Best Of
Re: Help choosing a new boiler (Part 3 - the Results! and more questions :)
ODR is something that is beneficial to you. It can save about 15% on fuel and actually make the house more comfortable. All they have to do is install the outdoor sensor and properly adjust the reset curve.
When using it, you don’t want to be setting the thermostat up and down because the response time will be much longer and it will probably use more fuel. It’s old technology vs. new. You now have a boiler which modulates to match the load when properly set up. The old one was just 100% on or 100% off.
As mentioned, the mixing valve on the domestic needs to be adjusted to get hotter water.
Ironman
Re: flow issues, again
Your thoughts on starting with new water are spot on. Flush and purge the entire system and make sure you empty and clean the dirt mag.
You have valves that are off or throttled. Why? Open them and let it flow.
Your well water is of some concern. I am wondering if over time it has caused the debris that you show in the picture. And because it is a well, do you have enough water pressure to purge and clean the system? Find out what your water chemistry is and go from there.
Intplm.
Re: flow issues, again
if you suspect clogged components coated out emitters, etc.
Add a cleaner to what you have. Then you. Need a power flush, enough gpm to get a least 5 fps velocity in every pipe nd component. A good brand hydronic cleaner, not dishwasher soap.
Generally a 1/2 pump cart capable of 13 gpm, or so for residential systems.
By using a cart, you will see what, and how much flushes out. Also just keep the cleaner running through the pump cart at those high velocities. With a garden hose you are not running the cleaner across all the surfaces, over and over.
You want at least 3/4” hoses to connect into the system to get those flow rates.
For a DIYer a garbage pail and a 1/2 hp transfer pump, a spa pump, used pool pump, something that pushes good flowrates.
hot_rod
Re: Home heating boiler
I assume you're asking the pros and cons of leaving the makeup water inlet valve closed. That has been discussed here often. You'll find pros and cons in this earlier thread:
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1811311#Comment_1811311?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=makeup+water+valve
Re: Steam system building pressure too quickly. No vents in sight.
Doesn't look familiar. Where in CT are you?
Re: Gas Line Sizing - On Demand Water Heater
run 3/8”
Waste a lot of time to find out you needed larger.
The material is cheap, the labor about equal. Go ACR 5/8” Plumbers 1/2”.
pecmsg
Re: Taco Circulator Cartridges
Is there a part number on it?
There are several Taco Tech Support guys on here, They will know. @SteveSan is one of them
Re: Gas Line Sizing - On Demand Water Heater
Here is an excerpt from the model code for copper tube sizing for low pressure propane. It appears that they give size K & L pipe in the K & L line and tube size in the ACR line. They are the same size tubing, one is sized by OD and the other by nominal ID:
So it appears for 10' at 64,000 btu/hr you would need 1/2" od tubing assuming the manifold is large enough that the pressure drop under all loads in the manifold is negligible.
Re: Alternatives for Condensate Return Motor
56CZ frame indicates there's something OEM spec special about this motor, almost certainly the shaft. Maybe a different thread on the shaft, or a nut and key arrangement; who knows. Many pump OEMs like to use their own spec motor, and these are all, at least that I've seen, labeled 56CZ frame.
For this reason, I tend to avoid pumps with special frame motors like this whenever I can.
For your reference, I have attached basic 56J frame motor dimensions. Maybe yours is close enough that a standard 56J motor will work.
Many other pump manufacturers use 56J frame motors and their suction flange mounting stud dimensions are 2.75 X 5" which are a direct bolt on mount on your tank. These include SHIPCO, MEPCO / DUNHAM BUSH, RUSSELL, and the Xylem products Hoffman and Domestic.
Unfortunately these have become very expensive lately, and can have very long lead times.
If you really need this problem resolved quickly, I would do a search for PUMP REPAIRS in your area and see what they can do for you.
Back in my Nash service technician days, it was SOP for us to go to a job site and change a seal and bearings and get the pump back on line in a matter of hours.
Re: Seeking Guidance on Steam Boiler Issues (1928 Home with 1.95 Million BTU Weil-McLain)
I just saw your other thread, which has more information and better pictures.
It may be a good idea to merge the two, or close this one. -m


