Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Re: Two-Pipe Third Floor Radiator Slow to Heat
They are usually much larger. The big mouth is just a steam trap marketed as a main vent.
mattmia2
2
Re: Water heater replacement advice...
Thanks for the responses! Sounds pretty unanimous to go 40gal rather than 30 if only for cost. It really just depends on size. My boiler is in front of the WH with not a lot of space between.@edsut
@JUGHNE yes, it is raised off the floor by what appears to be about 18". Thanks for the pointer.
@EdTheHeaterMan I will look into a flex connector for the water line as well. That will make it easier for the "next" time. :-)
@Larry Weingarten not sure I understand regarding "...add a second magnesium anode...". Do you mean I modify a brand new WH before installing it, or is this a feature that I should make sure I get with whatever I buy?
To all: are there any preferred (or not-recommended) manufacturers?
I have installed probably, every manufacturers water heater that is made.
Probably over a thousand by now.
A company that I have found that is excellent Is Bradford White.
Check out Bradford White water heaters. They do things internally that others do not do.
There water heaters are a great investment through out there entire line.
Others are very similar and often a little less money initially.
Intplm.
1
Re: Random lockouts on Wayne burner
Nuisance lock outs are the worst. Is there smoke on start up? Is there an iron core ignition transformer in place?
Grallert
1
Re: Random lockouts on Wayne burner
Was a modern primary control like the Carlin 70200 or Honeywell/Resideo R7284U installed? These will help you troubleshoot the issue by indicating the cause of the fault in the history.
Re: Random lockouts on Wayne burner
With the homeowner working on it, and someone firing the parts cannon at it, who knows?
I don’t understand your smoke number. Is it 0 or is it a trace?
What is your excess air?
Why were all those parts changed? Was there excessive back pressure? Is there a problem in the CAZ?
I don’t understand your smoke number. Is it 0 or is it a trace?
What is your excess air?
Why were all those parts changed? Was there excessive back pressure? Is there a problem in the CAZ?
Re: Counterflow header
@ethicalpaul
What I meant was wet steam, dry steam whatever after combustion takes place the heat goes into the water to make steam, up the flue or through the boiler jacket and into the basement.
If you read about commercial boilers they talk about "fuel to steam efficiency" that all there is. Whatever boiler converts the most fuel btus to lbs of steam (BTUs) the best is the most efficient boiler.
What I meant was wet steam, dry steam whatever after combustion takes place the heat goes into the water to make steam, up the flue or through the boiler jacket and into the basement.
If you read about commercial boilers they talk about "fuel to steam efficiency" that all there is. Whatever boiler converts the most fuel btus to lbs of steam (BTUs) the best is the most efficient boiler.
Re: shut off valves turn but don't work
Those Everflow valves are the cheaper ones that uses NBR seats (though they do sell a better version as well). Guarantee the rubber NBR seat has deteriorated. NBR comes in many different grades, but you'll get bottom of the barrel rubber with bottom of the barrel radiator valves.
I have customers come in to replace these valves all the time and when asked it's only been in use a year or two. The seat becomes so soft and it paints my finger black just rubbing it.
The better valves use EPDM or PTFE seats, and are usually not much more money (within the realm of imports). Wish no one ever stocked or sold those garbage NBR seated valves. There isn't even much of a cost difference. But some shops only look at price and not compare with quality. Goes for the installers as well I guess, but I believe for the most part none of them even look at the seat material when buying.
I have customers come in to replace these valves all the time and when asked it's only been in use a year or two. The seat becomes so soft and it paints my finger black just rubbing it.
The better valves use EPDM or PTFE seats, and are usually not much more money (within the realm of imports). Wish no one ever stocked or sold those garbage NBR seated valves. There isn't even much of a cost difference. But some shops only look at price and not compare with quality. Goes for the installers as well I guess, but I believe for the most part none of them even look at the seat material when buying.
dko
1
Re: Leaking air vents on steam baseboard raditors and banging noise in pipes
Insulating pipes can reduce banging and help with slow distribution if a system is plagued with premature condensate in a barely sufficiently pitched pipe somewhere. If steam has to spend time warming pipes and fighting condensate then insulation will help. It is not usually the underlying problem though.
Waher
1
Re: Older Weil McLain boiler; fire box corrosion
@mattmich
Send a message to @offdutytech he is in Michigan but may not be in your area. He may be able to recommend someone. He does excellent work. Steam pros are scarce in your area
Send a message to @offdutytech he is in Michigan but may not be in your area. He may be able to recommend someone. He does excellent work. Steam pros are scarce in your area
Re: Leaking air vents on steam baseboard raditors and banging noise in pipes
Less heat in the basement sounds like a positive resultIt is if you actually want less heat in the basement. But insulation won't affect banging or balance or anything else.
That vent you showed is not a Maid O Mist. A real Maid O Mist (not an imitation) is a fine vent.
