Best Of
Re: Steam Boiler swap savings
What @Waher said above. Much the best way to save. However, you should also check the pressure settings at which the boiler is operating. in most "normal" two pipe and all one pipe systems, the boiler pressure control should be set to cutout at between 1.5 and 2.0 psig, and cut back in at 1 psig lower. Any pressure higher than that is not helping your heating, but is burning fuel to no purpose.
Also check your main venting — if that is lacking, it may take longer than needed for steam to reach the radiators and do something useful.
Re: Electric Boiler Set to Heat only when Thermostat Calls
Unless you have a lot of BB or a high temperature staple up? I'm not sure you could run a single temperature system when fin tube and radiant mix.
Get them with 10- 12° of one another and it could work.
hot_rod
Re: C wire
@bjohnhy it's rolling dice. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't sign off on it. The little buggers have a mind of their own
GW
Re: Steam Boiler swap savings
at best 20%
Get a blower door test done. Find and fix the leaks. You might even get to 40% savings.
Will you ever see a return on investment………doubtful.
pecmsg
Re: Steam boiler water
"How they think anyone can accurately measure .5 of a ph is beyond me."
With the correct pH test strips you can measure to 0.1, with a decent pH meter you can measure to +/-0.002
Neild5
Re: Steam Boiler swap savings
Your current boiler is sized for 621 EDR. That’s a close match to your connected heating load. Better air vents on the steam mains and pipe insulation if you currently don’t have it are your only options for better efficiency boiler wise.
https://www.ecomfort.com/manuals/14fe6c73de2838c1d67edaf112b992ed.pdf
Waher
Re: C wire
The new Taco control ( -5 ) have a 20va transformer with the option to add another 20va transformer for these Nest and Ecobee power robbing t-stats.
With any metal cover ( older SR controls ) please make sure to wire Red & White wires per below and com to the com side of the 24vac/com terminal.
The SR502-503 metal cover, the Red lands on the left T and White lands on the right T.
The SR504 & SR506 metal cover is the opposite, Red lands on right T and White lands on Left T.
SteveSan
Re: Slant/Fin VSL-160C boiler - need replacing or not?
I can pretty much get them in a couple days.
The parts I find fail are the pressure sensor, the igniter/ flame rod and some of the burner insulation.
I have about 5-6 of these still running fine.
I also have had a few HX fail but imo if that fails replace the whole boiler.
kcopp
Re: 1207 logamatic burner won’t start
Looking at this drawing you may have cut two capillary tubes going to two separate bulbs in a well in the boiler (there may have been a reason there was no electrical connectors).
I was hoping what you called two wires were actually wires for a single temperature sensor, but now I'm not so hopeful. If they are actually wires, they probably would be two wires in each cable, and may be repairable. I would inspect what you cut very carefully.
You may need to replace items 35 and 36, minimum. Or the whole 2107 (if items 35 and 36 can not be obtained) and install it correctly.
109A_5
Re: 1207 logamatic burner won’t start
I would refer to your boiler's manual, you may be able to use a different aquastat if that is the route you choose. However that may be a whole different adventure requiring more work and down time and you may loose any unique benefits the 2107 provides.
109A_5