Best Of

Please post several pictures of your boiler — the front with controls, but several from all sides which show the piping and how it connects to the rest of the heating system. Can you also take one of at least one radiator and post that?

I'm going to bet that you have a gravity hot water system — but until we see the pictures, we really can't say. I will say that if that is what you have, they work splendidly — but you have to have a contractor who really knows what he or she is doing to get them to do so. Where are you located? We may know someone in your area we could recommend.

We really need pictures, but if it has a temperature/pressure gauge and there’s no sight glass, that sounds like a hot water boiler.

Post a pic or two of one or two of your radiators from far enough back that the entire radiator and its piping can be seen.

Some of the most common issues in programming a controller with outdoor reset is changing the OUT DESIGN to a temperature that is colder than it actually reaches in that area to make the system work "faster" or "better" when in reality it is better to go the other way to achieve a higher supply water temperature for the radiant floor at colder temps.

For example, you say outside design is -30 and water temp design is set for 140. The radiant system will only "see" 140 degrees when it reaches -30. The rest of the entire winter, the water temperature will be less warm.

So in essence, if you are not heating the house today, change the outside design temp to something warmer to get a target temp of 140 earlier.

Now, the designed water temperature is a function of the heat loss and the installation method of the radiant system as well as insulation values and finished floor coverings. There are limitations to max water temperatures, installation methods and floor coverings.