Best Of
Re: Equalizer Return
@clammy can't say I agree 100%. I certainly agree that everyone should be installing proper equalizers. But it is equally important to understand what things do and how and why they work. This conversation is purely hypothetical, but it certainly enhances our understanding. Open minds are awesome.
Re: Old oil fired boiler for hot water baseboard
If you believe that you are going to close on this home, do not abandon the hot water heating system, most folks that do that, in favor of a hot air furnace and ductwork in order to also get central air conditioning, regret that choice. Hot air furnace heat is less comfortable than hot water baseboard heat. Many homes like yours dod not have the natural gas option in 1955, but it may be available today. When it comes time for the new boiler, look at both Oil and Gas options. You may also save on electricity if you have an indirect water heater added to your new high efficiency boiler.
The old American Standard may have several years left, so I wouldn't let the age of the boiler make you decide to go elsewhere. And the scorch mark is from a long time ago when the chimney was blocked. The oil burner repair man cleaned the blockage and the problem is gone. They never cleaned up the scorch mark. You can do that when you move in.
Re: Boiler Replacement Quote
Have to ask the most obvious question. You had Steamhead in your house. Why are you calling the Steam Tails for estimates?
Re: Weil McClain Natural Gas Hot Water Boiler
You can try looking for contractors certified in combustion from the National Comfort Institute.
mattmia2
Re: pro press on baseboard
They say not to press the thin baseboard tubing which make "M" tubing look thick. Many have done it without issue. If it was me I would solder it anyhow.
Re: Oil boiler will not engage at all
Ah… that box is a safety to prevent the boiler from firing if there is insufficient water. Your pressure gauge seems to indicate you have pressure — but they have been known to lie.
I would stop trying to fire the boiler by overriding that safety, and find out if there really is enough water in the boiler — and if there is, why the safety thinks there isn't. And then fix the problem. Dry firing a boiler never ends well…
I might add that a chronic leak, cold or hot, is not something to ignore (unless you are an SR=71) and should get fixed before you try to run the system again.
Re: Need to replace corroded supply to radiator
As far as the radiator piping goes your correct the water will take the path of least resistance so if you undersize the pex to much you may not get heat in that radiator and will create a balancing issue.
Since it is 1 1/4 now I would use at least 1". You could also use 1 1/4" copper tubing. I am assuming you don't want to use black pipe you could find a plumbing supply that could cut the pipe for you. Big box store can if they have some one who knows how to use the pipe machine correctly.
Re: Controlling zone valves for a boiler/chiller system?
Um.. may I humbly point out that if you are leasing the space, anything you do must be approved by your landlord, who may have his or her own ideas…
Re: Where to add air vents
Point C would be fine for the vent, but don't think that plug is coming out with some toy wrench. As Ethical alludes, your last radiator will be venting a bit extra pipe, so you may want a larger vent on it if the system can handle it.
Do take note though that water hammering and water issuing from radiators indicates problems that won't be solved by piping a couple of main vents.
