Best Of
Re: New boiler, new pipe banging.
Installed incorrectly
I see three things wrong just for starters.
Re: First time doing heat load calc: Whoa, is my boiler 2x oversized?
@seized123 … this is called overthinking…. You have all the information you need…. a WM or Williamson will use the same footprint as the old one. The pipe connections will be near identical. You want to save on installation costs and you can DIY this one. You don't expect to be there after 4 years so any extra you spend to get a lower operating cost will be for someone else's benefit. So what is holding you up? After you get sticker shock from the EK estimate. Order the boiler and put it in. By the time anybody needs to make a warranty claim, you will be long gone and the plumber that the new homeowner calls will do all the necessary paperwork to get the warranty claim handled. No one will ask if a homeowner installed it in 5 or 10 years.
If you have a DOA boiler or accessory part, when you open it up, then you go to the supplier and work with them. It is against the law to sell you something that is clearly non functional without some kind of guarantee by the manufacturer that it will operate when installed according the the manufacturer's instructions. Just be sure to follow the instructions. They are online, so you can get familiar with them before you even purchase one.
If you show us a photo of your existing WGO, we can tweak any changes you might want to make. You can decide to replace all the accessories or use all the accessories that exist and replace only those that you may find defective as time goes on. I believe the new WM will come with the HydroStat with the built in LWCO so you done even need to get a new one of those. (LWCO is the only thing I would replace when doing a "push pull" even if it was only a few years old).
Hope this helps to push you off the fence.
Mr. Ed
Re: Sanitary sewer pipe thru box culvert?
Your suggestion of grading in the culvert will alter its hydraulic capacity — as well as almost guaranteeing that your pipe will be washed away by anything much over a 10 year storm. Quit dodging reality.
Re: Tubing type
ASTM F876 and ASTM F877 are standards for PEX tubing.
Is this in Canada?
Re: Logamatic Alternative
I have customers who have changed the 2107 to both the L7224U and the Hydrostat 3250. Neither boiler has any problems and both run perfectly. The boiler with the Hydrostat is power vented with a field controls unit, the one with the L7224U has a stainless steel chimney. Both are on high temperature heating systems with indirect water heaters and don't utilize outdoor reset.
Re: Water heat zone running continuously
Try removing a wire from the Nest - either one - and see if the zone still calls for heat. If it does continue to call for heat, there's something wrong with the wiring. If the heating is off, it could be the thermostat.
Re: Steam Heater - Pipes and Heater is rust on new Boiler
Is this a slant fin boiler? What is the manufacturer date on the boiler? How long ago did Slant Fin close its doors?
Re: Masonry Chimney repair vs. vented vs. ventless gas log
Gas fireplace with a stainless-steel liner in the chimney.
pecmsg
Re: Weil McLain steam boiler and water treatment
Probably shouldn't have said "unfortunately". However, the point is this: the buffer range of the 8 way seems to be from 10 to 10.5. What that means, however, is that the concentration of 8 way — the amount present in the water or initially put in — can vary over an extremely wide range, but the pH will stay in that narrow range. This is why buffers are so handy! But also why they are pesky — once there is any significant concentration of a buffer system in the water, that's the pH range you are going to have. If it's what you want, you are delighted. If it's not what you want, you are left with no choice but to get rid of the buffer system and start over…
Re: Banging Radiators at start up
Really important to distinguish between a water hammer and expansion — and can be hard to do! The pinging type noises you mention are, more likely than not, expansion — but locating what is sticking and slipping can be tricky. A louder bang type noise is likely to be water hammer.
Both can happen on warm up — and disappear once the system is heated up.
Worse, both can "telegraph: through the piping, making the actual source difficult to find. All that mumbo-jumbo aside, I'm thinking that if you do have water hammer type banging, it's worse on the radiators with shared risers, and that it is because one or both of the in-floor runouts to each pair is either not sloped enough, or sloped in the wrong direction and accumulating a small amount of condensate as it warms up. If they really are arranged connected by a T with a riser coming in the leg and the runouts on the cross, it's almost inevitable.