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Re: No hot water / mixing valve replaced
When something was working, sort of, and then something was done and now things don't work... the first place to look is at what was done.
In this case, try this: turn off the cold water line to the mixing valve. I hope there is a shutoff for that (edit -- I think I see a ball valve on that line. Good)((oh wait. Does the hot water coil also feed off that line? You may have to get creative...)? And then see if you get hot water flow. If you do there's no block in your new little elbow pipe -- which isn't likely, but one might as well find out. If there's no flow, or very weak, then either the mixing valve is stuck or there's a block in the elbow pipe going to it (I'm assuming here that you get adequate flow out of the hot water faucets -- just that it's cold?). Try adjusting the mixing valve adjustment. It should turn pretty freely (well, not spinning, but I dare say you know what I mean). Anything change? Also try giving it a whack. Don't be a gorilla, but don't be gentle either.
If you're handy with a torch, which it seems you are, it might be easier -- and quicker -- to disassemble the thing, put some temporary caps on as needed, and make sure you have flow through the boiler coil and the elbow -- and install a new mixing valve...
In this case, try this: turn off the cold water line to the mixing valve. I hope there is a shutoff for that (edit -- I think I see a ball valve on that line. Good)((oh wait. Does the hot water coil also feed off that line? You may have to get creative...)? And then see if you get hot water flow. If you do there's no block in your new little elbow pipe -- which isn't likely, but one might as well find out. If there's no flow, or very weak, then either the mixing valve is stuck or there's a block in the elbow pipe going to it (I'm assuming here that you get adequate flow out of the hot water faucets -- just that it's cold?). Try adjusting the mixing valve adjustment. It should turn pretty freely (well, not spinning, but I dare say you know what I mean). Anything change? Also try giving it a whack. Don't be a gorilla, but don't be gentle either.
If you're handy with a torch, which it seems you are, it might be easier -- and quicker -- to disassemble the thing, put some temporary caps on as needed, and make sure you have flow through the boiler coil and the elbow -- and install a new mixing valve...
Re: No hot water / mixing valve replaced
I wouldn't be surprised if the coupling after the first 90 had a blob of solder sitting in the middle restricting 95% of the flow. That's quite a lot of overflow solder on the fittings..
dko
3
Re: manifold first in first out question
First out, last back is how you do reverse return for balanced flow.
If you have a good pre-fab manifold with flow setters, it’s not that critical
If you have a good pre-fab manifold with flow setters, it’s not that critical
Ironman
3
Re: Theories
Water hammer......was it located in the correct place?Could be. Thought I haven't had any hammer in the eight years I've been running there.
Here's my th... hypothesis. Is this possible? It was a vacuum in the float. It's an old float, could have developed a very small leak. enough to allow a little water in. That water steamed and was then cooled enough to create a vacuum? Is that far fetched?
Grallert
2
Re: Hey Spray Painters! Question on Gloss clear coats (rattle cans)
Sanding is good before the finish colour coat, in my book anyway -- but not between the gloss colour coat and the finish clear coat. The ringer in the deck is to use fine sandpaper -- and I do mean fine. 400 to 800 is none too fine. You're not trying to smooth that finish colour coat finish much, just break the surface enough to get decent adhesion.
Re: High efficiency wall mount boiler diagram questions
I looked back and saw that @GroundUp wanted the left hand tee rotated 90° counterclockwise. I don't agree. A tee is a tee.
LG Heat Pump Need Neutral?
I had 3 LG heat pumps units installed (LUU18HHV, LUU24HHV and LYY48HHV) and I just noticed that the wiring to each unit includes 2 hots and a green ground. No neutral wire.
I opened the outdoor disconnect but not the wiring panel on the LG units.
I know enough to know that a ground does not take the place of (or serve the same purpose as) a neutral. Nonetheless, this is a single family house in a rural area and the grounds and neutral lines are all tied together in the breaker panel.
Is this okay?
Here's a pic:
(Don't know why a black and a red were used.)
josephny
1
Re: Not enough heat from a SYSTEM 2000
Thank you @EBEBRATT-Ed and @teablender.
@teablender, you mentioned you might try turning on option switch 9 in your post. This allows the boiler to run hotter which will boost the heat output of the baseboard. Please try this as it can increase the baseboard heat output by up to 25% or over 100 BTU/ft of fin tube. It is possible that your prior boiler was set to run at higher temperatures, having a similar effect on increasing the output of the baseboard as option switch 9. I suspect this will work well in your case as you mentioned in your post that you can maintain 65°F with switch 9 off.
For reference, some site specific conditions can reduce the output of the baseboard. If the louvers are closed, plush new wall to wall carpeting and padding is installed, dust builds up on the fin tube, or furniture or anything else blocks or reduces the airflow across the fins, it can substantially reduce heat output.
As an additional point of reference regarding the sizing of your particular boiler, since the burner fires for 5 minutes and is off for 10 minutes, that means it is only on for 1/3 of the time. Effectively it has 3 times the capacity as your connected baseboard so the firing rate is not the problem.
Best,
Roger
@teablender, you mentioned you might try turning on option switch 9 in your post. This allows the boiler to run hotter which will boost the heat output of the baseboard. Please try this as it can increase the baseboard heat output by up to 25% or over 100 BTU/ft of fin tube. It is possible that your prior boiler was set to run at higher temperatures, having a similar effect on increasing the output of the baseboard as option switch 9. I suspect this will work well in your case as you mentioned in your post that you can maintain 65°F with switch 9 off.
For reference, some site specific conditions can reduce the output of the baseboard. If the louvers are closed, plush new wall to wall carpeting and padding is installed, dust builds up on the fin tube, or furniture or anything else blocks or reduces the airflow across the fins, it can substantially reduce heat output.
As an additional point of reference regarding the sizing of your particular boiler, since the burner fires for 5 minutes and is off for 10 minutes, that means it is only on for 1/3 of the time. Effectively it has 3 times the capacity as your connected baseboard so the firing rate is not the problem.
Best,
Roger
Roger
2