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Re: Is it OK to completely close a valve?
That's actually a rather hard question to answer. Theoretically, of course, the answer is yes. However, that answer comes with a caution: the valve must, in fact, close completely. A new valve is likely to do that. An older valve — particularly one which has been in use in steam service for quite some time — is very likely to not do that.
Why is this an issue? Because a valve which does not truly close completely will allow some steam into the radiator — a small amount, most likely, but some — and that will condense in the radiator. The trouble is — that condensate may very well not be able to get out the way it got in. Valves tend to be tighter against liquids than they are against gases. Not that the radiator will fill completely — but enough condensate may accumulate to cause some noise problems.
On the whole it is probably better to keep a one pipe radiator from heating — much — by closing its vent. That won't turn it off completely, but it will keep it from developing all that much heat.
Re: Massive Corrosion on 10 year unit, What Next
that's pretty bad , , ,
could you post a picture of the header and piping above that boiler?
floor to ceiling

Re: Flue condensation after boiler replacement
Sounds like it's over-radiated and needs either a bypass or p/s because the thermostat is being satisfied before the boiler can reach temp

Re: Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR
No, I mean no rules.
He's starting from scratch engineering a steam heat system, no knowledge of anything heating related.
I'm betting he wouldn't want the boiler producing more steam than the condensers can handle.

Re: Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR
no one wants to be cold.
I do, at least on the coldest day of the year. That's how I know my system is sized right. Cold is curable (within reason) with a sweater and/or a comforter.
Re: New Combi Boiler: Incorrect Setup / Not Efficient?
Most inspectors don’t understand hydronic piping concepts. They’re usually looking for a relief valve, a backflow preventer, and proper vent piping.
Where are you located?

Re: Flue condensation after boiler replacement
This^^^. The flue has nothing to do with it. This does, however, need to be addressed, as that is a very good boiler — but it won't last long under those conditions.
Re: Sq ft of steam:sq ft of EDR
I started to write a longish commentary on this — that is, some of the considerations for sub atmospheric steam systems — but rapidly realised that it was getting long — even for me!
While there are indeed some advantages to operating a steam system at such pressures, there are also some major problems associated with it. Most of them revolve around establishing the initial pressures required and then maintaining them while at the same time preventing loss of refrigerant (water) and preventing the entrance of non-condensibles (air). This is no mean feat even for conventional heat pump systems (heat pumps, air conditioners, refrigerators, what have you) which operate well above atmospheric pressure.
On balance, the complexities which are added would not outweigh the advantages to be gained.
However, that is not to say that a small efficiency gain could be made in one of two ways is systems were designed to operate part of the time at subatmospheric pressures. One would be to have the boiler operating at condensing temperatures for some or all of the time after the initial firing in a cycle. I haven't worked out whether the cycle would need to be long enough to entirely fill the system with steam, however. If that were true, there would be no real advantage. The other is that forcing the system to drop subatmospheric at the end of a cycle would enable transferring the residual heat in the boiler to the target space. This second can be done in any two pipe steam system which is piped using crossover traps and a single main vent by the simple expedient of making the main vent (or vents) Hoffman #76 vents — which are still made. Some folks have also suggested accomplishing the same objective by placing a low cracking pressure check valve before a regular vent (the cracking pressure, however, has to be very low). Either of these methods will work. There is a question of is it worth it, monetarily? Both #76 vents and low cracking pressure checks do not come cheap, so one needs to look at how much energy can be recovered this way. In the days of large high mass boilers, and particularly in the days of coal fires, which don't just turn off, the answer was —-a significant amount, with the result that such systems, while not common, weren't that unusual. Today, however, the amount of heat stored in a modern boiler is, in relation to the overall system, almost trivial.
Re: Massive Corrosion on 10 year unit, What Next
If it were a minor leak and you could clean out the corrosion plugging the sections you could probably get another season out of it but someone has already gotten that out of this so there really is no way you can safely operate this.

Re: Please comment on a boiler re-install
@dronic123 , where are you located? We might know someone who can help……………