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Re: Is there a two pipe steam doctor in the house?
Was the boilers riser size reduced ? I usually always do a 3 inch riser n header weather standard or drop. Usually I do this to guarantee the dryest steam is being produced which out dry steam the system never really performs as it should ,it will work and most due ,due to steam being very forgiving . Was the Honeywell pa404 pressuretroll removed n replaced w a vaporstat , was a 0-3 lb low pressure gauge installed or gauge in ounces installed . With out knowing the pressure you operating at it leads to guessing . All older system usually work better at low pressure and on old two pipe it usually helps ,hi pressure is going to show every bad trap leaking supply valve and nut . Low pressure is your friend . I know most guys would give first born over purchasing and installing a vaporstat on there dime if they didn’t include in pricing . Over the many years of being in the phvac business I ve learned one major thing when it come s to steam never be cheap on your near boiler piping and unless it under 100 k input always do over the minimum suggested header size ,on peerless over a 4 section it’s both tappings and no matter what 3 inch riser usually dry steam and mim issues . All aside was this boiler cleaned the old fashion way ,flushing ,wanding ,steam skimming and re flushing . Dirty water is in my eyes the most over looked issue being everybody excepts chemical to do it all and it doesn’t ,aside usually from what u see bad piping under sized headers and improper if no drips where there should be . Dry steam is what a steam system is looking for not wet and not at a high velocity . These are things piping do . Just some suggestions , low pressure also helps keep the steam out of the returns but is not going to fix bad traps but will stop water from being blown out of water seal type traps all food for thought .
Peace and good luck clammy
Peace and good luck clammy

1
Re: Is there a two pipe steam doctor in the house?
You are quite correct. There should be no pressure -- and certainly no steam -- in the dry returns. This suggests, though, that there are two separate problems. One is that somehow steam is getting into that dry return. A connection which shouldn't be there, a failed open radiator trap, a pair of drips to a wet return which isn't actually wet (too high -- above the water lien), a blown water seal (too much boiler pressure)... several possibilities.
It is likely that the presence of steam closed the main vent on that dry return which allowed the pressure buildup-- but... is there one? Is it functioning?
Go back to basics and take a look at everything -- and think like steam (which should be in the mains and radiators and nowhere else) and air (which has to get out of the radiators and then out of the dry return) and water (which has to get out of the radiators, into the dry return, and then through a drip to the wet return or boiler.
It is likely that the presence of steam closed the main vent on that dry return which allowed the pressure buildup-- but... is there one? Is it functioning?
Go back to basics and take a look at everything -- and think like steam (which should be in the mains and radiators and nowhere else) and air (which has to get out of the radiators and then out of the dry return) and water (which has to get out of the radiators, into the dry return, and then through a drip to the wet return or boiler.
Re: Is there a two pipe steam doctor in the house?
That main vent was probably not working. Put in a Gorton #2.
Also, the valve to the left of the Wiley Return Trap should be a check valve with the flow direction away from the Return Trap. See chapter 15 of "Lost Art" for the lowdown on how this works.
Also, the valve to the left of the Wiley Return Trap should be a check valve with the flow direction away from the Return Trap. See chapter 15 of "Lost Art" for the lowdown on how this works.
Re: Is there a two pipe steam doctor in the house?
What size boiler ? Is that a 3 inch riser or was it reduced? Was this boiler skimmed ,from the drop on the equilizer blocking the skim port i would think not . I see no provision where left to wand the boiler or drain all contents out of the boiler . Possible you have some carry over condensate from the boiler being possible dirty . Are you using a vapor stat as a pressure control or still the pa404 . As other may have asked is the a good low pressure gauge aside from the zero 30 gauge . I usually add nothing and just flush wand and skim boilers I ve installed , some times it takes 2 or 3 times to get all the crap out and at last I’ll add surge master when I’m sure it as clean as it can be just for the o2 and for slight corrosion protection and a great indicator of make up water when it ain’t green they have been adding make up . Follow what other have stated and if there using water seal type traps and graduated supply valve then it gotta be a vapor stat and and low pressure other wise you will be just chasing your tail like a puppy . Usually no part of a steam system I replace has any copper except the water line feeding it . Full port tees w bushing and ball valves for flushing and draining other wise it just glam .
Peace and good luck clammy
Peace and good luck clammy

1
Re: is a magnetic boiler filter necessary?
Having a mag sep anywhere in the piping will collect particles on the magnet.
I like them on the return before the boiler, so on the first fill and start they can catch solder balls, teflon tape, copper or steal ream chips, etc. Small particles 5 micron and smaller will take multiple passes to separate.
It is not a huge deal, if you can get it close to the boiler so much the better.
I like them on the return before the boiler, so on the first fill and start they can catch solder balls, teflon tape, copper or steal ream chips, etc. Small particles 5 micron and smaller will take multiple passes to separate.
It is not a huge deal, if you can get it close to the boiler so much the better.

1
Re: High Efficiency Boilers for Fan Coils?
The first step is to find the temperature the fan coils need. I agree with @bburb that 180 supply and 160 return will cover the building. And if I am not mistaken with Mod Cons 180 is maximum.
So the question becomes does it need that all the time? Probably not. But taking a bigger delta T to make the boilers condense (basically reducing the water flow) may not cover the building.
There are various ways and control to achieve what you want is to be able to provide the fan coils with 180/160 when it need it and reduce the supply temp when you need less heat so the boiler will condense.
We would need a lot more information and it is probably outside the range of forum members to size anything other than make some good suggestions
So the question becomes does it need that all the time? Probably not. But taking a bigger delta T to make the boilers condense (basically reducing the water flow) may not cover the building.
There are various ways and control to achieve what you want is to be able to provide the fan coils with 180/160 when it need it and reduce the supply temp when you need less heat so the boiler will condense.
We would need a lot more information and it is probably outside the range of forum members to size anything other than make some good suggestions
Re: Steamhead please help. Trane Vapor System driving me a little crazy.
@JohnNY , how did you make out with this?
Re: Best spin-on filter lubricant
X2…never had a leak. If you do get one stuck on, don’t use a filter wrench. Pliers on the rim and use the housing as leverage to rotate the filter a 1/2” at a time until you can unscrew by hand.
Re: Indirect Radiators
@New England SteamWorks - spoke to the foundry, they're happy to sell the sections. Email me with details?