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Re: Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1826260#Comment_1826260

Your statement makes no sense. The boiler rating in sq ft accounts for the pickup factor. So adding in:

"Steam ratings are based on the connected radiator EDR and does not account for any pickup factor." would be a factually incorrect statement.

KC_Jones

2

Re: Pump Size

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1826169#Comment_1826169

The primary issue that needs solving is flow, which p/s will definitely solve

GGross

2

Re: Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR

So, is the 996 sq ft rating on the 64-08 actually 749 sq ft when you take out the pickup factor?
My EDR is 332 sq ft, but a radiator was removed at some point by a previous owner that I would like to reinstall. This will likely take the system to 360 sq ft. Would the Peerless 63-04L rated at 383 sq ft be ok? My current boiler is rated at 479 sq ft.

Paul posted an excellent chart for the Peerless 64 above.

Take a look at "gross output" for the 64-08. You will see 318 for steam. This is the output after the combustion efficiency is included in the data. You lose 81 KBTU out the chimney.

Now look at the "net ratings" for steam. You will see 239. The manufacturer assumes that you will need 33% additional capacity so they rate the boiler at only 239 KBTU despite the fact that its output is actually 318. The 33% reduction has been a bone of contention around here for years.

If it were me, I'd use the 63-03. 98 KBTU yields 408 sq ft. You'd have a pickup factor of 48 sq.ft (360 EDR)…………..12%. Plenty if you insulate the piping and install it per the manual. It will never cycle on pressure.

LRCCBJ

4

Re: Severely corroded steam boiler

I am happy to stick my neck out here. Based on what's pictured I'm going to say, not only is it oversized, it's comically oversized. I'd Bet money there is no more than 350 sq ft of radiation in that house. If that's the case they should have installed the GSA-125, the GSA-150 at the absolute maximum.

Do you have pictures of the installation of the new boiler? I ask only to see if they installed it correctly. The sizing is super easy, so if they can't get that part correct, I have doubts about getting the installation correct.

Agree with above, there is plenty of talent listed on this site for NY, some of the best in the business in fact.

KC_Jones

1

Re: Gas Boiler Question

I might compose a letter if I were you, that indicates that the contractor did not install the boiler according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then report this poorly installed job to the state licensing folks. When a contractor gets a letter from the State licensing people, the contractor listens.

You can do this yourself at very little cost to yourself.

EdTheHeaterMan

2

Re: Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR

You can easily run hot water from the steam boiler through the baseboard

ethicalpaul

2

Re: Is it OK to completely close a valve?

That's actually a rather hard question to answer. Theoretically, of course, the answer is yes. However, that answer comes with a caution: the valve must, in fact, close completely. A new valve is likely to do that. An older valve — particularly one which has been in use in steam service for quite some time — is very likely to not do that.

Why is this an issue? Because a valve which does not truly close completely will allow some steam into the radiator — a small amount, most likely, but some — and that will condense in the radiator. The trouble is — that condensate may very well not be able to get out the way it got in. Valves tend to be tighter against liquids than they are against gases. Not that the radiator will fill completely — but enough condensate may accumulate to cause some noise problems.

On the whole it is probably better to keep a one pipe radiator from heating — much — by closing its vent. That won't turn it off completely, but it will keep it from developing all that much heat.