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Re: Elevated CO on burner tune up
By impinging do you mean any contact with the combustion chamber? in this case I do not see that.
. Impinging is when a droplet of oil comes in contact with an object before the droplet is completely vaporized. Oil will not burn in the liquid state, so those tiny droplets must evaporate completely. Since the flame is over 2000° those tiny droplets evaporate quickly. However, if some of those droplets hit the cold cast iron (maybe 300° because there is 180° water on the other side of the cast iron) or the combustion chamber. (maybe 600° to 1200° that is reflecting the heat back onto the flame) before the droplet is completely evaporated, then that droplet will not completely burn. Even with extra air, you will not get that oil to completely burn.
You may have noticed carbon deposits on some end cones or retention heads over the years of oil burner service. That carbon build up is incomplete combustion of. the fuel and the leftover carbon sticking to that colder (compared to the 2000° flame) surface. Then the next droplet does the same thing, and it builds up over time. If you let that go unchecked you can have 6 months of burning OK, then poorly, then all of a sudden the build up carbon catches a greater portion of the fuel and you get the burner to make a #10 smoke and you get a plugged boiler in about 30 minutes of operation. So 6 months… then the last 30 minutes is a disaster.
On those WM SGO and WGO boilers, it is not easy to see the flame as it exits the burner. But you can see the flame in the chamber and they are usually several inches away from impinging on anything. An incorrect Z dimension on the Beckett burner with the incorrect nozzle spray angle may be impinging at the retention cone.
And Yes... that is a interesting App Steve. Wish I had it before I retired.
Re: Help Identifying Valve
The pictures I posted was of my best looking valve. Most of the others are rusted and corroded so that is where the water is dripping from. I'm fairly certain they require replacement. I'll post pictures of them later this evening when I'm home.
SunRad
2
Re: This weeks case, Replacing a steam boiler at my kids school What would you do?
@jumper I sized the hydronic boilers by doing a heat loss on the hydronic wing and double checked my calcs by comparing the steam to water heat exchanger size and the pump gpm. I sized the steam load by adding all the univents together and added 15% for the piping. I used Triad vertical fire tube boilers. I piped the steam boiler output into the existing horizontal header. I used swing check valves on the steam boiler piping to isolate the boilers.
@ethicalpaul LOL thanks. The committee was really concerned with backup. The old solo boiler had failed numerous times causing school to be cancelled.
@ethicalpaul LOL thanks. The committee was really concerned with backup. The old solo boiler had failed numerous times causing school to be cancelled.
Re: How to test which wire is R and W in a 2 wire only thermostat?
The T87 and the T8775 are different stats.. op is talking about the T8775, not sure how the T87 even came into the discussion.
T8775 has a digital display, has no battery backup and is indeed power stealing.
When we mention T87 now, we should be talking about the current edition and not the discontinued mercury one unless specifically mentioned. The current T87K is also technically power stealing, but battery assisted(CR2450).
T8775 has a digital display, has no battery backup and is indeed power stealing.
When we mention T87 now, we should be talking about the current edition and not the discontinued mercury one unless specifically mentioned. The current T87K is also technically power stealing, but battery assisted(CR2450).
dko
1
Re: Buderus Logamatic: house overheating w/ random DHW PROD ERROR
If you put it to manual, lower the left dial to 140° because that's the operating control and will now be the indirect tank temperature. So be careful.
Ohm out the tank sensor.
Check amps on the indirect circulator. Is the indirect loop air locked?
Is there freeze protection or circulator exercising? If the indirect isn't heating properly, it might "time out" on priority and switch to the above functions, causing the space to over heat.
Ohm out the tank sensor.
Check amps on the indirect circulator. Is the indirect loop air locked?
Is there freeze protection or circulator exercising? If the indirect isn't heating properly, it might "time out" on priority and switch to the above functions, causing the space to over heat.
HVACNUT
1
Re: Help! Ubearable noise from Taco Hydronic Circulation Pump
That's not normal. Not even close to it. May be running dry, spring coupler could be bad, impeller bearings could be dry or shot, motor bearings could be bad. Plumber needs to take another look and have the repair parts and time to fix it.
Re: This weeks case, Replacing a steam boiler at my kids school What would you do?
Thank you all sirs! Here is the link to the new video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ty6UfzToebc
Lots of great ideas and some wise points. Here was my solution. Since the school was worried about backup, I used two smaller steam boilers for the steam side and two smaller hydronic boilers for the hydronic side. We left the heat exchanger in place because they weren't sure we would need it. We never did. The school dropped their fuel costs dramatically because we were able to operate the new steam boilers at 2 psi and reset the hydronic loop. I did learn a valuable lesson on this project. Once you touch it, you own it. Every heating issue in the school from then on was blamed on my boilers. It could be a defective pneumatic thermostat or a defective blower on a unit ventilator, I was blamed. I can't even count the times I heard, "We never had this problem before you changed the boilers."
I wish I had listened to @DanHolohan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ty6UfzToebcLots of great ideas and some wise points. Here was my solution. Since the school was worried about backup, I used two smaller steam boilers for the steam side and two smaller hydronic boilers for the hydronic side. We left the heat exchanger in place because they weren't sure we would need it. We never did. The school dropped their fuel costs dramatically because we were able to operate the new steam boilers at 2 psi and reset the hydronic loop. I did learn a valuable lesson on this project. Once you touch it, you own it. Every heating issue in the school from then on was blamed on my boilers. It could be a defective pneumatic thermostat or a defective blower on a unit ventilator, I was blamed. I can't even count the times I heard, "We never had this problem before you changed the boilers."
I wish I had listened to @DanHolohan
Re: Buderus Logamatic: house overheating w/ random DHW PROD ERROR
This is a guess -- but it almost sounds as though there is a problem in the control with a relay (and I'm not even sure there is one, but...) which is supposed to switch from the circulators for the heat to DHW priority getting stuck. Relays do that. Try this (I know it sounds bizarre, but it's an old country trick): when you find the system misbehaving again, try giving the control a sharp whack and see what happens...
Re: Does a leaking valve need replacement?
The Gorton vent, if turned upside down, will reduce -- by a lot -- the amount of heat you get. However... they aren't meant to be turned frequently -- they will start to leak where they are threaded into the radiator. For that matter, the service valve -- the one you are working with -- isn't meant to be used to regulate heat, either, just turn it off for service. But it is easy to fix the leak -- as @EBEBRATT-Ed said, just repack the valve stem. Doesn't take long.
Re: Does a leaking valve need replacement?
Super needs to take the valve handle off and loosen the packing nut and repack the valves stem. That will stop the leak. The packing dries out over time. He can use Teflon tape twisted up. Then put the valve handle back on. Perhaps a smaller adjustable air vent like a "vent rite" would be a better choice.
