. Tough to compete with the I-valve.0December 2020